Hearth.com Home - The leading source of information on fireplaces, wood stoves, gas stoves, chimneys and pellet stoves

 

.... ...Or, Search entire Hearth.com Site by clicking here......

   
 
Indoor boiler types of wood to burn
Posted: 13 May 2008 11:50 PM   [ Ignore ]
firestarter
Rank
CT
Total Posts:  12
Joined  2008-05-13

I’m excited to get ready to heat my house with wood here in CT.  Have 10 acres with varius types of trees. 
I’m still researching which system I will install, but have narrowed it down to an indoor wood furnace in the basement
using the existing house chimney along side our oil burner.  I am learning about the benefits of gasification and am leaning to that type of boiler so that we produce less smoke.

I have two questions I need help with:

1) I have 10 acres of assorted trees.  Can I only burn hardwood type wood.  I have alot of trees that I cannot ID.

2) Is it realistic to expect the basement to be smoke free?  I have an exercise room down there.

Thanks.  Ed

Profile
 
 
Posted: 14 May 2008 07:39 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]
Pyro Extraordinaire
Avatar
RankRankRankRankRank
Addison County, Vermont
Total Posts:  1367
Joined  2007-10-04

I have a gasifier in my basement. You can burn any kind of wood as long as it’s reasonably dry. I’d plan on at least 12 months drying time after cutting and splitting, and two years would be better. I burn oak, buckthorn, white pine, red cedar, poplar. locust, birch, hickory, butternut, and so on.

You will get virtually no smoke in your basement IF:

1) You have good enough draft from your chimney
2) You have either a dedicated outside air source or a leaky house
3) You’ve gotten through the learning curve

If you only open it when it’s burned down to coals, it won’t smoke. There are a bunch of learning curve mistakes that can create a bit of smoke.

 Signature 

Orlan EKO 25, 880 gallon storage
Passive solar hot water
Homebrew controller
http://www.nofossil.org
Be a voyeur - see live graph of last two hours system performance

Profile
 
 
Posted: 14 May 2008 07:43 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]
Moderator
Avatar
RankRankRankRankRank
Clinton, NY
Total Posts:  4684
Joined  2005-11-18

Welcome to the Boiler Room, Ed.

As long as it’s dry, you can burn any kind of wood in a gasifier, or any other kind of wood-burning appliance, for that matter. Some species provide more heat per pound of wood than others, and hardwoods are generally better in that respect than softwoods. I would focus on removing trees in a way that improves the value of your woodlot (deformed, poorly growing, weed trees, etc.).

With a gasifier, you won’t have any smoke in your basement during normal operation. You might get some during loading, depending on your draft and your loading practices. You can learn how to minimize it over time as you learn to how the boiler operates. Gasifiers do produce very fine ash, however, so you want to be careful when cleaning the ashes to avoid getting it into the air.

 Signature 

Orlan EKO 60
1,000 gallons of hot water storage (pending).

I like a source of fuel where the price, supply and quality are controlled by one guy: me.

Profile
 
 
Posted: 16 May 2008 09:37 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]
firestarter
Rank
CT
Total Posts:  12
Joined  2008-05-13

Being able to burn any wood as long as it is dry is encouraging.  This brings up additional question regarding the basement install:

I read a few post stating that the house chiminey can’t be shared with an oil burner. How can I determine if my house chiminey can accomodate the wood furnace and oil burner together?

Profile
 
 
Posted: 16 May 2008 09:45 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]
Burning Chunk
RankRank
Fowlerville MI
Total Posts:  24
Joined  2008-03-11

If your chimney has to flues the oil in one the wood in the other. You just cant run both up one chimney flue

Profile
 
 
Posted: 17 May 2008 06:37 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]
Master of Fire
Avatar
RankRankRankRankRank
Northern MN
Total Posts:  633
Joined  2008-01-01

A significant benefit of the indoor install is the throw-off heat from the boiler itself goes into your heating space, the result being an increase in efficiency. Ditto on the other comments.

 Signature 

Jim
Always tinkering . . .
Tarm Solo Plus 40
1,000 gallons storage

Profile
 
 
Posted: 17 May 2008 09:27 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]
Fire Honor Society
Avatar
RankRankRankRank
NY
Total Posts:  420
Joined  2007-11-07
nofossil - 14 May 2008 07:39 AM

You can burn any kind of wood as long as it’s reasonably dry. I’d plan on at least 12 months drying time after cutting and splitting, and two years would be better.

TFF . . .Ok, seriously, how many people burn wood that has been drying two years after cutting to stove-length and stacking?

 Signature 

cheese

Profile
 
 
Posted: 17 May 2008 11:02 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]
Fire Honor Society
Avatar
RankRankRankRank
Boston Area
Total Posts:  159
Joined  2008-04-06

I know a guy who had a problem with his wood getting too old (5+ years).  Plenty of people are able to burn 2+ year old wood.  There is a nice sense of security knowing that you have 2+ winter’s worth of heat sitting in the yard.

Profile
 
 
Posted: 17 May 2008 07:12 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 8 ]
Pyro Extraordinaire
Avatar
RankRankRankRankRank
Addison County, Vermont
Total Posts:  1367
Joined  2007-10-04
ISeeDeadBTUs - 17 May 2008 09:27 AM

TFF . . .Ok, seriously, how many people burn wood that has been drying two years after cutting to stove-length and stacking?

I’ve always cut a year ahead when I can. With the gasifier, I’m working my way up to two years ahead. Biggest hassle is keeping it dry. My brother cuts two years ahead as well.

If you have the space to stack it, it makes sense. Drier wood burns better and gives more heat. Wood cut ahead is like money in the bank. I look at my pile an know that I’ll be warm next year and the year after.

 Signature 

Orlan EKO 25, 880 gallon storage
Passive solar hot water
Homebrew controller
http://www.nofossil.org
Be a voyeur - see live graph of last two hours system performance

Profile
 
 
Posted: 17 May 2008 07:15 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 9 ]
firestarter
Rank
CT
Total Posts:  12
Joined  2008-05-13

I have the oil burner in one flu and seems like the other one is for the livingroom fireplace.  Can someone tell me how to be sure i have the extra flu needed for the wood furnace.  Sorry… I’m a newbee at this.

Profile
 
 
Posted: 18 May 2008 06:48 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 10 ]
Master of Fire
Avatar
RankRankRankRankRank
Northern MN
Total Posts:  633
Joined  2008-01-01
ISeeDeadBTUs - 17 May 2008 09:27 AM

TFF . . .Ok, seriously, how many people burn wood that has been drying two years after cutting to stove-length and stacking?

If people don’t, the reason must be that they think wood gets old like gasoline, or maybe their tank isn’t big enough to hold all the wood.

 Signature 

Jim
Always tinkering . . .
Tarm Solo Plus 40
1,000 gallons storage

Profile
 
 
Posted: 18 May 2008 07:40 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 11 ]
Pyro Extraordinaire
Avatar
RankRankRankRankRank
Addison County, Vermont
Total Posts:  1367
Joined  2007-10-04
ecrane99 - 17 May 2008 07:15 PM

I have the oil burner in one flu and seems like the other one is for the livingroom fireplace.  Can someone tell me how to be sure i have the extra flu needed for the wood furnace.  Sorry… I’m a newbee at this.

It sounds like you don’t have an extra flue for a wood furnace or boiler. If that’s the case, I can think of three options:

1) Replace the oil burner with a ‘direct vent’ oil or gas unit, freeing up the flue that it’s using. The direct vent units are smaller and more efficient in any case. This option makes sense if your oil burner is a candidate for replacement now or soon.

2) Build a new chimney for the wood boiler. Typically this would be double wall insulated stainless construction.

3) Build an outbuilding for your wood boiler, or buy an outdoor boiler.

 Signature 

Orlan EKO 25, 880 gallon storage
Passive solar hot water
Homebrew controller
http://www.nofossil.org
Be a voyeur - see live graph of last two hours system performance

Profile
 
 
Posted: 18 May 2008 08:23 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 12 ]
Really Hot
RankRankRank
Somewhere in Maine
Total Posts:  47
Joined  2008-01-11
nofossil - 18 May 2008 07:40 AM
ecrane99 - 17 May 2008 07:15 PM

I have the oil burner in one flu and seems like the other one is for the livingroom fireplace.  Can someone tell me how to be sure i have the extra flu needed for the wood furnace.  Sorry… I’m a newbee at this.

It sounds like you don’t have an extra flue for a wood furnace or boiler. If that’s the case, I can think of three options:

1) Replace the oil burner with a ‘direct vent’ oil or gas unit, freeing up the flue that it’s using. The direct vent units are smaller and more efficient in any case. This option makes sense if your oil burner is a candidate for replacement now or soon.

2) Build a new chimney for the wood boiler. Typically this would be double wall insulated stainless construction.

3) Build an outbuilding for your wood boiler, or buy an outdoor boiler.

nofossil, There is a 4th option… http://www.mainewoodfurnaces.com/CC500_Installation.shtml
This wood/oil boiler can share a single chimney flu.

Profile
 
 
Posted: 18 May 2008 09:24 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 13 ]
firestarter
Rank
CT
Total Posts:  12
Joined  2008-05-13

My existing oil furnace is only 7 yrs old, so I think outdoor installation will be my best option. 

Thanks for the help.  Great site!

Profile