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Insulation Question for Water Storage
Posted: 22 June 2008 01:30 PM   [ Ignore ]
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I’m placing 4-500 gallon propane tanks standing on end in my polebarn. The total height will be 12 ft to the bottom of the trusses. The space is 8ft square and I will be standing them as tightly as I can get them. My original thought on insulation is to fill the cavity with fiberglass insulation. I now wondering if it would be better to fill it with “loose fill” or “blown” insulation as this appears to have more “R” value per inch as fiberglass. Once I get the boiler fired and leak check everything, I should not have to every open up the walls and get to the tanks, so my question is which would be better - fiberglass batts or loose fill? If loose filled, how much should I expect it to settle so I can figure how much to add to the top.  Attached is a photo of the tank storage area.

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Central Boiler 6048-Sold spring of 2008
EKO 60 with 2000 gallons pressurized storage in Pole Barn

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Posted: 22 June 2008 03:16 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 1 ]
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Not sure what is the better insulation but I have temporarily surrounded my tank with R-19 bottom and sides and R-38 fiberglass on the top. Been heating DHW the past two days and judging from my daily heat losses i will be adding more. Perhaps twice this amount. I still need to insulate the water lines as well.

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Posted: 22 June 2008 07:43 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 2 ]
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Hard to get too much insulation. Based on my experience, you’ll want to make sure the mice are kept out. I had some chew a tunnel through 6” of pink board to get to the inside, where they made condominiums in the fiberglass.

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Posted: 22 June 2008 08:11 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 3 ]
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Good advice.. I’ll be adding a bucket of Ropax along with the added insulation.

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Posted: 22 June 2008 10:06 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 4 ]
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in prior projects, I researched the heck out of pros and cons of various types of insulation.  dense pack cellulose holds its R-value exceptionally well with low outdoor temps, fills voids well, and repels rodents (with its borate treatment) I’d say, fill the whole area around your tanks with dense-packed cellulose using a rented insulation blower.

Trevor

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Posted: 23 June 2008 07:29 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 5 ]
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Thank you for the replies.  Looking online I see that there is alot of different types of “blown insulation” so I’ll be checking locally to see what available.

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Central Boiler 6048-Sold spring of 2008
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Posted: 23 June 2008 09:48 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 6 ]
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Checked with a local supplier. He’s recommending to use “sheet” styrofoam to line the walls and then to pour miniature styrophone balls around the tanks because the balls will hold up better if there is any moisture in the tank area. He states that the sheets have more insulating value than the loose filled balls as it is more dense. The “R” value is supposed to be between 3 to 4 per inch.

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Posted: 23 June 2008 12:49 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 7 ]
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Styrofoam- not so sure!  I’d be concerned about whether regular-grade styrofoam can handle the sustained temperatures you’ll get with a heat storage; I’d also be a bit concerned about its rather high flammability- especially given that at it’s elevated temperature in this application, it’d be that much closer to its ignition point if anything did cast a spark in it.  R-value-wise, dense-pack cellulose will do as well or better than R3 to 4 per inch, it isn’t flammable (due to the borate treatment it contains) and it keeps bugs and vermin out (again due to the borate).  And it’s basically a low-net-energy recycled product compared to any of the plastic insulations.  I have no commercial interest in the stuff, I’m just a very happy user of it in several applications.

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Trevor
COMING SOON(?)-details of my combustion and hydronic [mis?] adventures via: http://www.badasset.org
Happiness is a Sharp Chain
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stupid enough to get in (way) over my head, and (usually) smart enough to figure my way back out (quote: ...me...)
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Posted: 25 June 2008 04:17 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 8 ]
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Has anyone looked into spray polyurethane foam as an insulation method for storage tanks?  It is getting to be more common in residential construction.  The closed cell types have an R value of 5 to 7 per inch.  However, I’m not sure of how it would handle 200+ deg F temps, or how much it would cost.

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Posted: 25 June 2008 06:11 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 9 ]
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I haven’t priced spray foam, but I do know that it is more expensive than other types and I’m cheap and I like doing it myself. I think I’ll take the advise here and go with the dense-pack cellulose, but the only thing I have to research more is that the only technical data I could find is from Regal Industries (http://www.regalind.com/technical.htm) and all the products state not to use if temps go over 180 degrees. I’m awaiting answers from them as to if there is a dense-pack cellulose product that will take the heat around 200 degrees.

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Posted: 25 June 2008 09:46 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 10 ]
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sdrobertson - 25 June 2008 06:11 PM

I haven’t priced spray foam, but I do know that it is more expensive than other types and I’m cheap and I like doing it myself. I think I’ll take the advise here and go with the dense-pack cellulose, but the only thing I have to research more is that the only technical data I could find is from Regal Industries (http://www.regalind.com/technical.htm) and all the products state not to use if temps go over 180 degrees. I’m awaiting answers from them as to if there is a dense-pack cellulose product that will take the heat around 200 degrees.

You can always wrap the tanks with some kind of insualtion that can take high heat, like polyiso, for several inches and then use the cellulose to fill the rest of the cavity.  I would think that only the insulation closest to the tank will really be exposed to extremely high temp.  Here is a link http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/insulation-temperatures-d_922.html to more information on the high temp rating of various types of insulation.  I have also added the link to my tank design page on my website in my signature for future reference.

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Posted: 26 June 2008 05:41 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 11 ]
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I think you will want some access-ability: to drain, fill, and the vents for the tanks. When you stand them on end, do you have a vent on the top of each tank to get rid of air?

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Posted: 26 June 2008 06:12 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 12 ]
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I’m new to the forum but have had a Tarm Solo 60 for 2 years with 1000 gal. pressurized storage. I located the unit in my shed with 2- 500gal tanks on end surrounded with loose fill cellulose from the big box store. Settled a bit the first few months but topped off with a 2-3 additional bags of cellulose. I also lined the enclosure with 3/4” foil faced foam and used spray foam over the few inches of cellulose on top of the tanks. The vent on top of each tank extends through the insulation.

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Posted: 26 June 2008 07:00 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 13 ]
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Welcome to the forum Mark.  How high do you run the tanks up to?  Your set up sounds like exactly like I thinking about.

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Central Boiler 6048-Sold spring of 2008
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Posted: 26 June 2008 08:22 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 14 ]
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The tank temperature usually runs at 185F but I have hit 190F when the system is running full out.  I have a trerice thermometer near the top of one tank and another mid way up the other tank. They run within 5 deg of ea other when the boiler in charging. Because the tanks are on end in the shed I noticed the frost on the metal roof melt directly over the tanks. Thats when I added the spray foam cap over the cellulose on the top to minimize loss.

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Posted: 29 June 2008 01:53 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 15 ]
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Over the weekend I attended a Energy Conference and there was a salesman displaying the “newest and greatest” insulation. The product was basically 1/2 inch Styrofoam with a reflective foil sheet covering it. The display had a 1 foot square box covering a 100 watt light bulb. Metal probe thermometer reading 140 degrees inside and the outside being room temp. This got me thinking what if I placed the tanks tightly together and then built a box out of 4x8 sheets of foil backed insulation and then fill the space between the insulated box and the outside walls with dense pack cellulose and then it wouldn’t matter if the cellulose can take up to 200 degree temps. Another plus would be that if I ever do have to get to the tanks, I could run one section of the 4x8 sheets all the way to one wall and would only have to remove a 4x8 space of cellulose to get in. I’ll have air spaces around the tanks as they are round and the “box” will be square, but with taped seams, and cellulose surrounding the air space I shouldn’t get any air movement. Please, any thoughts to help me figure the best way to do this.....

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Central Boiler 6048-Sold spring of 2008
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