Thinking Wood Gun...any advice or experience?

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My smoke pipe came from a local sheetmetal shop which makes it, there seams are crimped and leak a tiny bit of smoke, I would get factory made pipe next time with welded seams.

Do you know what guage the pipe is from the sheetmetal shop? And is that different than the factory welded pipe you would get? I'm just using off the shelf stuff here for now to get me going (don't need much new to hook into existing) - but thinking maybe something more robust for later.
 
It's ARRIVED!

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YEAH BABY!!! Thats what I'm talking about! CONGRATULATIONS!

I see you got it up on a trailer? I guess to get it around the basement entrance?
I'm real excited for you, I can't wait to see it burning.

Oh by the way, I lit my first fire of the season in the Gun this afternoon.
I shot 3 videos showing the different stages of it reaching temp and the gasification.
But I blew what should have been the 4th video of it shut off for 3 hours and the relighting.
I let it sit for 3 hours and then turned on a heat zone but got distracted and by the time I went outside it was allready on and burning.:(
Don't worry I'll get it
 
YEAH BABY!!! Thats what I'm talking about! CONGRATULATIONS!

I see you got it up on a trailer? I guess to get it around the basement entrance?
I'm real excited for you, I can't wait to see it burning.

Oh by the way, I lit my first fire of the season in the Gun this afternoon.
I shot 3 videos showing the different stages of it reaching temp and the gasification.
But I blew what should have been the 4th video of it shut off for 3 hours and the relighting.
I let it sit for 3 hours and then turned on a heat zone but got distracted and by the time I went outside it was allready on and burning.:(
Don't worry I'll get it

I had to pick it up somehow! I had it shipped to a buddy's commercial address to save a few bucks on shipping and so I didn't have to take a day off work to wait for the delivery.

I used the skid steer to pull it off the trailer and put it in the garage to open it all up and take inventory.

Keep the videos coming! I need all the help I can get!

ac
 
Congrats!! Now the fun and adventure really begins.
 
Plumbing question:

As I layout the plan and make a shopping list I realized I need to include a provision for a future project: heat to my workshop.

The workshop is ~1500 well-insulated square feet. It is ~80' away from the house and ~5' higher in elevation.

How do I prep for this now as I plumb in the Wood Gun to REPLACE my oil boiler? Do I just leave a T off my supply and returns to add a properly sized pump and zone valve later?

ac
 
I went to Chambersburg, PA and visited AHS last week before putting a deposit down. The lower and rear door were both sealed with fiberglass rope.

That is disappointing to hear about the oil plug. What is "chugging"? Do you have any pictures of your modification?

I'm working on plans to make a smoke hood. I figure 24" wide and 8" deep. Does that sound about right? Any chance you could take some dimensions for me?

Are you using the DHW coil for that? I wonder how that would work with my indirect. I could superheat the indirect up to max aquastat setting (150?) and then run a mixing valve back down to 120 at the top.

That is quite scary about the chimney pipe. Where is a good source for SS pipe to use?

Thanks for the help!

here are some pictures of the oil burner blocking plate and smoke hood I made, it is just a bit wider than the door and 4" deep.PA091516.JPGPA091517.JPGPA091518.JPG
 
I like how you have AHS' tech support's number right there! LOL

TS
 
I bought my pipe from a local supplier, but maybe this can help ya.
http://www.selkirkcorp.com/products/venting.aspx

I think I am going to order pipe from here:
http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/clbrd/1049/category/6-inch-Rigid-Pipe---316L.html

Clean-out T to make my 90 to the thimble:
http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/1059/category/Rigid-Tees-316L.html

This product to seal the joints:
http://www.chimneylinerdepot.com/store/1965/product/HomeSaver-Flue-Goo;-Black-12-Gal..html

I'm not sure why, but Wood Gun wants clean out tees instead of elbows. Does that make sense?

ac
 
My suggestion would be to get stainless steel double wall pipe. Especially if the clearances to any combustibles is tight.
It is more expensive but I believe its worth it.

As far as the clean out tees go, I think they want one just above the fly ash collector to help trap any ash that may get past it. The ash will hit the tee and fall back into the collector.

I didn't do that. I have a very short run.
I went straight up with a 48" double wall telescoping piece off the collector up to the ceiling thimble where it connects to two 36" ss double wall pieces and then the cap.

The roof is low and I can jump up there and pop off the cap and first section to clean that. then I can pop off the telescoping piece and clean that out.
The last piece that is permanently attached to the thimble and roof flange is now easy to clean as well.

I didn't use any caulking because the double wall has a twist lock connection.
Sometimes a whisper of smoke may leak out of the connection between the telescoping pipe and the piece in the thimble.
But it really doesn't matter to me since I am outside in the garage.
And believe me the tiny amount that may leak out every now and then is nothing to the amount that will pour out of the firebox door every time you open it!!!
 
My suggestion would be to get stainless steel double wall pipe. Especially if the clearances to any combustibles is tight.
It is more expensive but I believe its worth it.

As far as the clean out tees go, I think they want one just above the fly ash collector to help trap any ash that may get past it. The ash will hit the tee and fall back into the collector.

I didn't do that. I have a very short run.
I went straight up with a 48" double wall telescoping piece off the collector up to the ceiling thimble where it connects to two 36" ss double wall pieces and then the cap.

The roof is low and I can jump up there and pop off the cap and first section to clean that. then I can pop off the telescoping piece and clean that out.
The last piece that is permanently attached to the thimble and roof flange is now easy to clean as well.

I didn't use any caulking because the double wall has a twist lock connection.
Sometimes a whisper of smoke may leak out of the connection between the telescoping pipe and the piece in the thimble.
But it really doesn't matter to me since I am outside in the garage.
And believe me the tiny amount that may leak out every now and then is nothing to the amount that will pour out of the firebox door every time you open it!!!

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That is my current setup. All single wall. I don't really have clearance issues with combustibles.

The manual doesn't mention using a clean out, UNLESS you have 90 degree turns. As you can see in the picture, I will have to make one into the thimble and run a short horizontal pipe.

I know, I know: SMOKE HOOD.

Any chance you could do me a favor and take some quick measurements of the AHS one? I have a buddy that works in a sheet metal shop and he said he'd help me make my own for a case of beer.

ac
 
Are you teeing the flue into the existing flue for the oil?
 
Its 9" deep by 24" wide and 9" tall. It has a 1/12th hp blower with 485cfm with a 5" exhaust port

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Here is my first ever you tube video.


I shot it with my iphone so sorry for the skinny screen, maybe I need to hold the phone sideways.
Any way it shows me lighting the unit for the first time this season.

I have another one that I am downloading to you tube right know.
 
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LOVE the video! You are making me want to get to work!

I plan to move the WG into rough position this weekend. Hopefully I can get started early next week installing the electric hot water heater, ripping out the oil boiler and placing the WG into final position to make the shopping list.

KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING!!!

ac
 
I need to work out my chimney a bit.

Due to clearance to the floor joists, I need insulated pipe. The E180 needs 6" from the cyclone to the masonry flue. It looks like my oil boiler uses a 7" flue. Plan:

6" Insulated up from cyclone.
6" Cleanout Tee (acts as elbow)
6" Insulated towards thimble in masonry chimney
6" to 7" increaser

Sound about right?

I've never worked with insulated pipe before, am I able to cut my own lengths as needed like I can with black stove pipe by cutting the female end?

ac
 
I need to work out my chimney a bit.

Due to clearance to the floor joists, I need insulated pipe. The E180 needs 6" from the cyclone to the masonry flue. It looks like my oil boiler uses a 7" flue. Plan:

6" Insulated up from cyclone.
6" Cleanout Tee (acts as elbow)
6" Insulated towards thimble in masonry chimney
6" to 7" increaser

Sound about right?

I've never worked with insulated pipe before, am I able to cut my own lengths as needed like I can with black stove pipe by cutting the female end?

ac


I don't think you can cut it. Based on what I bought, which was double wall insulated, it has a twist lock connection.
 
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