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adding on a bedroom [updated 11/15, new pics]
Posted: 13 October 2009 07:25 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 16 ]
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Great job man.  I’d love to know if you do indeed get it all done in three weekends.  I remember when I could work like that.  I miss it.  Thanks for sharing.  As far as joist hangars, you didn’t need them for that application.  My house is 178 years old and it ain’t because it’s got joist hangars.  The code is for dummies that don’t know how things work.
Again, great job.

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Posted: 18 October 2009 07:24 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 17 ]
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I think we’re missing the obvious…. nice stacks of wood

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Posted: 18 October 2009 07:38 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 18 ]
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Got a lot done this weekend… about what I wanted to.  I’m ready to put the metal on the roof next weekend.

IMG_6080.jpg

IMG_6083.jpg

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Posted: 18 October 2009 07:41 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 19 ]
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Great job man.  You’re quite the hustler.
Stand-by for the critics.

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Posted: 18 October 2009 08:08 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 20 ]
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kenny chaos - 18 October 2009 07:41 PM

Great job man.  You’re quite the hustler.
Stand-by for the critics.

Thanks.  I got crackin’ at sunrise both days this weekend.  I told the wife I’d probably have it done (well, livable) around the first weekend of November, so there are “expectations”

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Posted: 18 October 2009 08:37 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 21 ]
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OH CRAP EXPECTATIONS bad very bad

lookin good to me but I am just a country boy.

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Posted: 18 October 2009 11:04 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 22 ]
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I’ve got to say, with the walls and roof framed it looks huge, when it was just the deck it didn’t look that big! way to go!

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Posted: 19 October 2009 05:50 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 23 ]
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I built the same size add-on almost the exact same way blocks.
Mine sags badly in one corner from settling and block erosion.
Consider adding two more blocks to the corners and maybe a jack also on the far corners.
Mine is a sun style porch rather than a nicer add-on like yours so it has all windows.
I wish I could resolve my issue without ripping up the floor and applying the solution from the inside.
Too late now.

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Posted: 19 October 2009 09:13 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 24 ]
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rowerwet - 18 October 2009 11:04 PM

I’ve got to say, with the walls and roof framed it looks huge, when it was just the deck it didn’t look that big! way to go!

Yeah, it’s pretty tall.  I wanted to follow the existing roof so I didn’t have to fool with a gable roof and flashing.

Ratman - 19 October 2009 05:50 AM

I built the same size add-on almost the exact same way blocks.
Mine sags badly in one corner from settling and block erosion.
Consider adding two more blocks to the corners and maybe a jack also on the far corners.
Mine is a sun style porch rather than a nicer add-on like yours so it has all windows.
I wish I could resolve my issue without ripping up the floor and applying the solution from the inside.
Too late now.

I’m hoping that the concrete pads I poured will limit settling, but if it doesn’t the underpinning will be in 8’ removable panels so I’ll have access to jack up and re-level if I need to. *fingers-crossed*

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Posted: 19 October 2009 11:52 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 25 ]
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your room is looking great!  Something you might consider doing that’s not expensive but makes a huge difference in efficiency and comfort is caulking.  Fiberglass will stop cold from radiating but the air can still get in.  Run a bead of caulk along the subfloor and bottom plate.  You can also do the seams on the subfloor and when the sheathing goes on, caulk along the top plate and sheathing in each stud cavity.  Also where the new room attaches to the house.  You can do the whole stud cavity to eliminate air movement in the walls.  The contractor box of ALEX caulk is not expensive and will keep cold out in winter and humidity out in summer.

Yesterday we found a 14/ gap between the sheathing and top plate in our corner bedroom.  That corner was always cold and we had an ice dam in that corner roof a couple of winters ago.  As soon as I caulked it warmed right up.  Hubby is going to caulk each gable end like that from the attic.

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Posted: 19 October 2009 12:05 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 26 ]
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tutu_sue - 19 October 2009 11:52 AM

your room is looking great!  Something you might consider doing that’s not expensive but makes a huge difference in efficiency and comfort is caulking.  Fiberglass will stop cold from radiating but the air can still get in.  Run a bead of caulk along the subfloor and bottom plate.  You can also do the seams on the subfloor and when the sheathing goes on, caulk along the top plate and sheathing in each stud cavity.  Also where the new room attaches to the house.  You can do the whole stud cavity to eliminate air movement in the walls.  The contractor box of ALEX caulk is not expensive and will keep cold out in winter and humidity out in summer.

Yesterday we found a 14/ gap between the sheathing and top plate in our corner bedroom.  That corner was always cold and we had an ice dam in that corner roof a couple of winters ago.  As soon as I caulked it warmed right up.  Hubby is going to caulk each gable end like that from the attic.

Hey that’s a great idea!  I’ll definetly do that since I have a whole case of caulk left from when we remodeled the inside of the house.

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Posted: 20 October 2009 11:54 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 27 ]
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I use silicone caulk on all stud bays, top plate, bottom rim, everywhere, it makes a huge difference. Not a breeze to be felt.
I was up in the attic Sunday till midnight crawling around stuffing all wire holes with steel wool and siliconing. Have a mouse up there, and want him gone, I think I caught him in the trap, will release him today at the wetlands.
My attic is all trusses and I can’t stand up in it, and most of the wire runs were along the outside walls, not the most pleasant time, but its near do near now.
Also found the misr chewed at the wood sheathing n both sides of the chimney. I stuffed one side with coarse steel wool, and left a spot on the other for the mouse to get out before I completely seal it up.
Might take some mortar up there and lay it over top the steel wool to full the gap.
A couple words of caution to anyone working in a low attic or near the eaves. Don’t bang your head into the roofing nails coming through the roof sheathing, it tend to hurt. And if siliconing, it is kind of strong up there, and may may ya gag a lil. wink

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Posted: 21 October 2009 07:50 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 28 ]
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Hog, Thats funny about the mouse. Think you only have one? They do look the same.

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Posted: 21 October 2009 07:23 PM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 29 ]
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yeah, about those “expectations”.... just got in from screwing down metal roofing in the dark with 1000 watts of halogen shining up on the roof.  as the sun was going down, and we had 3 pieces screwed down the wife says “if you get a spotlight you could get the rest done in about 30 minutes”

thanks honey!

anyway, we got 5 of 6 pieces up, just have to rip the last one to about 1.5’ or so and the metal is knocked out

obviously no pics since it’s been dark about an hour smile

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Posted: 22 October 2009 07:24 AM   [ Ignore ]   [ # 30 ]
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m0jumb0 - 21 October 2009 07:23 PM

yeah, about those “expectations”.... just got in from screwing down metal roofing in the dark with 1000 watts of halogen shining up on the roof.  as the sun was going down, and we had 3 pieces screwed down the wife says “if you get a spotlight you could get the rest done in about 30 minutes”

thanks honey!

anyway, we got 5 of 6 pieces up, just have to rip the last one to about 1.5’ or so and the metal is knocked out

obviously no pics since it’s been dark about an hour smile

It’s tough to get work done in the evenings this time of year . . . it gets dark so soon . . . it seemed like only two or three weeks ago I could at least work until 7 p.m. or so before it got too dark to see . . . now I have to pack it up by 6:15 p.m.

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