Hello all.
I am looking for ideas on what to use for a hearth under my stand alone pellet stove.
Any ideas would be welcome and pics also would be nice.
The make up and size of the pad should be detailed in your installation owners manual. If you have a pedestal
stove then you may just need a non combustiable surface, like tile, brick or slate. If resistance to thermal conductivity,
( some R, K. or U value),
is spected, then post what the specs requirements, are and many here can advise a way to contstruct a compliant attracctive pad
I used one big piece of slate that was reclaimed slate from an old school in my area. It was much cheaper than “new slate” and I like the idea that it is recycled. The piece is about 54” x 45”. It is a little hard to keep clean but I assume that any hearth material is with all of the ash and wood debris. I cut into my hardwood floor so that the slate would be as flush to the floor as possible. I used Micore under the slate for the R value I needed but the slate only raises off the floor about 1/3”.
Hello all.
I am looking for ideas on what to use for a hearth under my stand alone pellet stove.
Any ideas would be welcome and pics also would be nice.
Thanks
Matt
I’ve seen everything from pea stone to broken glass shards used as well as the normal stuff like slate , slab stone and ceramics .
Anything that don’t burn or cause heat buildup .
I made a 2x4 frame, sheeted with 1/2” Hardibacker over 3/4” MDF, and porclain tile, set with thinset morter, then used sanded grout. Added the wood trim, and painted to match. I used a diamond wet/dry blade in my circular saw to cut the tile and backer board.
Easy for just a pellet stove. My manual stated only 1/4” thickness for floor protection. The sales person at one store said he just put the tile over concrete board and used constuction adhesive to set the tile and attach the wood trim. I guess I would be concerned about what might happen to the adhesive after it dries and shrinks. and also its combustable quality.
The main thing is to find the proper clearances for your particular stove. It was a fun little project.
But I think I have made up my mind..I am gonna use some 1/2” floor tile I have already...thinset it to floor and use an Oak reducer I will make to finish it off...cheap, quick and complete.....at least for now.....In fall of next yesr i will be re-doing the living room and then i will install some marble, but for cost reason right now....this will be more than enough!
But thank you all for the ideas and of course I would stll love to see more
I used one big piece of slate that was reclaimed slate from an old school in my area. It was much cheaper than “new slate” and I like the idea that it is recycled. The piece is about 54” x 45”. It is a little hard to keep clean but I assume that any hearth material is with all of the ash and wood debris. I cut into my hardwood floor so that the slate would be as flush to the floor as possible. I used Micore under the slate for the R value I needed but the slate only raises off the floor about 1/3”.
I found it on-line through a distributor. I live in Cincinnati and the closest place that had it was five hours away. So, I managed to convince a dealer in Illinois to ship it to me. He cut the sheet 4’ x 8’ into four pieces and sent it. If you look up Micore on the internet you can find a list of dealers. Perhaps there is one in your area?
You manual is coming soon. Unless you canceled the order.
Email us your order # just to be sure
But the manual does not have any R factors in it.
All clearances are listed on the UL label on the stove
Must have a non combustible under it and 8” in front of it
Do not tile right to the wood floor.
Always use some kind of cement backer board for few reasons
One thin set sticks better to cement board better
And the most importantly is that Grout does not have a very high R factor and a UL listed cement backer board will take care of the R factor requirements for a pellet stove.
If the grout cracks then you have no protection to wood
OK i understand ya...but also you should know that if you use thinset....you should use the latex addative to mix with instead of water...it will adhere to anything...glass...stainless steel.etc;
the latex addative can be mixed with the grout also.....it turns the sandy thinset and grout to more like a glue with awesome adhersion and strength.