Stupid questions...Time for a rebuild-046

[Bocefus78]

Ok, I scored an 046 thats toasted. It looks to be rode pretty hard. Muffler removal shows a scored piston on exhaust side and clean looking cyllinder on the intake side. I am at a stopping point since my t27 wont fit thru the cyl fins to remove it. Time for a trip to the tool shop.

I've never rebuilt anything. What do I need to be on the lookout for when tearing this thing down? How does one check bearings in the lower end without a complete teardown...is this possible?
I know, I know...stupid questions for some, but I just want to know what I am in store for here. Thanks

 

[MasterMech]

Exactly the reason my MS460 project is hibernating. You need special tools to split the case and replace the bearings. It is possible to split the case without the tools but you will leave tracks. Up to you. You can spin the crank and feel the bearings but that's about it without getting into it.

 

[basod]

MM
does stihl have a special narrow shank T27 driver or am I missing something?

If that's the case I'd imagine a bit just slightly over 1/4" to open the head holes would be easy an solution.

 

[taxidermist]

MM
does stihl have a special narrow shank T27 driver or am I missing something?

If that's the case I'd imagine a bit just slightly over 1/4" to open the head holes would be easy an solution.

go to baylies on line and you can buy a t-27 and a aftermarket piston and cylinder. I also would get the piston ring clamp set it makes it a snap ti install the piston into the cylinder.

 

[ScotO]

If it looks like it was really REALLY used hard, and if you are going through the time, money, and effort to break that saw down, you'd be wise to replace the bearings and crank seals as well. Not much extra money, worth it every time. As for the T27, get on the 'net and find a cheaper set of long reach T handled drivers. Worth their weight in gold, as if you end up liking the rebuild on the 046, you'll probably end up looking for another project to build. And another, and another......That's what happened to me!!

 

[MasterMech]

MM
does stihl have a special narrow shank T27 driver or am I missing something?

If that's the case I'd imagine a bit just slightly over 1/4" to open the head holes would be easy an solution.

The tool they give away with the trimmers will work just fine. I run Snap-On Torx drivers (I have a couple different lengths) because they last so much longer than others. Mine have a 1/4" hex on the drive end that pops into my CTS561 cordless scredriver. Saws aren't too bad but it saves loads of time when you have to take apart backpack blower housings with dozens of screws.

 

[basod]

The tool they give away with the trimmers will work just fine. I run Snap-On Torx drivers (I have a couple different lengths) because they last so much longer than others. Mine have a 1/4" hex on the drive end that pops into my CTS561 cordless scredriver. Saws aren't too bad but it saves loads of time when you have to take apart backpack blower housings with dozens of screws.

I'm with you now.
I have a handful of the sizes I use most often from cheap duplicate torx drivers. Just cut the handles and use those straight in the drill chuck for quick assem/disasembly

 

[Bocefus78]

Update: FWIW, my trimmer t27's (2 different stihl issued ones) well, neither one fit. I got some t handles that worked. Cyl is off and wasted. Piston wasted, 1 ring broken. Looks like straight gassed saw to me. No port work. Needle bearing on piston seems fine but will probably get replaced anyway.

Now for my next question...How good are the meteor aftermarket jug and slug kits from baileys? For $150, that seems like the way to go. I havent checked on stihl OE parts...basically b/c I am scared to know! Thanks!

 

[Danno77]

just some fun reading that might help if you ever get around to it:
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/88794.htm

 

[Danno77]

if you decide its not worth the effort lemme know.