Cant stay away from corn fuel, everything has 10% in it here.

Just ordered a copy of the woodcutters book. a another 50 cents for Eric

Well, I hope you guys like the book.

You can make your own ripping chain, babs, by filing a used, regular chain straight across, i.e., no angle. It’s a lot of work, but the chain will last a good, long time.

I always put premium gas in my saws.

Thanks for that Eric, I have a chain that is a perfect candidate.
Even extra care with a ripping chain
Work smerk, my neighbor has one of them ELECTRIC sharpeners, long as I dont get it too hot I should be able to get it done pretty quick with that.

Premium gas it is. I was running 93 before and ran out. All I had was the 87 I use in the lawnmowers. Didnt notice an appreciable difference but then that was when I started touching up the chain after each tank so I attributed the better performance to the chain.
Will probably be even better going back to 93+ AND keeping the chain sharp.

My winterizing or Summerizing or I think I’m done cutting wood for a while, check list CHAIN SAWS;
1. Fill chain oilier with oil.
2. Sharpen the chain.
3. File the chain height gauges.
4. Remove bar, file flat, clean out the chain grove and grease tip sprocket.
5. Remove air filter; clean or buy a new one.
6. With saw disabled clean off all wood chips and oil.
On modern barker-less ignitions I use engine cleaner (GUNK) sprayed on the whole motor and housing. With a rag in the carburetor opening and choke on, a garden hose pressure bath for every thing to force the chips and oil out, but not into the exhaust port. Next the motor is sun dried or I use an air hose and hair drier to speed drying.
7. Replace or repair any broken, missing or worn parts. Reassemble the saw tightening all loose fasteners using RED Locktight, rotate the bar bottom to top. Start it and run until it is worm lubing chain with oilier, stop the motor then drain all fuel. Restart the motor, use choke to help drain all gas from motor, after it stalls try to re start.
8. Remove the spark plug clean it or get a new one.
9. Add 2 Tablespoons of 2-cycle or fogging oil into the cylinder, pour or spray fogging oil into to carburetor opening. Then turn over the engine (pull starter cord) slowly with ignition switch off to coat inside with oils.
11. Replace spark plug
12. Store with chain cover in place or in chain saw storage box if available.

The thread should be stated “Summer-izing your chainsaw” for the home owner.

As soon as I ‘winterize’ or do my maintenance in anticipation of putting it away....that’s when a load of nice free wood appears. I literally winterized today...big clean up, everything...so maybe that means a nice load of maple is coming my way!

downeast - 11 November 2006 09:16 PM

Why “winterize” your saw, that’s for our boats.
Winter is when we do most our woodlot work except for extreme snowfall. Best time to cut next winters’ firewood and commercial wood. It’s cooler. No bugs !! Easier to move you and heavy gear in otherwise wet or mucky woodlands. Skidding on frozen or snowy ground is smoother and slick. Less damage to soft ground. Need more ?
Don’t you get all heated up cutting ?
We put our saws to bed for the hot month(s): July.

The best scrounging around here is after summer thunderstorms. I do not fell trees. I leave that to loggers AKA (Pros or them topmast men with saws) and the wind.

A good ice storm will get my saw out though. I like ice storms every things silver and the sounds of fire wood falling from trees.

The Summer Scrounge is on!!!
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/2019/

Wood Scrounge Update
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/2405/