Chain Stall

[Bacffin]

I have a Husky 435 with a 16" bar that I use on the smaller rounds, but the chain seems to stall easily. I know the engine has plenty of power for the work load, but the chain can stop if I put pressure on it. This happens without using the spikes also. I always make sure I am using a sharp chain, so I know it is not related to that. It is only about a year and 1/2 old and has been doing this right out of the box. Is there a clutch adjustment on this? Nothing in the owners manual on this either.

It's a little hard starting when it is warm too, but that is another issue. I think that is ethynol related. I am going to add some Seafoam to see if it clears up before bringing out the screwdrivers.

Thanks,
Bruce

 

[brian89gp]

You have oil or sawdust gunking up your clutch? My 435 tends to get real messy under the cover a lot quicker then my other saws.

 

[basod]

Rakers might be set too low and it's getting more bite than power to pull the chips.
I'd second cleaning the clutch as well some non-lubricant spray - carb cleaner etc.

 

[lukem]

Is the engine loosing RPM?

 

[Bacffin]

You have oil or sawdust gunking up your clutch? My 435 tends to get real messy under the cover a lot quicker then my other saws.

I thought so at one point, but after cleaning it, it continued. It's been like this right out of the box. It's something else. If I can't figure it out, I'll take it to the shop.

 

[Bacffin]

Rakers might be set too low and it's getting more bite than power to pull the chips.
I'd second cleaning the clutch as well some non-lubricant spray - carb cleaner etc.

Nope, new OEM chain does the same thing.

 

[Bacffin]

Is the engine loosing RPM?

No, thats the strange part. The engine just keeps on cranking, not even over reving. The chain just stops. If I had my eyes closed, I would think it was still cutting.

 

[Halligan]

Could be a bad clutch from the factory. Try a new clutch.

 

[Bacffin]

You have oil or sawdust gunking up your clutch? My 435 tends to get real messy under the cover a lot quicker then my other saws.

Does your power through ok using spikes?

 

[Bacffin]

Could be a bad clutch from the factory. Try a new clutch.

You might be right. Do you know if the clutch can be taken aprat and examined?

 

[Halligan]

You might be right. Do you know if the clutch can be taken aprat and examined?

Not sure how you could verify it's bad by just looking at it but clutches are fairly chaep and it sounds like you ruled out the other possibilitys.

 

[lukem]

Sounds like a bum clutch.

 

[Halligan]

I assume this saw had a spur sprocket that's part of the clutch housing correct? Your using the correct pitch chain for your sprocket? If the saw does have a rim sprocket (unlikely) your setting the drive links in the sprocket correctly?

Your sprocket could be wasted from a previous issue causing the drive links to skip over the sprocket under load. When the chain stops does any abnormal noise come from the saw?

 

[MasterMech]

Rakers might be set too low and it's getting more bite than power to pull the chips.
I'd second cleaning the clutch as well some non-lubricant spray - carb cleaner etc.

Aerosol carburetor cleaner typically has a dry lube in it. Brake/parts cleaner is designed to leave nothing behind.

Is the engine loosing RPM?

I realize not everyone has a tach in their home toolbox but I'd hook one up and see what the RPM is when the chain stops. Should be a minimum clutch engagement spec for that saw somewhere. You might have to ask a dealer to look it up on a shop manual.

 

[Isaac Carlson]

I have bad clutch once. It was out of round. Check it out.

 

[Bacffin]

I have bad clutch once. It was out of round. Check it out.

Yes, this is what I am thinking also, Thanks

 

[smokinj]

I dont sure if you have a carb adjustment on that saw?

 

[mecreature]

The clutch on these are suppose to be little sissys. At least that is what I gathered on Arborsite.
But I have not had any problems I would call unusual. You can't lay into it really hard but it can hang buried pretty deep.

I put a Stihl RS chain on mine and it still turns it nice.
they are stingy on the bar oil and you do have to keep them super clean under the cover.

Nice small saw though.

 

[Bacffin]

I dont sure if you have a carb adjustment on that saw?

Don't know (yet), but I do know it's not motor related. Most carbs are adjustable though. You either remove the red spinning caps on the screws or drill out the aluminun plug (some times) to get at them.
The engine runs fine. It is definitly in the clutch/chain assembly. I am just not familiar with these enough to go "probing", but with all the great info you guy's are giving me, I am getting closer.
I do want to try and figure this out...at least get close before I have to pull the trigger on spending dough on it sending to a dealer.

Thanks J,
Bruce

 

[Bacffin]

The clutch on these are suppose to be little sissys. At least that is what I gathered on Arborsite.
But I have not had any problems I would call unusual. You can't lay into it really hard but it can hang buried pretty deep.

I put a Stihl RS chain on mine and it still turns it nice.
they are stingy on the bar oil and you do have to keep them super clean under the cover.

Nice small saw though.

I get that too. "you can't lay into it pretty hard", at all. Is this the whole thing I am witnessing here? It just maybe the saw altogether. Not guts!. But to not even be able to use the the bucking spikes? It really likes to run at WOT...only! No feathering whatsoever.
It just may be the saw!
I don't run the saw deep because of this.
Dang nabbit. I like the size.

Bruce

 

[brian89gp]

I was cutting 14-18" rounds of somewhat dried elm/oak/hickory and mine didn't bog down like you mention. If I pry against the bucking spikes, yes. But not if I let it do the cutting and me to the trigger pulling. I even overheated mine to the point it immediately stalled and wouldn't restart until the next day trying to cut a dried 30" red oak log with it and it would only have the chain stall as you mention if I was putting too much elbow into it.

There is used OEM clutch and clutch drum on ebay for $23, all you would need is some poly rope to act as a piston stop and a wrench. You might consider just replacing it unless you want to take it to a saw shop for troubleshooting.

 

[Gark]

With the engine OFF and the chain brake DISengaged, does the chain spin freely around the bar by hand? If not, check bar nose sprocket or dragging chain brake. If the chain spins freely by hand, then suspect clutch.

 

[KarlP]

I get that too. "you can't lay into it pretty hard", at all. Is this the whole thing I am witnessing here? It just maybe the saw altogether. Not guts!. But to not even be able to use the the bucking spikes?

My guess -

It is a 40cc "low emissions" saw to meet EPA Phase II requirements. It should run great with a 12" bar and okay with a 14" bar. If possible/comfortable use low-profile 3/8 (not really 3/8) non-safety chain.

My 2003 (pre EPA Phase I) 353 (25% more CCs) makes 50% more HP. It runs great with a 16" bar and okay with an 18" using .325 non-safety chain.

 

[gblass1]

Had a similar problem with my 445 turned out to be the nose sprocket on the bar was seizing up. Try changing the bar there cheaper than a clutch and you'll need it eventually.

 

[smokinj]

Don't know (yet), but I do know it's not motor related. Most carbs are adjustable though. You either remove the red spinning caps on the screws or drill out the aluminun plug (some times) to get at them.
The engine runs fine. It is definitly in the clutch/chain assembly. I am just not familiar with these enough to go "probing", but with all the great info you guy's are giving me, I am getting closer.
I do want to try and figure this out...at least get close before I have to pull the trigger on spending dough on it sending to a dealer.

Thanks J,
Bruce

On my stihl 460 if you adjust to fat it will run fine, just does not pull the chain. Start leaning it up and it pull like mad dog 20/20.