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    <title type="text">Hearth.com Forum</title>
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    <rights>Copyright (c) 2008</rights>
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    <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:05:13</id>


    <entry>
      <title>will wood season in the shade&#63;</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/17989/" />      
      <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/.17989</id>
      <published>2008-05-11T11:57:17Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>leakypuppy</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>I&#8217;m assuming it will but I have no available sunny location in my yard so I really have no other choice.&nbsp; I&#8217;ve got two cords sitting now in separate locations; one gets some good afternoon sun but the other gets very little.&nbsp; Both spots offer good air flow.&nbsp;  I&#8217;m sure this will delay the seasoning process but is it still OK?
</p>
<p>
thanks,
</p>
<p>
-jim
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Stubborn woodburners Inc. (aka what to do with punky wood)&#63;</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/18005/" />      
      <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/.18005</id>
      <published>2008-05-12T07:16:54Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>Jay H</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>I&#8217;m sure a lot of you are in the same boat, I split this monster round, about 36&#8221; wide this weekend with my gas splitter and it&#8217;s just above the trunk of the tree. Since it was kind of low on the tree, it was somewhat punky, some of the wood was OK except it was infested with Carpenter Ants and these 2"+ long grub looking things making bore holes everywhere. Now I was crushing the grub things with my pulk hook but I went ahead and split the whole round and put the good non-punky wood in my woodpile and quaranteed the solid but infested wood and chucked out the punky soft stuff.&nbsp;  Now I&#8217;m thinking perhaps since I&#8217;m not burning now, if I could simply drown the splits in a garbage can with water, it will suffocate kill any worms and ants in the split.&nbsp;  Let it sit there for a bit, then perhaps put it in a quarantee pile where I can burn it first thing in season, or have a big outdoor fire in a firepit or something, bring it car camping.. whatever&#8230;    
</p>
<p>
I don&#8217;t mind burning insects and ants, just that don&#8217;t want those bugs infesting the woodpile. I have enough wood for the upcoming winter and probably most of next but I still have a ton of logs sitting here&#8230;    
</p>
<p>
Jay
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Small Gas stove for bedroom questions</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/18015/" />      
      <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/.18015</id>
      <published>2008-05-12T12:45:52Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>RISurfer20</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>I may be possibly interested in a small gas stove for my 300 square foot bedroom.&nbsp; I heat my home with the wood stove but sometimes the 3rd floor does get a little chilly during those cold nights. I figure a small gas stove would heat my room and possibly the other bedroom located on the 3rd floor. I do have lp gas which would make it easy for a small gas stove to be installed. Does anyone recommend an inexpensive gas stove? How much lp gas does these gas stoves use?
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Annual unit shipments of wood stoves/inserts</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/18013/" />      
      <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/.18013</id>
      <published>2008-05-12T12:00:50Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>ControlFreak</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Does anyone have any data showing the annual shipments of cordwood appliances sold into the US over the past few years?
</p>
<p>
Thanks,
</p>
<p>
Dan
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>wood seasoning for next burning season</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/18035/" />      
      <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/.18035</id>
      <published>2008-05-13T01:07:51Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>jeffman3</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>OK I did a search an didn&#8217;t find the answer I was needing. I have an opportunity to cut a bunch of locust and some other hard wood of unknown type (maybe Hack berry or Linden) , but it is green at the local tree dump. My question is, if cut and split this will it be ready by next October? Or should I concentrate on the downed elm (4 years ago) I have available at a grater distance. I only have storage for 3 1/2 cord here at the house. I&#8217;m hoping it will be enough for next season. what do you think, cut local and save gas or drive 25 miles, (or a bit more, I&#8217;m guessing) and get the downed elm?
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>anyone know of a source in Maine for biobricks or enviblocks&#63;</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/13475/" />      
      <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/.13475</id>
      <published>2008-01-06T14:55:08Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>mbk2000</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Has to be delivered.&nbsp; I found one place in Vermont but they want $500.00 pallet-delivered.&nbsp; I&#8217;ll fire up the furnace before I pay that much.&nbsp; I&#8217;ve tried everywhere I can think of.&nbsp; Anyone?&nbsp;  <img src="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/smileys/cheese.gif" width="19" height="19" alt="cheese" style="border:0;" />
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>First Week with Regency&#45; Review.</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/16810/" />      
      <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/.16810</id>
      <published>2008-03-25T11:56:53Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>shawnmd</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Well i have just finished my first week with my new Regency F2400M.&nbsp; The stove has a blower, ash tray and cast legs.&nbsp; It is in our basement connected to a new outside masonery/stainless steel lined chimney.&nbsp; As seen in another post, I was a little worried at first with the slow lighting and such but it turned out to be wet wood.&nbsp; Fortunately, the wood was only damp and a few days in the house it dried out quick. Obervations---- man this thing eats wood.&nbsp; I tried to keep the stove around 400-500 degrees which created alot of heat, but melted the wood in only a few hours.&nbsp; However, the fire would last all night, turned down a little, and would leave just enough hot ashe for a quick restart in the morning.&nbsp; I also find the firebox a litle small, especially when ashes build up. I am used to my fathers 25 year old resolute acclaim which seems to have more capacity. I also liked the top loader on the resolute better, but the front loader isn&#8217;t that bad.
<br />
Concerning the plate steel on this stove compared to the cast iron on the resolute, not much difference other than the fact that the resolute seemed to hold its heat longer after fire went out.&nbsp; I find once the fire is out on the Regency, the heat dissipates pretty fast.
<br />
Overall I&#8217;m pretty satisfied with the stove.&nbsp; Even in the basement, with only the basement door open, the rest of the house stays at 22 degrees celsius, and the oil furnace isn&#8217;t firing.
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Cast iron vs. Steel.&amp;nbsp; Observations from a local RI sweep&#8230;</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/18034/" />      
      <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/.18034</id>
      <published>2008-05-12T23:39:05Z</published>
      <updated>2008-05-12T23:51:03Z</updated>
      <author><name>gibson</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>This is from the site of a local chimney sweep who also sells Country Stoves and PE.&nbsp; Interesting commentary on cast iron vs. steel.
</p>
<p>
Moderators or others with experience please advise.
</p>
<p>
Thanks.
</p>
<p>
<a href="http://www.stoveguide.net/">http://www.stoveguide.net/</a>
</p>
<p>
Edit:&nbsp; There is a similar post in early april that addresses this.&nbsp; Should have looked before I asked...I guess I am becoming like my wife!
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Jotul c550 Rockland vs. Avalon Olympic</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/18028/" />      
      <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/.18028</id>
      <published>2008-05-12T19:07:07Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>Rocky Reid</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>Tomorrow I am going to pull the trigger on one of these inserts. My wife likes the flat appearance of the Rockland. I like the greater BTU&#8217;s and lower emissions of the Olympic. But review info on the Rockland is very sparse. Does anyone here burn a Jotul Rockland and if so what is the verdict? I previously posted in this forum about my 2700sf colonial I want to warm up. Ang help deciding would be appreciated.
</p>
<p>
ps&#8230; the fireplace this insert is on one side of the house. Depending on how heating goes this next winter, I might put a small insert in the fireplace on the other side of the house.
</p>
      ]]>
      </content>
    </entry>

    <entry>
      <title>Turning insulated chimney in attic as quickly as possible</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/18016/" />      
      <id>tag:hearth.com,2008:econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/.18016</id>
      <published>2008-05-12T12:54:39Z</published>
      <updated></updated>
      <author><name>Webmaster</name></author>
      <content type="html">
      <![CDATA[
        <p>We have a steep roof and a stove that is going near the eve - so we want to the chimney to jog over as far as possible inside the attic before exiting.....
</p>
<p>
Problem is that the ceiling support box I saw says to go up 18&#8221; with a straight pipe min. That means the first 30 degree can only be installed way up there.
</p>
<p>
Anyone have any experience with this? Maybe one brand allows turning before another, or perhaps by making a custom or cutting down an attic insulation shield I could turn sooner.
</p>
<p>
Turning as low as possible is important because the chimney can only slope 30 degrees, which the roof slopes 45 (12/12), so unless I start low, the two will &#8220;meet&#8221; before I get too high up in the attic.
</p>
<p>
While we are at it, any math whiz want to tell me how much closer together two lines - one at 30 degrees and one at 45, get together for each foot of run? Example: The lines start with 3 feet in between them.....how far is the run til they meet?
</p>
      ]]>
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    </entry>


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