Question on EKO Gasket Maintenance

[Eric Johnson]

I need a new primary combustion chamber gasket for my EKO 60, but in searching the topic here, I noted that somebody--I think it was DonL--recommended just applying high-temp silicone to the exiting gasket and calling it good.

Couple of questions:

1.) Does the existing gasket need any prep or cleaning before I squirt the goop in the groove?
2.) Should I try to lay down a smooth bead and let it dry with the door open, or put it on and then close the door to seat it. If so, does the flange need any kind of cleaning or prep or a lubricant barrier of some kind to keep the silicone from sticking to it?

I also remember a thread from long ago where someone said the best way to clean the gasket was to take it out and lay it down in the secondary combustion chamber to burn off the creosote and make it like new, more or less. Seems you could do the same thing with a torch, but maybe not worth the effort.

 

[Fred61]

I wouldn't know which would be the best way to clean the rope or whether it needs to be cleaned. there are alot of pores that the sealant can grab on to.
I had High temp silicone gaskets on my Wood Gun that burned and crumbled frequently. I just smeared an even coat on the surface, laid waxed paper over it and slightly latched the door only putting a small amount of force on the gasket and let it cure.

I just installed the new silicone coated rope gasket from New Horizon about 2 weeks ago. After four fires it appears to be sealing very well. No Smoke, no odor! Had to crank out the hinge lugs four turns and still had to apply a fair amount of pressure to latch the door. A little lubrication on the latching cam helped. I'm still wondering why they don't put a lug on both top and bottom of the adjustment stud. With only one side you can't adjust in or out half a turn. Only a full turn.

I saved the old gasket and am planning on soaking it in a strong solution of water and spray cleaner (like 409 -- Mean Green). I have wiped up creosote stains with those products in the past so I'm curious as to whether they will dissolve creosote in the gasket.

 

[taxidermist]

I need a new primary combustion chamber gasket for my EKO 60, but in searching the topic here, I noted that somebody--I think it was DonL--recommended just applying high-temp silicone to the exiting gasket and calling it good.

Couple of questions:

1.) Does the existing gasket need any prep or cleaning before I squirt the goop in the groove?
2.) Should I try to lay down a smooth bead and let it dry with the door open, or put it on and then close the door to seat it. If so, does the flange need any kind of cleaning or prep or a lubricant barrier of some kind to keep the silicone from sticking to it?

I also remember a thread from long ago where someone said the best way to clean the gasket was to take it out and lay it down in the secondary combustion chamber to burn off the creosote and make it like new, more or less. Seems you could do the same thing with a torch, but maybe not worth the effort.

Eric,
All i do is clean off the creosote off the old seal as best you can then use high temp silicone to fill in over the old gasket. I use a putty knife to smooth it all out. I take my door off and lay it flat to do the work. I dont use anything to keep it from sticking. I buy my silicone from tsc in a caulk tube located by the wood burner supplies section.

Hope this helps,
Rob

 

[Eric Johnson]

Eric,
All i do is clean off the creosote off the old seal as best you can then use high temp silicone to fill in over the old gasket. I use a putty knife to smooth it all out. I take my door off and lay it flat to do the work. I dont use anything to keep it from sticking. I buy my silicone from tsc in a caulk tube located by the wood burner supplies section.

Hope this helps,
Rob

Thanks, Rob. I think it was you who mentioned it in another thread. Sounds good to me.

 

[Nofossil]

I actually bought new gaskets for my EKO, but then I tried doing the silicone thing first. Three years ago. Still perfect. Here's what I did:

1. Open the door and apply a bead of high-temp silicone (mine was red) to the entire sealing surface of the gasket - basically the bottom of the 'trench' where the gasket has been compressed by the edge of the door opening.
2. Carefully lay Saran wrap over the silicone - many small pieces work better. Overlapping is OK, wrinkles are to be avoided.
3. Close and latch the door and allow time for the silicone to set. I did overnight.
4. Remove as much of the Saran wrap as will come of easily.

The resulting silicone surface mirrors every minute imperfection of the door frame edge, and has worked perfectly for me.

 

[Armaton]

Wondering since my EKO 40 hasn't had a fire yet, could/should I be proactive and silicone the original rope seal before I use it?
What do you think?

Brandon

 

[taxidermist]

Wondering since my EKO 40 hasn't had a fire yet, could/should I be proactive and silicone the original rope seal before I use it?
What do you think?

Brandon

Yes you should

 

[Nofossil]

The only reason that I can think of for delaying is that it might give the gasket itself a bit of time to 'seat in' and conform to the door frame lip. Still, early silicone doesn't seem a bad idea.

 

[chuck172]

Please help me out with this. Are you guys saying that instead of buying a new silicone door gasket, you just fix up the old one?
You clean up the existing gasket in place as well as possible, caulk the channel ontop of the the old gasket with silicone hi-temp. Smooth out and level to top of gasket trough. Cover the caulked surface with saran wrap, close and latch door, let silicone set. Basically mold the silicone gasket surface to the door.
That's it?

 

[Nofossil]

Please help me out with this. Are you guys saying that instead of buying a new silicone door gasket, you just fix up the old one?
You clean up the existing gasket in place as well as possible, caulk the channel ontop of the the old gasket with silicone hi-temp. Smooth out and level to top of gasket trough. Cover the caulked surface with saran wrap, close and latch door, let silicone set. Basically mold the silicone gasket surface to the door.
That's it?

That's it - worked for me. My original gasket was fiber rope, though - not silicone. Still using it after many years.

 

[muncybob]

I have done the silicone to gasket approach on my boiler and have not bought a new door gasket in 5+ years. Doesn't seem to take much silicone. I use a plastic putty knife that has a profiles cut out of the "blade" that approximates the contour of the seal and smooth it out/remove any excess the best I can. Then the wax paper approach.
Years ago I bought new rope gasket to replace the rubber type one in my door but have yet to replace it.