I’m still trying to make this boiler work. Istill don’t think it gasifise and burn real clean. I put up a new chimney ,I have added a draft inducer,cleaned out the back and top twice. Last night at 11 boiler was at 155 just starting its cycle, I refilled the firebox. This morning at 7 the boiler was at 112 half full of coals, I just don’t get it. Why won’t it burn the coals out keep the heat and keep the heat up, the inducer and draft were on. The outside temp only got down to 27 last night and dead calm. Put in wood 35 min later its up to heat. Drives me nuts. And besides that you always get a faceful of smoke. Do I need to run the draft fan also. I sure wish some of you were closer. HELP[/quote
I can help you , could you possibly take some pictures of the install and the chimney , average stack temp at the base of the chimney and temperature as it exists the flue . Could you have someone do a accurate draft reading with and without draft inducers running , you need a high quality gauge to get useful reading .Anthony
I don’t no if finding this forum is good or bad, I have gasifire wood boiler sitting outside that I bought off of Phil. It is another division of dirigo and I’ve had nothing but problems just trying to find out were the csa tag and any literature what so ever might be found. I’ve done the phone calls,e-mails, faxes, and not one response. Now reading this forum I don’t no what action to take. It sounds like every one is like me, mad as hell but still want to make it work. With no tag or any info what so ever I couldn’t install it anyways (inspector, insurance, and don’t want to burn my house down(hand built,I’d loose it big time). I’m going to keep trying to get info but I’m with you all on any other actions we can take.
Don’t feel bad,my adobe was supposed to be UL and EPA and there is none of that. Guess I never even asked my insurance company, mines in a machine shed though. We all have been had by Phil, if he would at least talk to us. I have gotten no where with him. Now my refactory is broken, 3 month use, that’s not too good. But I really like my $5000, no $6500 with everything I’ve had to do, monument. Good Luck
Thanks for responding Muleman51. I’m going to keep trying, mine cost me over 7g. and planned on putting it under my deck, back corner of a walkout basement. I read that there was someone else that was adressing Phils issues I’d like to be able to contact him and as far as an approved stamp or what ever is needed I would appreciate if anybody knows if it is legal.
Thanks again.
Gill contact your Attorney General and get a complaint started let them know other states are also trying to work on him , but if he doesn’t answer I don’t kwow what we can do. Don’t know if druzzy got New York on him yet?
Well it’s been a while but I finally got all my paperwork together for the Maine AG. I will mail out the complaint form and all paperwork tomorrow. The cancer has now spread to all panels on the boiler. I’m sure no one has heard from Phil, right?
well i did replace some of the rotted metal with stop sign alum.--and the back elbow was plugged up--so i give it a good cleaning and fired it back up--it is working--my model is a 200-- and it has a big hopper-- i fill it twice a day--the temp goes up to 174--and does pump the hot water over--but it goes through alot of wood--i’m wondering if the stack is sucking some of the heat out to fast when the air fan is in the off position??my refactory is busted up bad ready--i have a friend giving me some new wool material for the inside--i’m going to disassemble the complete unit during the summer--i’m not sure if its ever going to work the way the sales pitch was--unless there some thing wrong--is there anybody elese out there --that their stove is working correctly?? and i also have to get off my butt and finish the coplaint with the n.y.-ag. i’m open for any suggestion ! very dissappionted--druzzy
I have one of the beasts & like you plan on a complete overhaul this spring ie new skins & wool blanket
I also have burned a lot more wood than exspected. There seems to be a lot of Greenwood owners around here
& I am taking my cue from them. I have Maxx R insulation 130 ft underground, anyone else use this stuff,
overheated the system last fall & it shrunk to hell. I have had snow melt along the supply route this winter.
Before I drop the axe on the ADOBE I have to
1) Replace underground lines ( I have built in overheat protection)
2) strip unit replace skins, making sure of tight seal
3) add wool blanket to reduce radiant heat
4) thoroughly clean the water vessel, I plan to install an access panel on the side of unit for periodic inspection, cleaning.
5) measure stack temperature under load using a turkey thermonotor to make sure I am around 300 degrees
6) Install exhaust hood to avoid smoke in the face.
Thanks for the post druzzy, need to get cracking.Anthony, steam man, did I miss anything on the overhaul?
The truth is none of us should have to be doing any of this. These boilers have only been used less than 6 months. This is pathetic, there must be some way we can recover our costs from this poor design. We shouldn’t have to be putting access panels in our boilers, you should probably put the access panel in the back or it will be extremely hard to clean. What about the refactory, how are we going to replace those parts? Just venting again.
I have one of the beasts & like you plan on a complete overhaul this spring ie new skins & wool blanket
I also have burned a lot more wood than exspected. There seems to be a lot of Greenwood owners around here
& I am taking my cue from them. I have Maxx R insulation 130 ft underground, anyone else use this stuff,
overheated the system last fall & it shrunk to hell. I have had snow melt along the supply route this winter.
Before I drop the axe on the ADOBE I have to
1) Replace underground lines ( I have built in overheat protection)
2) strip unit replace skins, making sure of tight seal
3) add wool blanket to reduce radiant heat
4) thoroughly clean the water vessel, I plan to install an access panel on the side of unit for periodic inspection, cleaning.
5) measure stack temperature under load using a turkey ther to make sure I am around 300 degrees
6) Install exhaust hood to avoid smoke in the face.
Thanks for the post druzzy, need to get cracking.Anthony, steam man, did I miss anything on the overhaul?
I love to here when people want to take take control of their equipment and make any necessary repairs as needed including some safe design mods to make it work to peak efficiency in your individual situation . I would hate to see anyone have to give up a major investment and call it a total loss .
Roaring Fire sounds like you got it pretty well covered .
Check out the cost Stainless Steel side panels .
Also make sure you do a native air smoke test to find an fix all leaks . If done right it will help reduce creosote when boiler shuts damper on high limit .
I could go on forever , Anthony
I purchased an Adobe boiler last March,I started to measure and the boiler they sent does not have the dimensions of the one I ordered, however did does have an ALTERED SERIAL number to match the model that I paid for.
for the record, as trivial as it sounds , altering the serial number on an issued data tag for a UL listed item which has to be subjected to safety testing VOIDS THE LISTING (at least it does in the section of the stove buisness that i work in) i strongly suggest you include visual evidence of the altered tag to you complaint to the BBB. and you might also follow up with the CPSC.
mind you (this is my disclaimer) i do not bash other companies in public, but thats pretty bad. im usually pretty neutral when it comes to other manufacturers but im not going to wave at this one. if you like i will see about what the direct law about altering these tags is and get it to you.
I would be thankful for any help we can get. The big problem is that we get no response from him at all. So far he has ignored 3 letters from the MNAG.
I have one of the beasts & like you plan on a complete overhaul this spring ie new skins & wool blanket
I also have burned a lot more wood than exspected. There seems to be a lot of Greenwood owners around here
& I am taking my cue from them. I have Maxx R insulation 130 ft underground, anyone else use this stuff,
overheated the system last fall & it shrunk to hell. I have had snow melt along the supply route this winter.
Before I drop the axe on the ADOBE I have to
1) Replace underground lines ( I have built in overheat protection)
2) strip unit replace skins, making sure of tight seal
3) add wool blanket to reduce radiant heat
4) thoroughly clean the water vessel, I plan to install an access panel on the side of unit for periodic inspection, cleaning.
5) measure stack temperature under load using a turkey thermonotor to make sure I am around 300 degrees
6) Install exhaust hood to avoid smoke in the face.
Thanks for the post druzzy, need to get cracking.Anthony, steam man, did I miss anything on the overhaul?
Roaring fire how deep down are are your underground lines buried ?
Did you notice the heat loss from day one , or only after the system was overheated ?
My underground pipes run 125’ are buried 4-5’ down and are insulated with MAXX R insulation system . This was my first season starting from scratch , we never had any snow melt or any noticeable heat loss from the underground pipes I monitor the supply and return tempature under no load , they stay within a couple degrees of each other.
One other thing for your list , if your boiler is in a outside building make sure the building is well insulated with plenty of air for unrestricted burning process of your Adobe boiler . Could you or anybody with a Adobe boiler please post some pics of your boiler , chimney bypass system , induced draft system, panel problems and aqustat location . Anthony
The underground lines are a painful point with me Anthony. They were overheated from day one.
My boiler is installed in 1000sq ft workshop 6 to 8 ft higher elevation than my house. I stupidly didn’t
install temp controll valve ,only the 30 lb pressure relief supplied withthe unit. When unit overheated
the pressure relief did not work , the 1 inch pex proximal to the boiler blew. I didn’t know the lines were damaged
until later that fall. During a rain storm water water entered my basement by way of the pex pipe inside the insulating foam.
I dug of line & every joint had separated 6 to 8 in. This was just prior to winter so we rejoined all the Maxxr
& came up 8 ft short. I put in a new length & hoped for the best over the winter.The first frost told the storey, my 130 ft
supply line has been frost & snow free most of the winter. Interestingly I installed a temp guage where supply enters the house
& tried to compare with my temp guage at the furnace end. Looking at the guages you would not think there was a problem, no appreciable
drop over 130 ft.
My lines are only down a couple of ft. M y plan is to go deeper & put in drainage under the lines & carry the drainage away from the
house to avoid creating a water way to my house.
Looking forward to getting set up properly.
