My new cat VC Encore’s thermostat handle stays at full open OK (about 20 minutes before the hour on a clock face) and stays straight down - OK, .....but in between it slips to the straight down position. And it looks like I’m gonna need those in between thermostat positions to run a good hot fire next winter.

Is there an easy way to tighten up the tension of the thermostat handle? Thanks!

There should be a set screw at the base of the handle. Did you try tightening up this screw?

Sorry...I meant to say that it’s not just the handle. it’s the handle, AND the cable, AND the primary air shutter! The entire mechanism is sliding shut!

There is a spring on the thermostat that should counter the weight of the shutter and keep the handle in place. If there is not enough tension on the spring, the way to adjust is to loosen the allen bolt on the handle stem and push out more of the stem through the side of the stove and re-attach the handle. Unfortunately you’ll need to remove the right wear plate inside the stove and push the assembly from inside the firebox. Not really difficult to do but if it is under warranty might as well have the dealer come out and do it.

Instead of pushing from the inside,,,,,why can’t just grab the ‘bolt’ sticking out from the stove and pull it out more?

cmcramer - 14 May 2008 06:08 AM

Instead of pushing from the inside,,,,,why can’t just grab the ‘bolt’ sticking out from the stove and pull it out more?

That won’t work because the tension is kept by the friction between the nickel coated handle and the cast side of the stove. You won’t be able to grab the shaft because the handle will be in the way. The handle itself contains the set screw.

It really is easy to remove the inner right side wear plate. Yes, you could have the dealer take care of it. But you could also just get out a 7/16” wrench (a socket and ratchet works best) and remove the two bolts that hold he side wear plate in place. The plate is gasketed and will remove easily from the side of the stove. The air control and tension spring will be clearly accessible. Once done with your re-tension adjustment, just put the wear plate back. Check that the gaskets are in place, using a little gasket cement if needed. Snug up the bolts, being careful not to over-tighten. Done.

This is assuming you have the current model. If you have the original 0028/2140 do not remove the wear plate. Instead, remove the small cover from the top right side, covering the back of the thermostat control. Careful, these bolts are notorious for breaking off. Also, this cover is cemented, not gasketed.

Sean

Thanks Sean, and will do!

seaken - 14 May 2008 02:23 PM

cmcramer - 14 May 2008 06:08 AM

Instead of pushing from the inside,,,,,why can’t just grab the ‘bolt’ sticking out from the stove and pull it out more?

That won’t work because the tension is kept by the friction between the nickel coated handle and the cast side of the stove. You won’t be able to grab the shaft because the handle will be in the way. The handle itself contains the set screw.

It really is easy to remove the inner right side wear plate. Yes, you could have the dealer take care of it. But you could also just get out a 7/16” wrench (a socket and ratchet works best) and remove the two bolts that hold he side wear plate in place. The plate is gasketed and will remove easily from the side of the stove. The air control and tension spring will be clearly accessible. Once done with your re-tension adjustment, just put the wear plate back. Check that the gaskets are in place, using a little gasket cement if needed. Snug up the bolts, being careful not to over-tighten. Done.

This is assuming you have the current model. If you have the original 0028/2140 do not remove the wear plate. Instead, remove the small cover from the top right side, covering the back of the thermostat control. Careful, these bolts are notorious for breaking off. Also, this cover is cemented, not gasketed.

Sean

Inner right side wear plate not so easy to remove...for me. Two bolts out, wedge that helps tighten wear plate lifted out, wear plate is now loose. Can it be wiggled free and lifted out?  Top of plate blocked by underside of griddle lip; back of plate blocked by cat flapper; front of plate blocked by inside of front door; bottom will not wiggle out far enough.........Are you sure the TOP does not have to come off ?  If so, I’m calling the dealer!

The throat hood (what you referred to as the “cat flapper") and the right wedge that secures the lower fireback are all you should have to remove before the right wear plate can be removed.  You may need to pry the forward edge of the wear plate if it is stubborn. The top does not need to come off.

redhat - 18 May 2008 12:33 AM

The throat hood (what you referred to as the “cat flapper") and the right wedge that secures the lower fireback are all you should have to remove before the right wear plate can be removed.  You may need to pry the forward edge of the wear plate if it is stubborn. The top does not need to come off.

I’ll certainly take another look - as soon as the stove cools down! It’s taking the chill off today’s low 50’s.........and feels GREAT!

But...I’m still imagining the ‘axle’ portion of the throat hood resting upon two half inch nubs sticking out from the fireback.....and while the throat hood can be lifted out.....those nubs certainly cannot. And so the back edge of the right wear plate is gonna clear those half inch nubs ? 

I’ll try again, and thanks for the advice.