good...if it slows down in a few hours, walk over and open the window, then watch the flame.....you should see a change within 30 seconds...better yet, let someone else open the window and you watch it. If it brightens, u need outside air.
good...if it slows down in a few hours, walk over and open the window, then watch the flame.....you should see a change within 30 seconds...better yet, let someone else open the window and you watch it. If it brightens, u need outside air.
It slowed down in about 10 minutes....I got frustrated and turned the pellet feed to <2 and took a shower....I came down and it looks better. I am going to leave it alone like you said for an hour now and then open a window.
This is regarding the damper: I took the cover plate off and it is REALLY tough to get back there to see the opening. But with a flashlight and a mirror I am able to see the thing. It is closed...or at least it appears to be closed. I can see a “round flap” and it is closed. I cannot touch it to see if it is loose...but should it be swung open? I am not sure i can get a picture of it..
round flapper? yeah, that sounds right...with the stove running, it should be OPEN.....thats how the air gets in the stove...just bend a wore or something if you cant get back there and see if its swinging freely.....if that thing isnt open, its likely the source or at least an indicator of your issue....def should be OPEN while the stove is running....no ifs, ands or buts
round flapper? yeah, that sounds right...with the stove running, it should be OPEN.....thats how the air gets in the stove...just bend a wore or something if you cant get back there and see if its swinging freely.....if that thing isnt open, its likely the source or at least an indicator of your issue....def should be OPEN while the stove is running....no ifs, ands or buts
It does swing freely...but it is in the down position right now. or at least its 85% down..so maybe this is correct?
go ahead and put the stove in TEST mode, THEN see how much it opens.....depending upon the speed of the combustion fan, the damper will open more or less.
round flapper? yeah, that sounds right...with the stove running, it should be OPEN.....thats how the air gets in the stove...just bend a wore or something if you cant get back there and see if its swinging freely.....if that thing isnt open, its likely the source or at least an indicator of your issue....def should be OPEN while the stove is running....no ifs, ands or buts
It does swing freely...but it is in the down position right now. or at least its 85% down..so maybe this is correct?
Is your window open when you checked this? if it is and the flapper is still closed then your combustion blower is not set right ie: draft adjustment, or there is a blockage in the flue or maybe even under the burn pot where the air actually flows
go ahead and put the stove in TEST mode, THEN see how much it opens.....depending upon the speed of the combustion fan, the damper will open more or less.
If it is a draft issue your manual describes the best ways to vent your stove. Though exceptable directly out the back, but not recomended
The best solution is to have 3 to 6’ verticle rise before the exit spelled out in your manual.
If it is a draft issue your manual describes the best ways to vent your stove. Though exceptable directly out the back, but not recomended
The best solution is to have 3 to 6’ verticle rise before the exit spelled out in your manual.
Actualy he can go out then up too.
His biggest problem being no outside air in his newer house and his air intake not opening. He can check his draft by watching his flame behavior but should have it checked by his dealer. Unfortunatly his dealertold him outside air was not needed. If he can tell us what the voltage at the outlet is we can help confirm that his combustion blower is not turning fast enough. Although at a minimum the dealer should come out and draft check it after he takes care of the venting and air intake…
Tundra have you checked the flapper on test with the window open yet and watched the flame?
If it is a draft issue your manual describes the best ways to vent your stove. Though exceptable directly out the back, but not recomended
The best solution is to have 3 to 6’ verticle rise before the exit spelled out in your manual.
Actualy he can go out then up too.
His biggest problem being no outside air in his newer house and his air intake not opening. He can check his draft by watching his flame behavior but should have it checked by his dealer. Unfortunatly his dealertold him outside air was not needed. If he can tell us what the voltage at the outlet is we can help confirm that his combustion blower is not turning fast enough. Although at a minimum the dealer should come out and draft check it after he takes care of the venting and air intake…
Tundra have you checked the flapper on test with the window open yet and watched the flame?
No I have not checked that yet...But i will do that. Plus it is warm enough outside to have the windows open today. I plan on calling my dealertomorrow. Thanks for everyones help.
with my slider open (BBQ’ing some wings for the Pats game) and some windows open the flame DOES seel lighter in color and more active. Plus it is not climbing to the top of the glass. backdraft damper is still about 85% closed.
Just so you know the airflow in your stove draft etc. Comb blower runs and draws the air through the air intake and through those holes in the burnpot. Exact path of air here would be air comes through damper and under burnpot then through the holes through the airspace between heat exchanger and the plates to the comb blower and out the pipe. (Harry may confirm this with more specifics) This is just a simple way of describing the flow.
If you had a decent flame pattern in the beginning and now it is leaning toward the glass and your draft has not been setup right, then chances are under the burnpot is starting to get packed with ash which is lowering airflow (draft) even more. Those flames should be blown back toward the back wall and not towards the glass. The 2 wingnuts provide access to this area for cleanout… There shouldn’t be much in there because it’s a new install unless there was a draft problem.
Just a heads up there for you for future reference when watching the flame pattern after everything is fixed.
Keep us informed when everything is fixed up.
Thanks
Just so you know the airflow in your stove draft etc. Comb blower runs and draws the air through the air intake and through those holes in the burnpot. Exact path of air here would be air comes through damper and under burnpot then through the holes through the airspace between heat exchanger and the plates to the comb blower and out the pipe. (Harry may confirm this with more specifics) This is just a simple way of describing the flow.
If you had a decent flame pattern in the beginning and now it is leaning toward the glass and your draft has not been setup right, then chances are under the burnpot is starting to get packed with ash which is lowering airflow (draft) even more. Those flames should be blown back toward the back wall and not towards the glass. The 2 wingnuts provide access to this area for cleanout… There shouldn’t be much in there because it’s a new install unless there was a draft problem.
Just a heads up there for you for future reference when watching the flame pattern after everything is fixed.
Keep us informed when everything is fixed up.
Thanks
Thanks.....I am powering down the stove to investigate that now…
I cleaned out the burnpot and removed the wingnuts and there was a decent amount of ash built up. I vacummed the entire stove and it has been burning great for about an hour....I am not going to touch a thing the rest of the day.
sounds good but You most likely still have a draft problem this is just a quick fix, but it will keep happening till everything is perfect. The air should keep the ash out of there for the most part till you are at least through about a half ton.
I have the same stove and the same Pellets.
I also see strange green/yellow colors in the base of the flame from time to time.
I however am using the outside air intake setup…
Im going to keep an eye on this thread.
Ya know. I just read this thread again and now Im wondering.
I have the outside air. and I have lazy flames that touch the glass.
I have the identical set up to you in regards to vent pipe also. I’m guessing we dont have sufficent draft.
I have looked at ebay and a magnehelic gauge isnt that expensive.
I would be into buying one to check it out…
I have the same stove and the same Pellets.
I also see strange green/yellow colors in the base of the flame from time to time.
I however am using the outside air intake setup…
Im going to keep an eye on this thread.
Ya know. I just read this thread again and now Im wondering.
I have the outside air. and I have lazy flames that touch the glass.
I have the identical set up to you in regards to vent pipe also. I’m guessing we dont have sufficent draft.
I have looked at ebay and a magnehelic gauge isnt that expensive.
I would be into buying one to check it out…
Magnehelics come in about 100 different ranges I’m sure e-bay won’t have the right one for you draft measurement though
I have the same stove and the same Pellets.
I also see strange green/yellow colors in the base of the flame from time to time.
I however am using the outside air intake setup…
Im going to keep an eye on this thread.
Ya know. I just read this thread again and now Im wondering.
I have the outside air. and I have lazy flames that touch the glass.
I have the identical set up to you in regards to vent pipe also. I’m guessing we dont have sufficent draft.
I have looked at ebay and a magnehelic gauge isnt that expensive.
I would be into buying one to check it out…
Magnehelics come in about 100 different ranges I’m sure e-bay won’t have the right one for you draft measurement though
I looked up the range on my stove… I need something that will read between -.30 W.C and -.60 W.C.
I spoke with my stove shop again yesterday.
He claims that with the direct vent system they sell they very rarely if ever have to adjust the voltage.
He suggested I put the stove to stove temp mode at ~ #4 and feed rate 3 and see what happens.
Well...I woke up this am to a house that was 78*.... which is nice but the hopper of the stove, which I filled before I went to bed was 3/4 empty. Im guessing about a bag burned overnight. oops.
but You most likely still have a draft problem this is just a quick fix, but it will keep happening till everything is perfect. The air should keep the ash out of there for the most part till you are at least through about a half ton. 
