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Best ~ 70cc chainsaw. suggestion please
Posted: 07 May 2008 07:20 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 31 ]
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You can order a 372XP for $699 (shipping included).  That is a big jump from the craftsman to a pro saw like this; I would highly recommend getting some training, and making sure your PPE is in good order.

http://www.wisesales.com/Huskysaws.html

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Posted: 07 May 2008 07:57 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 32 ]
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The best power to weight ratio saw isn’t the Dolmar anymore its the Solo 681.  6.4 hp at 13.9 lbs compared to the 6.3 at 13.6 and you can order them online at Bailey’s.  This saw flat out screams, but still as others were saying not something I would want to use for limbing.  If dropping and bucking its where its at, but forget about it if you want to throw it around (figuratively).
Chad

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Posted: 07 May 2008 08:38 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 33 ]
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snydley - 07 May 2008 01:42 PM
downeast - 07 May 2008 08:15 AM

Get the tool that does what you need to do. If you’re up for a macho experience, then it’s another matter.
Most cutting by loggers, producers, arborists--the professionals--work with the most efficient tool they need. No macho “muscle car” stuff. -

Nothing macho here, I’m just looking for a bigger and better saw than the 55cc. Craftsman I have.

I’ve gone DOWN in size over the years: lighter weight, more effective cutting, better maintenance, less fatigue. No more lugging a 440 a mile for clearing < 20” softwoods. A 16” or 18” bar WITH LEARNED SKILLS, and a 50cc pro saw such as a 346 or 260 saw is more than sufficient for 95% of Eastern trees IN THE RIGHT HANDS. ( Caps are for shouting)

Well good for you! I guess you know it all and I have no idea at all what I’m doing. Thanks for clearing that up for me. mad

What’s this about 42” bars and 70cc pro saws simply for working up a truckload of logs or a couple of cords of firewood ?  tongue rolleye

I don’t know where you got that from. I WISH all I needed was a couple of cords of firewood. My woodstove is now my primary source of heat. I don’t know where you live, but in western NY state we need heat from AT LEAST Sept. - Apr. Hell, it was down in the 30’s last night, and we had the stove going all night.


Concentrate on the skills to cut .........  JMNSHO

blah, blah, blah. Preach it to someone who gives a crap. zipper

Touchy there boy. More time needed in the woods working.
Oh yeah: “Maine” it says. Does have some cold weather from August to June.
Go to it.  zipper  it is.
The Preacher.

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VOX CLAMANTIS IN DESIERTO
2001 Encore cat ("new house” w plumbing 99 44/100 % heating)
2006 Jotul Oslo ("old" house wing w no plumbing 100% heat)
1979 Tempwood (shop)
2004 Snorkel ( hot tub )
60 a. Downeast coastal woodlands
Stihls: 044, MS260, 009L, FS110
Husky: 137

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Posted: 07 May 2008 09:43 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 34 ]
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Sealcove - 07 May 2008 07:20 PM

You can order a 372XP for $699 (shipping included).  That is a big jump from the craftsman to a pro saw like this; I would highly recommend getting some training, and making sure your PPE is in good order.

http://www.wisesales.com/Huskysaws.html

I like the price, but why do some of you people think I need some training, you don’t even know me, or how many years I’ve run a chainsaw, or my experiences. Or is that just a canned response,(get some training), you tell everyone?.

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Vermont Castings Resolute III model 042
manufactured ~ 1985
Stihl MS361 18”
Stihl MS170 14”
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Posted: 07 May 2008 10:07 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 35 ]
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I have run a saw professionally for 15 years, and I go through training every single year.  I still pickup new things, fine tune my methods, and realize that I have developed bad habits over the year.  I was assuming that since your primary saw was a classic homeowner saw (nothing wrong with that), that you may never have had any proper training, and if that is the case I would highly recommend it before making a big leap.  Even if you have had training, it may be a good time to consider recurrent training.  This is not meant to be patronizing advice, as there is no room for attitude when working with saws.

Good luck with your selection, and safe cutting.

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Posted: 08 May 2008 01:18 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 36 ]
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I’ve had similar problems when I ask (elsewhere) about which electrode to use for my stick welder. “Take a welding class” is the typical canned advice. Yes a chainsaw can hurt and kill you. If you recognize that then I recommend that you learn by doing.

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Posted: 08 May 2008 03:08 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 37 ]
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Highbeam - 08 May 2008 01:18 PM

I’ve had similar problems when I ask (elsewhere) about which electrode to use for my stick welder. “Take a welding class” is the typical canned advice. Yes a chainsaw can hurt and kill you. If you recognize that then I recommend that you learn by doing.

I agree. If I was cutting down giant redwood trees in California, or some specialized cutting, then a class is in order, but to just cut a few log loads for firewood a year, and maybe cut down an occasional tree that’s nowhere near anything that it might fall on, I don’t know if that’s necessary. As long as a person is aware of the danger involved and is careful that’s good enough in this case.

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Vermont Castings Resolute III model 042
manufactured ~ 1985
Stihl MS361 18”
Stihl MS170 14”
Craftsman 55cc 18”
TaskForce 5 Ton Electric Splitter
Huskee 22 Ton Splitter

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Posted: 08 May 2008 06:46 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 38 ]
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snydley - 05 May 2008 01:13 PM

MCD? question
The Craftsman is 55cc., 7200+ RPM and 17.6lbs. according to the manual. It doesn’t list horsepower. The Dolmar PS 7300,(one option I’m looking at), weighs 13.6 lbs.,(powerhead only), so I think I’d get a bigger more powerful saw with about the same weight. I’m also considering the Stihl MS440, and the Husqy 372XP. The Dolmar seems to be the best “value” of the lot, but is it as good a saw? I don’t want to “go cheap” and not get as good a saw. I’d use the Crapsman for the small stuff. It’s great on anything that is smaller than the bar length. Part of the reason for getting a bigger saw is to also take some of the work off of the Craftsman. I really “taxed” it with the last locust tree I cut,(approx. 36"). Trying to cut the trunk, when the whole 18” bar was buried in the tree really worked it over! It was stalling and kicking back. I want something that will cut right through that big stuff. I also didn’t feel real safe running the Craftsman that way. All in all it just felt like it was too big a tree for that saw. I don’t want to buy something and have that same problem, that’s my reasoning for going with a bigger saw.

Take offense or be intelligent Snydley. Those saws you think are right for you are for well-trained professionals.....I wouldn’t have anyone “fire in the hole” near me with Semtex . Don’t know what it is ? Then listen. Learn.
Got your own woodlands to work ? Can’t cut a 36” with a 20” bar ? Tune the saw, sharpen the chain right, learn technique.
HP has nothing to do with cutting efficiency. Bar length has little to do with pro cutting EXCEPT in the PNW with DBH over 3’. Don’t know PNW or DBH ?  Don’t think PPE is worth a damn, huh ? . 
You get touchy about advice, fine. It’s too obvious that your experience is slight. But never demean those of us who offer advice FROM EXPERIENCE. Ignore it, fine. Too macho to learn, fine. You got a disease : Ready, fire, aim. raspberry
Try this on another site that deals strictly with all the varieties of using arborist tools:  ArboristSite or Forestry Forum. Get off your chair and get out and watch arborists, or loggers.
When you stop learning, don’t come down for breakfast. tongue rolleye

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VOX CLAMANTIS IN DESIERTO
2001 Encore cat ("new house” w plumbing 99 44/100 % heating)
2006 Jotul Oslo ("old" house wing w no plumbing 100% heat)
1979 Tempwood (shop)
2004 Snorkel ( hot tub )
60 a. Downeast coastal woodlands
Stihls: 044, MS260, 009L, FS110
Husky: 137

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Posted: 08 May 2008 07:07 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 39 ]
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downeast - 08 May 2008 06:46 PM
snydley - 05 May 2008 01:13 PM

MCD? question
The Craftsman is 55cc., 7200+ RPM and 17.6lbs. according to the manual. It doesn’t list horsepower. The Dolmar PS 7300,(one option I’m looking at), weighs 13.6 lbs.,(powerhead only), so I think I’d get a bigger more powerful saw with about the same weight.

Take offense or be intelligent Snydley. Those saws you think are right for you are for well-trained professionals..... tongue rolleye

You know what, don’t even bother writing to me anymore.  You have tons of experience, blah blah blah. Talk about macho,(words that came from your hands). I don’t believe a 70cc pro saw is too much for me, and nothing you say is gonna change my mind. It’s not a friggin’ bazooka or field artillery or something I know nothing about, even though you want to blow your own horn and tell me I don’t know what I’m getting into etc., etc. YOU HAVE NO F***KIN’ IDEA WHO I AM OR MY EXPERIENCE LEVEL!!!! I just came onto this site looking for advice on 70cc pro saws, and you have to kick your weight around and act like I’m a little kid that knows nothing. Let me tell you something, I’ve been around a long time, and I don’t need YOU to tell me what I should do, if it’s anything more than suggestions about 70cc saws. So anything more than that, KEEP IT TO YOURSELF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Vermont Castings Resolute III model 042
manufactured ~ 1985
Stihl MS361 18”
Stihl MS170 14”
Craftsman 55cc 18”
TaskForce 5 Ton Electric Splitter
Huskee 22 Ton Splitter

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Posted: 08 May 2008 07:31 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 40 ]
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I’d suggest you post the Q on arboristsite saw forum.

I think you will get good info, and also a whole chorus echoing what Maine is saying.

No tree should be treated as anything less than serious.  the closest call I have ever had was less than 20 dbh stump about 20 feet tall. Can’t get much more basic than that. and the mind slipped because it was ‘so easy’ almost got me. And, yes I have done this for a while.

Personally, I’d go the Dolmar for what you describe. Some of the others are overkill, some under.
The 7900 will be my next saw. I won’t even look at the smaller two in that frame.

sorry if you are offended, best wishes

k

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Posted: 08 May 2008 08:47 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 41 ]
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snydley - 08 May 2008 07:07 PM
downeast - 08 May 2008 06:46 PM
snydley - 05 May 2008 01:13 PM

MCD? question
The Craftsman is 55cc., 7200+ RPM and 17.6lbs. according to the manual. It doesn’t list horsepower. The Dolmar PS 7300,(one option I’m looking at), weighs 13.6 lbs.,(powerhead only), so I think I’d get a bigger more powerful saw with about the same weight.

Take offense or be intelligent Snydley. Those saws you think are right for you are for well-trained professionals..... tongue rolleye

You know what, don’t even bother writing to me anymore.  You have tons of experience, blah blah blah. Talk about macho,(words that came from your hands). I don’t believe a 70cc pro saw is too much for me, and nothing you say is gonna change my mind. It’s not a friggin’ bazooka or field artillery or something I know nothing about, even though you want to blow your own horn and tell me I don’t know what I’m getting into etc., etc. YOU HAVE NO F***KIN’ IDEA WHO I AM OR MY EXPERIENCE LEVEL!!!! I just came onto this site looking for advice on 70cc pro saws, and you have to kick your weight around and act like I’m a little kid that knows nothing. Let me tell you something, I’ve been around a long time, and I don’t need YOU to tell me what I should do, if it’s anything more than suggestions about 70cc saws. So anything more than that, KEEP IT TO YOURSELF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Prozac zipper

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VOX CLAMANTIS IN DESIERTO
2001 Encore cat ("new house” w plumbing 99 44/100 % heating)
2006 Jotul Oslo ("old" house wing w no plumbing 100% heat)
1979 Tempwood (shop)
2004 Snorkel ( hot tub )
60 a. Downeast coastal woodlands
Stihls: 044, MS260, 009L, FS110
Husky: 137

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Posted: 08 May 2008 09:06 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 42 ]
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kevin j - 08 May 2008 07:31 PM

I’d suggest you post the Q on arboristsite saw forum.

I think you will get good info, and also a whole chorus echoing what Maine is saying.

No tree should be treated as anything less than serious.  the closest call I have ever had was less than 20 dbh stump about 20 feet tall. Can’t get much more basic than that. and the mind slipped because it was ‘so easy’ almost got me. And, yes I have done this for a while.

Personally, I’d go the Dolmar for what you describe. Some of the others are overkill, some under.
The 7900 will be my next saw. I won’t even look at the smaller two in that frame.


sorry if you are offended, best wishes

k

Well, I get offended when I ask for suggestions on a saw, and instead of that,(only from a couple of people), I get, “that saw’s too big”, “take a safety course”, “I can do that with an 18” bar” and on and on. I’m not a kid, 52yrs., and I’m certainly not an idiot. I know the things are dangerous, and treat them with respect. I didn’t come on here to be preached about safety, and if someone doesn’t have any good suggestions pertaining to a particular saw or brand, I’d rather they kept their comments to themselves! I have a 55cc, 18” bar Craftsman chainsaw that seems to be a little underpowered for some of the big trunks I need to cut up, so I’m looking for something better. I figured on a 70cc saw, thinking a 55cc Stihl, or Husqvarna, or Dolmar would give me pretty much the same as what I have now. Would it, or would it not, I don’t know, but I’m not willing to buy one the same size and find that it’s not much better than what I have now. And I don’t know where anyone ever got the idea that I don’t think cutting a tree down is serious business. It’s deadly serious, I know it, and I don’t need to be reminded with every reply written to me. Like the message you just wrote to me, you could have left out everything before “Personally I’d go for the Dolmar” and that’d been great. wink

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Vermont Castings Resolute III model 042
manufactured ~ 1985
Stihl MS361 18”
Stihl MS170 14”
Craftsman 55cc 18”
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Huskee 22 Ton Splitter

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Posted: 08 May 2008 09:41 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 43 ]
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This one is bigger than 70cc. Figured you might enjoy seeing a 2 man saw.  big surprise

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9x8rBKC4BE&feature=related

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Posted: 09 May 2008 12:24 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 44 ]
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snydley - 08 May 2008 09:06 PM

Well, I get offended when I ask for suggestions on a saw, and instead of that,(only from a couple of people), I get, “that saw’s too big”, “take a safety course”, “I can do that with an 18” bar” and on and on. I’m not a kid, 52yrs.

Sorry I will keep my experienced advice to myself from now on and only tell you what you want to hear.  Attitude has no place behind a chainsaw.  Be safe.

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Posted: 09 May 2008 11:30 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 45 ]
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k

Well, I get offended when I ask for suggestions on a saw, and instead of that,(only from a couple of people), I get, “that saw’s too big”, “take a safety course”, “I can do that with an 18” bar” and on and on. I’m not a kid, 52yrs., and I’m certainly not an idiot. I know the things are dangerous, and treat them with respect. I didn’t come on here to be preached about safety, and if someone doesn’t have any good suggestions pertaining to a particular saw or brand, I’d rather they kept their comments to themselves! I have a 55cc, 18” bar Craftsman chainsaw that seems to be a little underpowered for some of the big trunks I need to cut up, so I’m looking for something better. I figured on a 70cc saw, thinking a 55cc Stihl, or Husqvarna, or Dolmar would give me pretty much the same as what I have now. Would it, or would it not, I don’t know, but I’m not willing to buy one the same size and find that it’s not much better than what I have now. And I don’t know where anyone ever got the idea that I don’t think cutting a tree down is serious business. It’s deadly serious, I know it, and I don’t need to be reminded with every reply written to me. Like the message you just wrote to me, you could have left out everything before “Personally I’d go for the Dolmar” and that’d been great. wink

When you are asking to go from a Craftsman to a pro saw, most in the know will ask a few questions.  There is a HUGE difference.  Even going from what you have to a pro Stihl (I have a 036 and a 361 it beyond what is imaginable).  Going to something in the 70+ range is a large jump.  As others have said, just be careful.  I’ve cut about 20+ cords so far between this fall and know and have been good for about 90% with my 361.  We also have a 75cc and a 80+cc saw and they are great for the big wod, but I can still get through it if I needed to with the 361.  I think that this is another thing that these guys are trying to say.  Lets not get into arguments but instead listening to what is said and taking it for what is said.
Go with what you what but I really think you would be happy with something in the 60-75 cc range.
Chad

Mainer,
I like your thoughts........

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Jotul Oslo for the house
Retired 118 now for the garage (*safety first*)
Solo tophandle 637
Stihl 021
Stilh 036
Stihl 361
Husky 372
Solo 681
Husky 3120

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