...My small cessna 172 airplane is very weight sensitive so the weight of fuel is calculated when loading it. Running on 20 gallons in the tanks instead of 40 gallons gives an added 120 lbs of baggage or hamberger eaters to carry. Cooler weather will also create more lift than hot humid air.
I never got my license, but I did solo 150’s a number of times. Just don’t forget that the airspace in your fuel tanks is one of the three most useless things to an aviator, Carl. And never, ever forget GUMPS! Rick
You did this in your spare time off the carrier? ROTF
I’d bet they’re not, highbeam, I just tossed that number out as a starting point for some order of magnitude estimates on what hauling wood around is all about. Bed dimensions, side fences, suspension mods, rear axle replacements...there’s almost no end to the variables involved in the actual safe load capacity of any specific truck. I just know that a lot of people who never have discussions like this overestimate it. Rick
Well boys: pickup trucks can be deceiving. hmm. got a cord and a bit yesterday from what appeared to be a PU> it really was a 1 ton tandem with the dump box. It was dumped and I stacked it in a single row and measured and I got approx. 140 cu.ft.
Best of all, the going price hereabouts right now is $180 per cord (csd). and this cost me 150/.. And this is going to become a regular supplier. apparently he lost his customer list because of the 5 month strike last year, so he had to advertise for the first time in 5 years.
Know what though? I will still buy at least 2 cords a year from my longtime suppplier at 180 a cord. and will try and split my needs evenly between the two, even though it is tempting to go with the cheapest. I`m thinking it is kinda like the employment thing-never burn bridges,, takes too damn long to rebuild them.
A modified 1-ton dually with a dump box will haul a cord and a half, no problem...that ain’t yer father’s pickup. One of my trusted wood suppliers can safely bring me a cord and a half in an old modified 3/4-ton, with a dana 60 rear axle, non-stock suspension & brakes, and 4’ reinforced expanded metal fences around the bed. His son can bring two cords at a time in his modified dually. These are guys who’ve learned the hard way by trying to haul more wood out of the forest than the rig could handle, and figured out what sort of equipment they really needed to get the job done. A truck’s got to know its limitations. Rick
If it’s a Tacoma TRD not much !
The springs are already bent backwards.
Trailer.
Don’t let that fool you. They are quite capable trucks. I use a tacoma to haul my trailer with and it is rated to tow 5600 lbs. Also have loaded the short 6’ bed down with shingles, wood, and other things with no problems. It handles quite nicely loaded.
Put both sides of this sheds old roofing on it and took it to the free dump day for our township.....almost like free wood.
FYI..always load with the thought of having to STOP if some asshat cuts you off going 50 down the highway then hits the brakes.
You must be able to stop, to much weight, and the load is going to propel you, regardless of your weight limits.
I drive an F250 8’ bed, and tow a 2 horse goose neck trailer with a 10’ extended dressing room (Long Island Sound ferry measurements are 38’ long) in all kinds of traffic.
You have to be able to stop. It is mucho importante !!
I have a 2000. V6. 4WD TRD suspension package.
I haven’t strained the hitch nor drivetrain yet.
When loading the bed with wood I’ve been tempted to remove the bilstein’s and substitute a few splits.
It took me ten years to wear out the springs in the 88 to look like these.
Keep saying I’m going to put some real load carrying springs in it some day. Now that I have a tractor to go in the woods with that will never happen.
They [trd package] handle speed bumps and pot holes well.
I’ve filled the bed with fresh cut cherry. Those straining springs are not a pretty sight.
The springs in the trailer are bent the right way.
FYI..always load with the thought of having to STOP if some asshat cuts you off going 50 down the highway then hits the brakes.
You must be able to stop, to much weight, and the load is going to propel you, regardless of your weight limits.
I drive an F250 8’ bed, and tow a 2 horse goose neck trailer with a 10’ extended dressing room (Long Island Sound ferry measurements are 38’ long) in all kinds of traffic.
You have to be able to stop. It is mucho importante !!
Good thought but I don’t call others names very often. We all make mistakes for one reason or another and I am sure you have made your share to. Once in a while I will lose it calling a name while driving but my wife reminds me the other person is just like me and I realize there was no call for the name calling.
It doesn’t matter what you drive as long as you have control of your vehicle. I have never had any problems stopping my Toyota full loaded. The tandom axle trailer I tow has surge brakes on it so when that is behind the truck it is vary capable of sharing the stopping load.
That tractor looks aroundabout the same size as my JD2520 and Im going to be moving (hopefully, I’ve got it all set to jack up) a shed 10x14 that looks quite a bit like that one about 50 feet.
That tractor looks aroundabout the same size as my JD2520 and Im going to be moving (hopefully, I’ve got it all set to jack up) a shed 10x14 that looks quite a bit like that one about 50 feet.
Good luck moving your shed. It should be no problem. This one is 20x12 with an 18x12 attached wood shed on the other side. No moving it. My tractor is orange but probably not much different than the green ones. It is a 16 hp which does everything I need. I purchased one of the first 16 hp Kubota’s when they came out 30 or so years ago. Used it for everything including snowblowing 3 or 4 older folks drives for 20 years, then traded it in for the same as I had paid for it on this one a few years ago. Couldn’t live without one of these 4x4 tractors with our driveway to keep open. I have been eying the rtv-900 but it doesn’t have a bucket nor a lawn mower so that will have to wait.
Well I got a load of oak tonight wet as heck, I had to stop at 90% of the load in the ranger...even with the helper coils shocks it was squatting pretty good. Like others have said it is slow and steady cause brakes were not meant to handle that kind of weight!!! Asshat...by me we call them assclowns
Back in my firewood dealing days . I started out using a 1986 hd3/4 ton ford. Built 2’ racks and routinely delivered 3 face cord (~cord) cut 14"-16" with the back row stacked and the middle thrown in and rounded slightly and 4 face cord with 6 stacked rows 5 1/2’x4 1/4’. It was definitely not safe or legal, but it worked until I could afford a larger truck.
All I can tell you is watch the weight. I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7 V8 6 foot bed and I loaded it to the gills with maple, 75% water. I was settled on the leaf spring stops all the way home. But that’s what it’s made for...right?? . I told the guy to lighten the load the next time.
I had loaded concrete retaining wall block called keystone in my ranger, used 2x4’s over the frame stops...then added another 15 or so block at 110lbs a block, never again. It takes like a block to stop!!!
I work with a guy who told me he put 1 1/2 cords block in a F150!! I tried to correct him and he told me I didn’t know what I was talking about. I just wish I was selling him the wood if you know what I mean. Anyways, I pick up a load of blocks in my F250SD with 6 1/2 bed, pack it in and stack it high in the middle and when I get it home and split and stack it amounts to just shy of two face cords. I WOULD NOT recommend putting that much in a truck any smaller than a 3/4 ton for safety purposes! Just my .02$.
A cord and a half in any pickup bed is darn near impossible...mass aside I don’t think you can get that much volume ontoa pickup and not have it all over the driveway when you pull out.
That said I can easily toss about 2800-3000lb into my 3/4 ton Silverado and still be under my GVWR. I’ve probably put a solid 1/2-2/3 cord into the bed and hauled it without any drama.
My wood guy uses a dump truck. I paid him $280 for a pile of Oak and Ash, split and delivered. When I stacked it, I had two stacks that measured 4’X16’...plus a little extra. So that was a “truck load”
i wasn’t sure what to expect but I think that was a fair deal.
If the wood is 16 inchs you got 1.33 cord there. No idea what the going price is in your neck of the woods...Oak only here is approaching 300 bucks a cord and mixed is 250-280, think you did good by that measure.
A cord and a half in any pickup bed is darn near impossible...mass aside I don’t think you can get that much volume ontoa pickup and not have it all over the driveway when you pull out.
That said I can easily toss about 2800-3000lb into my 3/4 ton Silverado and still be under my GVWR. I’ve probably put a solid 1/2-2/3 cord into the bed and hauled it without any drama.
Bottom line is know your equipment.
i’ve heard of oveerloading truck & bending rear axle! never seen it but almost makes sense
You’d probably never bend your axle, but I could see severe overloading snapping your springs. In order to do that to my truck I would probably have to put 3 or 4 tons in the bed, which I would never do.
Just in case you think I’m overloading my truck though, the 3/4 ton rating does not mean its rated to hold a 1500lb load...maybe it did 50 years ago, but not anymore...its just a GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) classification...which is how much the truck is rated to weigh in total...truck, fluids, passengers and cargo. 3/4 ton menas 8600lb GVWR, so 8600lb - my 5600lb truck gives me about 3000lb safe and properly carrying capacity. 3/4 HD is 9200lb, 1 ton is 9600lb and so on. So my truck hauling 3000lb of whatever I put in the bed is right theer at the upper limit of its rated (and legal) capacity.
Other factors also apply such as the GAWR of each axle, but you get the idea.
Rick
But that’s what it’s made for...right?? 
. I told the guy to lighten the load the next time. 
