So I’ve been using a electric chainsaw (Remmington 4 hp, 18” bar) for over a year.  I just made the switch to the Stihl 290 with a 16” bar.  What a difference!  I knew it would be better, but not this good.  Plus, whenever I have a problem, I refer to the manual.  The manual is spot on with its solutions.  (How to deal with a flooded engine, effectiveness of sharpening the chain, etc.)

I’m still learning how to use this thing properly.  Most of what I cut is less than 20”.  I find that tinkering and learning about the saw still consumes a lot of time (maybe because I have a respect for it) Any advice for a beginner to gas power?

Start slow and for the most part the trees will lean the way they will go.  Also have a few wedges and either an ax or a small sledge to hit them in with.  This goes above the whole protective equipment you always need.
Chad

Stihl has a good one hour video on selecting, using, maintaining a saw. It is $5 + shipping. I am told they also have it available on their website to download for free.

Baileys has several good books.

Chainsaw Manual training book by APA, mid 80’s, is great on falling and hinging techniques, although some of it is geared to softwood logging that is now mechanized.

k

99. remember the most important thing . one wrong slip , and you will bleed to death befor you can get a signal on your cell phone.  hearing protection . eye protection . face shield ( even if you have trouble spitting on it when you chew, like me) and a pair of chaps . hoot

hoot - 11 May 2008 09:59 AM

99. remember the most important thing . one wrong slip , and you will bleed to death befor you can get a signal on your cell phone.  hearing protection . eye protection . face shield ( even if you have trouble spitting on it when you chew, like me) and a pair of chaps . hoot

You don’t even have to chew for the spitting advice to be handy. Hard to remember pulling up out of a long tough cut, but handy never the less.

Good advice.  I’ll check out that video this week.

I have all the protective gear.  I respect the chainsaw more than a firearm.  Haven’t lived long enough to bleed out.  My wife makes fun of me in the chaps, though.

Have to pick up some wedges.

Mostly I’ll be bucking what I scrounge.  I took down 10 inch birch last month with my electric that a neighbor wanted removed.  Nothing near it to hit, except me.  I expect to thin three or four 10-14 inch elms on my property this spring to favor my young sugar maples and get a better view or a river.  Doesn’t seem to be tricky.  No structures nearby.

Thanks

your electric bill should go down at least.those electric saws scare me.

Be careful...safety chaps will bind up and stall a gas-fed saw;I’m not so sure how they’d work under an electric saw.

kevin j - 10 May 2008 02:04 AM

Chainsaw Manual training book by APA, mid 80’s, is great on falling and hinging techniques, although some of it is geared to softwood logging that is now mechanized.

k

LOL How do you get APA and actually cutting a tree in the same sentance???

cut near the engine, try avoid cutting near the tip to avoid kickback of saw

LOL How do you get APA and actually cutting a tree in the same sentance???

ok what am I missing-my imagination runs amok...... I know of at least the Amer Psychol Assoc, but this one was Amer Pulpwood Assoc. Thinking authors name was RP Skarna or skarma or something.  Can’t find on google or amazon right now, but was in our public library at least I saw it up until a couple years back.

Sounds like the worm has turned for Clownfish...enjoy your new saw.

I’m still learning how to use this thing properly.  Most of what I cut is less than 20”.  I find that tinkering and learning about the saw still consumes a lot of time (maybe because I have a respect for it) Any advice for a beginner to gas power?

Continue to respect it, don’t cut up through a log with only the tip of your bar and know where your feet are in relation to the chain at all times. Hang on to it like you don’t want it to jump out of your hands and let er’ rip!.

All great advice.  Thanks.

At this point I’ve gone through almost a gallon of gas for the saw.  Although touching up the chain 1-2 per saw tank makes a difference, I’m clearly noticing that I can’t get the chain as sharp as when it was new.  Obviously.  How often to you typically replace a chain if cutting mainly hardwood, assuming no mishaps like hitting a rock etc.?  After 1 gallon of fuel, 5?  I’m using a safety chain, 16 inch bar.

Get rid of the safety chain...those are for suburbanite guys hanging on ladders occasionally trimming trees ...your making production bucking logs. I know that stihl didn’t come with a safety chain.

Also my advice is to get rid of those spiked bumpers if you have them on...with a new chain you should have gone through 5-10 tanks just bucking provided you keep the tip out of the dirt. Too many operators will use those spiked bumpers to strong arm the saw through the wood. that saw will cut it’s own way through the logs without any pressure assistance what so ever...don’t rush and let the chainsaw and the chainsaw only do the cutting.

I’m clearly noticing that I can’t get the chain as sharp as when it was new.

Practice...you’ll get it

How often to you typically replace a chain if cutting mainly hardwood, assuming no mishaps like hitting a rock etc.?

At cutting approx 25+ face cords a year i’ve had them last 3 years....but they can also last 12seconds if you do it right