On the electric question…
Do you have a well for water? I had a Pin hole in my pump pipe so my well pump was running and it started small like extra $10 and grew to $50 a month till I shut the breakers down on everythig and found it. Pretty Common issue wil a 30yr old well in MN.
Later
** Brilliant thought.*** That happens all the time. That alone could be a real big draw.
The suggestions on this forum absolutely amaze me sometimes. Wood burning conversation turns into technical electrical troubleshooting discussion by a bunch of frugal energy saving fanatics. Are we all nuts or is it just me???
Yup , and thats about the first place you ever want to check too. You get something jamming the foot valve which is another common issue and it will do pretty much the same thing running more or less constantly trying to keep pressure.
I’ll check for pinhole, but I have both a cistern, and a well with the ability to switch to either on demand. Both seem to have equal power results, but i’ll double check.
Bill, rechecked the old fridge, It only draws 180 watts when running. I used the kill-o-watt thing, and in 7 hrs it drew .44 kw. I think. Maybe it isnt too bad.
Maybe I should buy that power meter, as well as the moisture one.
What are some of you guy’s E-bills?
What I was hoping to do was see if there is something that is draining more heat from your system than you think it is. The garage is a likely candidate, and an easy one to test. You might find that your solution isn’t plumbing but insulation?
As far as flow through the boiler, I don’t know. I’ve got two Grundfoss UP26-64 pumps in parallel pulling through the boiler. I haven’t seen an actual pump curve for the Laddomat, but I’d say that I’m probably pushing twice the water through the boiler than what you are. I just don’t know if that is really better or not? It’s working for me, but I have hx coils in a tank, not a pressurized tank. I don’t really know/understand the Laddomat enough to comment on it. A big pump and the Termovar valve I can relate to.
Maybe it’ll make more sense to me if I sleep on it.
Bill, Sled and I have been discussing my heat for a couple of seasons now. Im sure saved an e-mail. I’ll take the info from whomever, whereever. I have plenty of boiler, NoFo thinks im way too big. I just have this tick in my brain saying “I can do much better” per load of wood.
As far as the old fridge goes, at 12 hours it used .62 KW. So 24 hours would be 1.24K, X 30= 37.2K. I have my watts and kilowatts mixed up, thats not right.
Unless its kWh, X 0.074 cents= 2.7 something. Thats off, maybe a decimal, cause 27$ sounds right.
Bill, help me out.
I insulated my boilers underbelly last night. Will post the results on the wood consumption thread.
1.24KW = in Lafayette @ 9.5 cent a KW thats 13 cents a day in running cost. Which is alot for a fridge. As someone said that fridge has to work harder in the winter months. The plates on the compressor are not made for the cold. Keep looking for the culprit.
I don’t think you should give away the fridge. Or, I could be by later to pick it up.
What did you insulate underneath with.. I mean what material
That fridge is inside the garage, where it stays between 55-70F. 12 cents a day seems cheap. Heck now im more frustrated, cause if it only costs 3,4 bucks to run that thing, how the heck is my bill freakin 120 bucks?
The only thing big then we would run is the dryer. Maybe the cooking oven.
%$#^%$&$!!!!!!!!!!!
I used a thin layer of fiberglass, and 2” blue foamboard. Its early, but im 2 hours longer at this point on a burn. I havent been out to check it yet.
Im heading out to a wood cutting party.
When I get back I want this problem solved men.
