Yes, I have put a lot of roll roofing on in my days, and it served me well in those situations where you can’t see it and you just need the lowest cost and quickest job - and even then we used the double coverage and cemented the seams.
As I said, there is rot and leakage, but since you can see daylight through the roof at a lot of areas, I suspect the rot is due to the fact that water has been getting under those shingle layers from above for years.
So what is this about exposure? I’m guess at that 4/12 since it looks like an easy walk-on. It has been shingled twice and I don’t think it is 3/12
So I guess I will just follow the directions on the shingle package?
Do folks still use an upside down one along the rake......or do they use the starter strip that comes with some shingles?
Dang, I really hope I don’t have to plywood the roof - because then I will question the rafters, and then there is no end. Maybe I will be smart and start by removing only one side so I see what I have in store. Then I can always give it a temp tar-paper while I stew about how far to go.
I hate to say it, but more info needed LOL.
I missed the part of it leaking in several ares. What are the rafters centers? 16” or 24”? What thickness (I’m guessing plywood) or if old enough planks?
The problem with a low slope shingle roof is, if the deck sags between the rafter, then it creates a small pool, and with not enough slope, the water looks for the lowest spot to run to. If the roof is leaking higher up from the eave, then ice & water shield will ohly help down there, but not where the leaks up higher are. If the shigles are deteriorated enough, the daylight you see might be from missing chunks of shingles and not necessarily the slope.
I’m getting ‘dizzy’ following this one...lol
Hog… He also stated above he has aluminum ice barriers on one side.
I’de be willing to bet the eaves are ‘junk’ (fairly notorious on them thare old one car garages).
80 year old garage??? Betting on a ‘plank deck’. If thats the case...see if it will ‘hold a nail’...if it does...buy a few 1 x 6 rough cut boards and just “replace the horrible spots”. Plywood? (you said it yourself Web...the garage is a potential ‘tear down candidate’) Forget the plywood...if you do decide on plywood...go with 1/4 Loo (laun?) just to keep the “smooth look” (and keep the weight down)...but Yeah...as Hog suggested…
Some pictures would help in the discussion…
Rip it...Take some pics...and then tarp it.
Web??? Out of curiousity??? Is their place close by your homestead or is there some “travelin” involved???
Agreed on the planks. Which makes it easier. Problem might be, they may be true boards. If thats the case replace the bad with One by’s & fill in the low spots with a shingle. Usually makes it perfect level with the old true planks.
I decided against the ice and snow - no gutters, and no heat.
Removed both sides today, repaired a lot of small holes and areas where board were split - used copper and brass pieces I had around the shop. Placed drip edge on, and tar papered one side. It is definitely at least 4/12, maybe 5 - I almost lost my son-in-law when he danced off it (tar paper slipped under him), but he is a hockey player and just “went with the fall”, landed on his feet and said he was OK - he has to play hockey tonight!
Almost all the wood was good! Had to replace a small piece of fascia on one side- and other other side does not even have a facia (see pic), but I will nail something up there to take the aluminum facing which will go there - I’m going to side over those vertical shingles.
OK, so almost time to shingle. What do I do at the peak? It does have gable vents and is not that tight - Do I need to vent the ridge? If so, I’d have to cut some wood away, since the board meet at the top - heck, it lasted 80 years as it is.....
Is not, do I just run the shingles up to about an inch shore, and then use the old method of cutting tabs and folding them over the ridge?
I’m getting old -and am somewhat, but no totally comfortable on the roof with nothing to “save” me....I can do the starter course from the step ladder, but should I use some sort of roof jack - or just a nailed two-by-four at the bottom for safety....of course, I’d have to patch a few nail or screw holes that way.
I decided against the ice and snow - no gutters, and no heat.
Removed both sides today, repaired a lot of small holes and areas where board were split - used copper and brass pieces I had around the shop. Placed drip edge on, and tar papered one side. It is definitely at least 4/12, maybe 5 - I almost lost my son-in-law when he danced off it (tar paper slipped under him), but he is a hockey player and just “went with the fall”, landed on his feet and said he was OK - he has to play hockey tonight!
Almost all the wood was good! Had to replace a small piece of fascia on one side- and other other side does not even have a facia (see pic), but I will nail something up there to take the aluminum facing which will go there - I’m going to side over those vertical shingles.
OK, so almost time to shingle. What do I do at the peak? It does have gable vents and is not that tight - Do I need to vent the ridge? If so, I’d have to cut some wood away, since the board meet at the top - heck, it lasted 80 years as it is.....
Is not, do I just run the shingles up to about an inch shore, and then use the old method of cutting tabs and folding them over the ridge?
Decking look pretty damn good for 80 years old. I bet you found the nails don’t come out of the planks as easy as they do in plywood. And two roofs worth makes it even more a pain in the arse. That pitch by looking at photos mind you look s to me like at least a 6 maybe more. No need to short course. Just run 5” exposure. Theres plenty of pitch there, and that no wheres near a 4. I would bet somewheres between a 6 and 8/12 pitch.
At the peak, just run both sides up enough that your tar line is about 1” or more above where your hips will cover. Yes just cut the 3 tabs into separate hips. Chalk a line on one side, and as you nail the hips on, fold them in half, not creasing them, just a nice arch, they will lay better over the peak & be much easier to line up.
Start the hips from the furthest point (back?) of the roof from normal view on the ground(front?). That way you don’t see all the lil seams & lines on the hips. If your not running ridge vent, then the side you finish shingling on, just let the top flap up & over the peak back to the other side and nail it tight. Just make sure its not so long that it will hang out the bottom of the hips when you install them. I doubt you need any ridge vent, its not living space. The gable vents should do fine. If you really want to put ridge vent on, if there is soffit under the eaves, it must be vented for the ridge vent to be effective( the two go hand in hand, without one the other is useless). And yes you will want to rip (cut) about 1"-1-1/2" off the top board each side. I suggest, when you side the the garage. Get a good size triangular gable vent for each rake side, cut holes where existing ones are, and install the newer bit larger gable vents. That should be plenty. Those ones there look like heating duct registers, and are a bit small.
I’m getting old -and am somewhat, but no totally comfortable on the roof with nothing to “save” me....I can do the starter course from the step ladder, but should I use some sort of roof jack - or just a nailed two-by-four at the bottom for safety....of course, I’d have to patch a few nail or screw holes that way.
If you have 2 step ladders and a nice plank, it will be easier to run the first few courses from there. Then either use 2” x 4“‘s or roof jacks. First off, either one you use, I wouldn’t nail through the new shingles face. I lift the tabs up where nailing and slide the jack or board up under enough that when I nail in INTO A RAFTER, when I am done, I pull the nails from the board, then just lay the tab back down & wallah holes covered. If your using roof jacks, they slide off the nails when removed (don’t pound the nails home) and then after jacks are removes, then pound nails home. Both done under a few tabs, then no holes and no caulk needed. If you do want to just nail a board through the shingles, after pulling the nails, put a lil caulk under the tabs that were nailed through, then just set the tab back down over the caulk. It will ooze out, wipe excess away. And if you want to get real fancy, I always rubbed two shingle tabs faces together and rubbed enough of the colored granulars off for a handful, then sprinkle it on the top of the caulk, and press in a lil bit. Once done, you will never be able to find that hole or caulk again. Lots of tricks of the trade LOL.
Yeah, I’ll set up a board with the step ladders or possibly even rent a piece or two of scaffold since the rental place is around the corner....that way, I’ll be able to stage the shingles up there also.
Yes, I guess it is 5 or 6/12 - maybe I am not getting as old as I think....could stand and stay on it easily, but would not want to to do so without safety measures if it were much higher!
Soffits are vented - that whole damn garage is vented - maybe I’ll use a little of that peak venting stuff - the mesh that you put under the top shingle cap. It’s not a very hot building, as the higher house and trees shade it.
Yeah, I’ll set up a board with the step ladders or possibly even rent a piece or two of scaffold since the rental place is around the corner....that way, I’ll be able to stage the shingles up there also.
Yes, I guess it is 5 or 6/12 - maybe I am not getting as old as I think....could stand and stay on it easily, but would not want to to do so without safety measures if it were much higher!
Soffits are vented - that whole damn garage is vented - maybe I’ll use a little of that peak venting stuff - the mesh that you put under the top shingle cap. It’s not a very hot building, as the higher house and trees shade it.
thanks again.
Anytime, glad to help.
You could get the cobra vent or similar, spaghetti like ridge vent, that you unroll , tack down, and shingle over. You can use the tabs for hips as usual. If your not real big on looks, and I know I said in other threads to not use, But economically, the aluminum 10’ length ridge vent is prolly cheapest. It is only a garage after all. And no hips needed. just cut your plywood to have a space for air as usual, then nail the aluminum ridge cap over top, caulk nail heads, Done. I would at least use ring or twist shank nails with that stuff. Regular roofing nails tend to back out after time with this ridge vent.
If you nail a few boards strategicaly horizontally across decking over the tar paper as you go. You can set your bundles of shigles out and not have to go up & down a ladder. But on an 2-1/2 sq roof. Your only looking at 10 or so bundles for the whole job anyways.
We use the sharkskin now on roofs, other than needing plastic cap nails, it’s good stuff. Never walk on it if there is even a drop of water on it, unless you like the 10-yard freestyle bobsled! Not sure if it’s worth the extra cost, surely not needed for this project.
A well-installed steel roof can last up to 100 years or more if it’s maintained. I have snow dogs on my garage so the door doesn’t get blocked by falling snow and ice. Cost is always a factor, though.
This roof is 2 1/2 sq per side, so five total....I decided to take a road trip, so I will shingle it during the weekend.... I used to lay one square an hour, but I’m sure I will do it at 1/2 the speed or less now.....luckily, no rain in the forecast!
This roof is 2 1/2 sq per side, so five total....I decided to take a road trip, so I will shingle it during the weekend.... I used to lay one square an hour, but I’m sure I will do it at 1/2 the speed or less now.....luckily, no rain in the forecast!
12’ X 22’? ah, looking at pics that per side, yes you have 528 sf, so 5-1/2sq will do. Don’t forget to figure your hips and starters in.
Hope your using a nail gun?
By the time one rolls out the cords the air hose ,me with the shingler’s hatchet ,I have 2 bundles already laid down. . If one is using ladders to get the starters down the gun hose will only get in the way and it will not save any time till rooffng brackets and staging is installed. Hell 5.5 squares is not even worth using a gun on let alone $70 for coil
nails.. ITs still ok to use a hammer or shingler’s hatchet. Not every thing has to be air driven
Even setting up & hoses, I betcha I can put down one side of that roof before your roofing hatchet does even 1/4 of a side
Tap tap tap tap is no contest to pow pow pow pow. But I do understand your meaning
By the time one rolls out the cords the air hose ,me with the shingler’s hatchet ,I have 2 bundles already laid down. . If one is using ladders to get the starters down the gun hose will only get in the way and it will not save any time till rooffng brackets and staging is installed. Hell 5.5 squares is not even worth using a gun on let alone $70 for coil
nails.. ITs still ok to use a hammer or shingler’s hatchet. Not every thing has to be air driven
I’m doing this the old-fashioned way (like Elk) - no air tools.....
Lots of tricks of the trade LOL.
