Thought I had the PS-35 figured out

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samdweezel05

Member
Feb 11, 2012
87
Upstate NY
I was having feeding issued that lead me to use the reset button at least 3 times a week. I tore the entire thing apart and found small amounts of fine ash in vacuum lines and switches. Cleaned it all out and now it runs when it should, feeds after it lights, not a single issue. Problem now is it feeds way too much on high. Exhaust is as clean as can be including the pipe, burn pot, baffles and exhaust path from the stove to the pipe. Fresh air intake is also clear of any obstructions. On high it feeds pellets to the point that the pot will be half full wile burning. The flame will be to the top of the stove. On medium it is perfect with a flame that is about 3" over the top edge of the burn pot and low has a flame that just comes out over the top of the burn pot. I have the feed gate closed as far as it can go. Any help would be great.
 
Check all gaskets you aren't getting enough combustion air.

Make certain that the termination cap isn't crudded up, the critter barrier there can clog up with ash.

Did you clean out the combustion blower cavity?
 
Critter screen was removed to make sure it wasn't causing an issue. I cleaned the entire stove pipe from top to bottom, inside the house and outside. Please explain the combustion blower cavity. I cleaned the exhaust fan pathway from the baffles, all the way through the stove to the stove pipe connection.
 
The cavity is where the combustion blower's impeller is (you are calling it an exhaust fan).

Also I believe there is a gasket that your burn pot sits on.
 
One other thing to check is there any ash under where the ash pan is, this can block the air you need for combustion and is why they make a point of always having the ash pan in the unit when using the cleaning rod or cleaning the exhaust path.
 
Have you tried closing the feed gate?

Flame needs to be adjusted on High to 4"-6" above the pot. Make 1/4" adjustments every 15-20 min.
 
Didnt read the last sentence. My bad....

After running on High for awhile, does it burn down? Or after 30 minutes, is it still built up?

If its after a long period, its DEFINITELY an Air flow problem then.

Bad gaskets. Pot clean-out plate is drooping, Etc..

What is your venting set-up?
 
two things to check
1.) door gasket needs to be adjusted
2.) adjust the flapper valve in the hopper

Eric
 
I had overflowing burn pot symptoms when i didn't have enough combustion air. I had to open up the draft adjuster more.
 
No ash under the pan as I never have the pan out unless the vacuum is running to clean the stove. Door seal is good. Intake and exhaust are both as spotless as the day they were new. Bottom of the pot is up where it should be. Right now the entire stove is clean as a whistle and I am confused. I have never had to run it with the feed gate closed all the way and high is still useless. On low and medium the flame is strong. Blue in color at the bottom of the pot and bright orange at the top of the flame and it flickers at the flame tips. On high, it lights and almost instantly the flame climbs to the top of the stove after only a couple of minutes. After an hour of operation on high there will be enough pellets in the pot that you can no longer see the bottom of the pot or any of the holes in the bottom rear portion of the pot.
 
Stove is on an out side wall. Pics can describe it better than words. The pipe goes through the wall and has a stainless adjustable termination cap on the end. Critter guard is currently removed as of a couple of days ago. Glass does need to be cleaned.

DSCN6509.jpg
 
This is the second winter with the stove. It had some other issues last year that were caused by the critter guard having lots of ash stuck to it an caused a similar issue but it wouldn't run correctly on any setting. High worked fine for the first bit of this heating season and now it doesn't.
 
Any new air movers that weren't there last year?

Is the cleaning rod fully seated or is there some white showing?
 
Everything is the same as last year. Even the pellet manufacturer. Rod is all the way in. My wife has a hard time to operate the cleaning rod so I am the only one that deals with it. It has always opened and closed hard. I have checked from inside the stove and underneath the burn pot to make sure the bottom of the pot is seated as it should be when the rod is pushed in.
 
How did you clean the air holes in the burn pot?

A number of quad owners (and the guts of yours are quad all the way) use gun cleaning brushes or the correct size drill bits to get any buildup out of the holes.
 
I have had good luck with the cleaning tool that came with the stove. All holes are open as much as they can be. I put a flashlight under the stove and checked out all the holes. I believe there are 13 holes total. And thanks for trying to help me here. I really appreciate it.
 
I don't know how many holes are there just that they have shown up on here as being the culprit on occasion as has a bad burn pot gasket and busted blots holding things together.

One fellow discovered the busted blot holding the burn pot against the gasket after taking his stove all a part.

We try to help it is always a case of eliminating things.
 
Pot gasket is the only thing I really haven't checked. How would I know if it was bad after pulling it apart. I have pulled apart thousands of things with gaskets and 99.9% of the time, the gasket comes apart in several pieces taking it apart. The lazy, tall, flame on high says air leak all the way but the way it runs on the other two setting says differently. I did have to choke the feed rate down to get the other two setting to run correctly though. Where is it sucking air?
 
Well the answer to that question is why I've been hitting all of the cleaning hot spots and gaskets, it only takes a small air leak to screw up the burn and it might only really matter when the stove is being pushed.

I'd have hit that stove with the leaf blower trick long before this point myself, however you say the venting is clean as can be. I never trust myself to get everything with a brush and small vacuum. I also keep remembering the warning in the manual about cleaning and not having the ash pan in the stove being able to partially plug the air intake.
 
I own more chainsaws than I can count but I don't own a leaf blower, lol. Venting is all as clean as it can be. I have done that to try and figure this all out. Explain the leaf blower trick to me and I will have a leaf blower here tomorrow.
 
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You remove the termination cap, place the suction end of the leaf blower over the vent end, point where it won't plaster things with soot that you don't want plastered, and let it rip. It is a supper sucker vacuum and will get all kinds of ash out of the stove's venting and inner workings.here is one example:
 
The cleaning rod is hard to pull because there is Carbon build up on the plate. Its scraping that build up. Stick your head in the stove and look down. Take a flathead or a chisel and hammer and lightly break up.

I have 15 upper holes (sidewalls and front of ramp/slope) then there is the ignitor hole (front/center) and 8 holes on the bottom/level of pot (these 8 are very important to keep clean) there is 4 in the front of pot and 4 in the rear (very.bottom of slope).

The burn pot gasket would likely be ruined if you have EVER removed your burn pot? Can you take a pic of the inside of firebox. Specifically the burn pot. If there was a leak, I may be able to see it in the ash pattern?
 
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