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Wood stove ash OK to mix in compost???
Posted: 19 April 2008 05:30 PM   [ Ignore ]
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In the next few weeks our compost will be thawed again and active/generating its own heat. My wood ash is mainly pine and
poplar. Is it good to mix wood ash or would it be to acidic. Im only home on weekends for awhile so thought of a few projects
to do around the house while hopefully spring is on its way. Any comments or experience appreciated.

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Posted: 19 April 2008 11:10 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]
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Just the opposite, wood ash is basic. As long as the ash is only from wood, it’s a fine soil amendment.

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Posted: 20 April 2008 01:36 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]
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Last year I mixed ash from the GW with my clay soil for various vegetable containers. To the best of my memory, NONE of them grew. For what little you save, I would suggest not mixing. Everyone swears they never burn anything ‘bad’ in their hydronic unit, but sometimes we ‘forget’.

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Posted: 20 April 2008 09:17 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]
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I use a little for the potash purpose for our compost. I also spread ours on our gardens. Like said it is the opposite. It takes about 2 to 2.5 times the woodash to equal the lime when it comes to PH. We have clay soil, so I use it all the time on the gardens.

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Posted: 21 April 2008 07:49 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]
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Right. Wood ash will not make the ground acidic.

I too would not add ash to any vegetable containers but do always put it on the garden before tilling. If you do this, be sure to spread it good. Then you will have no problems.

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Posted: 21 April 2008 10:19 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]
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My neighbour has done it for 20 years.  He told me just don’t put too much in.
Too much of anything is bad right?

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Posted: 21 April 2008 11:37 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]
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Sounds like I will go ahead.  Thanx for the replies guys. cheese

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Posted: 22 April 2008 11:13 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]
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I have been applying “butt dust” to my large lawn this year. It is a 4-4-1 fertilizer that is actually straight burnt and pelletized sludge from our city wastewater treatment plant. They test it for all the varios levels of this or that to assure it qualifies as Class A or whatever and it is free. Fertilizer costs have gone up by 3x or more lately so free is good. Anyway, the last number is low so I need potash which I hope can be provided by the wood ash which I always spread around the lawn with no ill effects so far.

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Posted: 22 April 2008 11:58 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 8 ]
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I’ve found that wood ash put into a compost bin or pile tends to retard the heating/composting process. Hardwood ash is a fine soil amendment, but I don’t think it helps the compost pile. I spread the ashes directly on the soil with aged compost, then turn the whole works under and the beginning or end of each season, depending on my time and energy resources.

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Posted: 22 April 2008 01:34 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 9 ]
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Eric Johnson - 22 April 2008 11:58 AM

I’ve found that wood ash put into a compost bin or pile tends to retard the heating/composting process. Hardwood ash is a fine soil amendment, but I don’t think it helps the compost pile. I spread the ashes directly on the soil with aged compost, then turn the whole works under and the beginning or end of each season, depending on my time and energy resources.

Erics right, spread it where you need it and a little goes a long way.  Wood ash acts the same as lime but with other great minerals included.  Just keep it away from acid loving plants like Rhodies etc.  This is why you do not add to compost.  Then you can only use the compost on plants that need lime; not a good way to go.

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Posted: 14 May 2008 08:04 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 10 ]
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Make sure it is hardwood ash like maple not pine, cedar or other softwoods.

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Posted: 14 May 2008 12:04 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 11 ]
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Fredman - 14 May 2008 08:04 AM

Make sure it is hardwood ash like maple not pine, cedar or other softwoods.

Why?

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Posted: 15 May 2008 10:32 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 12 ]
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I will have to ask my neighbor to find out. He stressed to me only maple ashes and when I find out I will resond.

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Posted: 16 May 2008 05:47 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 13 ]
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Softwood evergreens grow well in acid soil so if you just used evergreen compost it would be best on other evergreens, rhodies, azalias and acid loving plants. If you mixed it with hardwood compost and tested the mix you could tell if it needed lime to bring it up to neutral 7. Hardwood ash contains up to 70% calcium carbonate, as well as potassium. phosphorus and as I mentioned a great many trace elements. It’s fast acting lime and more is not better.. Usually applications are 25#or less / 1000sq.ft. and apply every two or three years. Testing soil yearly makes good sense. Peat moss and elemental sulfur will lower ph, just the opposite of lime, again test needed.
Ed

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Posted: 16 May 2008 06:44 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 14 ]
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colebrookman - 16 May 2008 05:47 PM

Softwood evergreens grow well in acid soil so if you just used evergreen compost it would be best on other evergreens, rhodies, azalias and acid loving plants. If you mixed it with hardwood compost and tested the mix you could tell if it needed lime to bring it up to neutral 7. Hardwood ash contains up to 70% calcium carbonate, as well as potassium. phosphorus and as I mentioned a great many trace elements. It’s fast acting lime and more is not better.. Usually applications are 25#or less / 1000sq.ft. and apply every two or three years. Testing soil yearly makes good sense. Peat moss and elemental sulfur will lower ph, just the opposite of lime, again test needed.
Ed

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Posted: 16 May 2008 07:08 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 15 ]
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ISeeDeadBTUs - 16 May 2008 06:44 PM
colebrookman - 16 May 2008 05:47 PM

Softwood evergreens grow well in acid soil so if you just used evergreen compost it would be best on other evergreens, rhodies, azalias and acid loving plants. If you mixed it with hardwood compost and tested the mix you could tell if it needed lime to bring it up to neutral 7. Hardwood ash contains up to 70% calcium carbonate, as well as potassium. phosphorus and as I mentioned a great many trace elements. It’s fast acting lime and more is not better.. Usually applications are 25#or less / 1000sq.ft. and apply every two or three years. Testing soil yearly makes good sense. Peat moss and elemental sulfur will lower ph, just the opposite of lime, again test needed.
Ed

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