I would like to turn off the oil furnace all together except for the winter. Seems like it would be good enough for the warmer months.
I’m sure it would work well if you actually have the power needed to feed one… most average homes don’t.
All that is required is at least a 200 amp service to connect the 50amp disconnects
That’s a lot of power, most homes don’t have this kind of surplus sitting in reserve. If yours does, and electricity is cheap in your area, this looks like it might be a great fit for you.
I would like to turn off the oil furnace all together except for the winter. Seems like it would be good enough for the warmer months.
I’m sure it would work well if you actually have the power needed to feed one… most average homes don’t.
All that is required is at least a 200 amp service to connect the 50amp disconnects
That’s a lot of power, most homes don’t have this kind of surplus sitting in reserve. If yours does, and electricity is cheap in your area, this looks like it might be a great fit for you.
See attached image for electric rates - I live in TAXachusettes
I would like to turn off the oil furnace all together except for the winter. Seems like it would be good enough for the warmer months.
I am not an expert in this area but from what I have read, and seen firsthand with my electric water heater I don’t see how a tank less water heater is cost effective. I think we can agree that any savings for a tankless is due to eliminating standby loss. The same amount of energy is needed to heat the water. The water heater I just installed is an older one with R16 insulation, I added an additional 4 ” of fiberglass to increase it to about R28. My heater will go for over 15 hr without heating (No hot water being used).
It runs about 15 min/24 hr to maintain heat. I think that’s about .15 cents worth of electricity. It would probably be more that 25 years to see a payback.
You may be better off with a good quality tank water heater.
Those are just the energy rates. You failed to post the other charges National Grid has too.
The total cost per KWh is actually $0.147 right now when you add in the rest of the charges (distribution, transmission, etc.)
True enough - MA has high rates for EVERYTHING. Makes me want to move.
WAY off the topic area, and if I see a lot of further discussion on it, I will dump the offending posts (or move them to the ashcan) but Carla Howell and friends will be working to put a referendum question on the 2010 ballot to roll the sales tax back to 3%.... http://www.centerforsmallgov.com for details… I figure it can’t hurt, even if the legislature does try to ignore it like they have done w/ other measures in the past…
I’m doing the hour meter thing right now. I changed from a tankless to a cold start boiler with an indirect. My conclusion: A BTU is A BTU Is a BTU. There may be stack losses from a poorly insulated boiler compared to a tank, but its not worth the $700 it cost for the tank or the $1500 it would have cost for installation had I not done it myself. I’m a little disappointed at how fast I’m buring through the liquid. I’m using about 2.5 gal/day right now, with mean outside temps right now about 45 degrees F. I use 200 gallons of hot water a day, and I’m guessing I’m burning between 1.2 and 1.5 gallons just for hot water. From May to October I burned about 200 gallons. That puts my system efficiency at about 75-80%, which I would call optimistic, because I’m not counting the 5 minutes someone runs the water before the shower warms up.
