Different Stove Board Construction Ideas

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Val

Member
Mar 17, 2012
121
NY
I was wondering of different ideas of how to make stove boards. I wonder if anyone has ever used like an aluminum diamond plate or welded up a custom metal plate...like 1/8" steel with support cross rails underneath. These would be heavy...maybe not good for all floors. Also, has anyone ever fabricated sheet metal over a plywood board? I know they sell the cheaper stove boards for $50, and I like them, but I think they dent up easy. I have my pellet stoves on stone tile boards which were made by a carpenter at a local hearth shop years ago. At the time they were made for about a third of the cost of a commercial tile hearth board. The trouble with tile boards is that the tiles scratch when you move the stove for cleaning, the wood trim gets disloged or discolored when cleaning up ash. Stove boards get thrown out in garbages with broken tiles. I think a flat plate under the stove with some sort of lip seems best as far as durability is concerned.
 
??? The purpose of a stove board is to isolate and insulate, between the hot stove and the combustible floor. Why would you want to make the "stove board" out of a metal, which is a conductor of heat? Doesn't make any sense.

Tom C.
 
??? The purpose of a stove board is to isolate and insulate, between the hot stove and the combustible floor. Why would you want to make the "stove board" out of a metal, which is a conductor of heat? Doesn't make any sense.

Tom C.
Air would act as the insulator if the board is elevated on low cross-rails.
 
I was wondering of different ideas of how to make stove boards. I wonder if anyone has ever used like an aluminum diamond plate or welded up a custom metal plate...like 1/8" steel with support cross rails underneath. These would be heavy...maybe not good for all floors. Also, has anyone ever fabricated sheet metal over a plywood board? I know they sell the cheaper stove boards for $50, and I like them, but I think they dent up easy. I have my pellet stoves on stone tile boards which were made by a carpenter at a local hearth shop years ago. At the time they were made for about a third of the cost of a commercial tile hearth board. The trouble with tile boards is that the tiles scratch when you move the stove for cleaning, the wood trim gets disloged or discolored when cleaning up ash. Stove boards get thrown out in garbages with broken tiles. I think a flat plate under the stove with some sort of lip seems best as far as durability is concerned.

Hello

I can see your point about some tiles getting scratched and the wood trim also getting damaged. I always use porcelain tiles that are fired at a higher temperature and do not scratch so they are stronger than ceramic tiles. As far as the wood trim goes I have had an issue with damage on that so I purchased a metal L strip from Lowes to prevent any more damage!
See my link below.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/need-suggestions-for-wood-pellet-stove-hearth-repair.66487/

See porcelain tiles and metal strip below
 

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Hello

I just applied another metal strip to my second hearth for protection. Here is how. Very Easy! See pics.

$8.97 for the 4 ft 1/8" thick aluminum angle at Lowes and some trust easy bite screws!

Just a simple cut with the Jig Saw, and drill 3 holes and screw the angle in!
 

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Hello

I just applied another metal strip to my second hearth for protection. Here is how. Very Easy! See pics.

$8.97 for the 4 ft 1/8" thick aluminum angle at Lowes and some trust easy bite screws!

Just a simple cut with the Jig Saw, and drill 3 holes and screw the angle in!
Thank you for the pictures. I have used aluminum angle like that several times for different things. It is interesting to see the screws because I would have only thought of regular pan head wood screws without the built in washer. I also would cut the metal with a hacksaw and I would try to do the 45 degree corners. I am surprised that the wood trim didnt split when you put the screws in. It seems that screws would split most molding because they are too long and big, but your stove board has thicker lip. This is a good idea if someone builds their own stove board to just forget about the fancy trim and use the angle by itself over the edge of the tile. My stove board trim isnt too bad yet. I usually sand it lightly and restain it...but a real quick touch up job.
 
Thank you for the pictures. I have used aluminum angle like that several times for different things. It is interesting to see the screws because I would have only thought of regular pan head wood screws without the built in washer. I also would cut the metal with a hacksaw and I would try to do the 45 degree corners. I am surprised that the wood trim didnt split when you put the screws in. It seems that screws would split most molding because they are too long and big, but your stove board has thicker lip. This is a good idea if someone builds their own stove board to just forget about the fancy trim and use the angle by itself over the edge of the tile. My stove board trim isnt too bad yet. I usually sand it lightly and restain it...but a real quick touch up job.

You are welcome
The trim board is 1x4 Pine which is 3/4" thick and the screws are only 1/2" long so they screw right in!

I also have a 1/2" wide slot in the overhang for mounting rope light when I figure out what color!
What color would you choose for this early american stained hearth?
Cool White
Warm White
Amber
Red
Blue
Green....etc
 
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