Mobile home wood stoves?

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1sthound

New Member
Dec 10, 2012
12
Double wide, apx 75'x25', current stove that needs to go, scandia 315 wood eating monster, Typical floor plan in home, long and skinny, wall between kitchen area and living room with two openings apx. 8' each,
then down the hall to various rooms.
8" up and out pipe apx 12" to capped top, single wall up to ceiling thimble then double wall stainless up through roof to cap.
The single wall portion is green enameled pipe and says preway so I can only assume that at some point it was used on an old preway freestanding uh...fireplace?
I do not intend to use stove as primary heat source, I don't think it is wise to try that in this home,
So will continue to use for heat after work and on weekends, I doubt the wife will want to mess with stove during week but if we get a safer easier to use stove maybe that will change,( she digs the warmth) But is afraid of this thing which is good for me!
The run is very short maybe 12' from top of stove, the moderns seem to all be 6" pipe so I will run into that problem right out of the gate.
I have nothing against the TV looking burn boxes but I really don't care for them, I prefer cast on legs more eyeball pleasing to me anyway.
Hearth is 4'x5' 3/8" slate raised 6" off floor back wall and hearth finished in 1/2" thick fire proof fake brick ( hmm likely asbestos eh)
You guys seem to know your stuff, so I am asking for stove ideas to replace this one. I don't see that an outside air source is really an option due to the stove being located in the living room and the nearest wall is 12' away. Oh yeah the green preway pipe needs to go, I like it wife hates it,
Any ideas on stoves and or setups greatly appreciated ,
I personally like the Napoleon 1600c or the 1400c then again I don't know much.
Thanks 1sthound
 
you can go through the floor for an outside air, I know your trailer is not on a slab!
 
My stove, Napoleon 1100C is rated for low combustion clearances and mobile home installations. You can look at the manual/install schematics on line, there is a section to install in an mobile home but I'm not at all familiar with installs, we hired folks to do it (the insurance company wouldn't allow a self install anyway). It's a small stove and you can expect 5-6 hr burn times with good seasoned, dry wood. We are 24/7 burners using it as a primary heat source but on really cold nights, the oil furnace will kick on overnight. We heat about 900 sq ft in an old drafty bank barn with toasty temperatures :)
 
Are you sure this is still considered a mobile home? There are lots of stoves that will work. But check to see if this is still considered a mobile home. Often, once it's on a foundation and bolted down it is not under the same regs.

Napoleon makes a good stove, but I strongly suspect it will want more chimney, especially with the 8" pipe.
 
Yep I thought of that, code says not through floor, so I was thinking down through floor then across to wall underneath floor and out

Which code is that? I have my dubba wyde stove OAK through the floor. Never saw a code that bars it (and I have been dealing wit the county engineers here on a remodel for about a year now). HUD requirement for all stoves in mobile/manufactured homes in the US must have an OAK, regardless of local, regional or state codes. They also have to be on a pedestal and not on legs.

I would recommend an Englander 30. They are HUD compliant (fitted for an OAK and pedistal), EPA approved, and WA state approved. They come with the optional leg kit and a blower. They are also available for cheap off-season at HD ($650 with shipping). Lots of people here have and recommend them. I have a 24x60, open living/dining/kitchen, door to master suite off living, hall to main bath and 2 bedrooms. Wood stove is 100% of heating here.
 
There are lots of stoves that will work. But check to see if this is still considered a mobile home. Often, once it's on a foundation and bolted down it is not under the same regs.

That is only if an engineer has designed, approved and signed off on it. O/w it is still a mobile home, regardless of what you have done to it.
 
yea I really meant through floor then over the 12 feet to the outside, just did not say it.
 
Wood stoves are illegal in pre-fab homes in CT, I believe. Not that that necessarily matters in YOUR case, but I'd check your local ordinances if I were you.


-soupy1957
 
Considering he's currently running a Scandia in there I suspect that following code to the T has already been bypassed. A properly installed EPA stove should be a nice improvement, but I am concerned about the short, 8" chimney providing disappointing performance. If it weren't the opposite look that the OP wants I would be thinking about a BK Princess here. Wondering how short a Fireview would work on? If that style is ok, it would be worth calling Woodstock and asking them.
 
Several models of Regency Stoves are rated for mobile home installations and include special instructions on how to properly set them up that way. I know my model is rated for mobile homes. I don't think you are supposed to use the stove when the mobile home is actually in "mobile mode" although if you did can you imagine the draft while driving down the highway! :) And then can you imagine the effect of a forward-facing Outdoor Air Kit? :):):) Hope that helps.
 
All Blaze King stoves are mobile home approved according to there web site in the FAQ section.
 
Which code is that? I have my dubba wyde stove OAK through the floor. Never saw a code that bars it (and I have been dealing wit the county engineers here on a remodel for about a year now). HUD requirement for all stoves in mobile/manufactured homes in the US must have an OAK, regardless of local, regional or state codes. They also have to be on a pedestal and not on legs.

I would recommend an Englander 30. They are HUD compliant (fitted for an OAK and pedistal), EPA approved, and WA state approved. They come with the optional leg kit and a blower. They are also available for cheap off-season at HD ($650 with shipping). Lots of people here have and recommend them. I have a 24x60, open living/dining/kitchen, door to master suite off living, hall to main bath and 2 bedrooms. Wood stove is 100% of heating here.
My install was done per HUD requirements and the OAK is just stubbed through the floor into the crawlspace with a rodent screen. Actually, I think that may be preferable anyway because sometimes wind conditions can cause a negative pressure, forcing air in.

I'm not sure that HUD necessarily requires a pedestal. I seem to recall that the Englander had to have a pedestal to be HUD compliant, though. But I did have the option of a PE Alderlea and a Jotul which are on legs. I was a bit concerned about the appearance of the OAK pipe showing, but I think.I could have lived with that.

StihlHead, Are you on the west side? I would have thought that the 30 would be too much for that size house here.
 
30 to much ha, you have windows don't you???:)
 
My install was done per HUD requirements and the OAK is just stubbed through the floor into the crawlspace with a rodent screen. Actually, I think that may be preferable anyway because sometimes wind conditions can cause a negative pressure, forcing air in.

That is exactly how my Earth Stove was 'plumbed' here. It was put in with a permit and inspected by the county.

I'm not sure that HUD necessarily requires a pedestal.

Well, they require tie-downs (bolts) for the stove, which usually means a pedestal. My Englander NC 30 instructions say that the pedestal is specifically required for HUD home installation. My take is that it depends on the stove and which specific models are HUD approved, but in most cases they require a pedestal mount.

From Sweep's Library web site, these are some of the requirements for HUD stoves:

(A) STOVE, PIPE AND CHIMNEY ARE U.L. LISTED
(B) STOVE IS H.U.D LISTED FOR MANUFACTURED HOME USE
(C) STOVE IS VENTED TO OUTSIDE COMBUSTION AIR
(D) STOVE IS GROUNDED TO THE FRAME OF THE MOBILE HOME
(E) STOVE IS BOLTED TO THE FLOOR OF THE HOME
(F) CONNECTOR PIPE (INSIDE) IS CHIMNEY OR DOUBLE WALL
(G) 3 SCREWS IN CONNECTOR PIPE AT STOVE AND CEILING
(H) CHIMNEY (CEILING UP TO CAP) IS TYPE "A" INSULATED
(I) PIPE AND CHIMNEY ARE SAME SIZE AS VENT ON STOVE
(J) JOIST AREA IS PROPERLY SHIELDED
(K) CAP IS EQUIPPED WITH A SPARK ARRESTOR SCREEN
(L) HEARTH IS SOLID, NONCOMBUSTIBLE AND UNBROKEN

There are also requirements for clearances (no zero clearance stoves, and the clearances are wider in a MH than a stick built house), and I know from the county engineers here that a HUD house wood stove cannot be located in a bedroom. There are other requirements for FHA loans, which tie into HUD requirements, but one is that a wood stove does not count as a heating appliance. Meaning to get a loan on this place I have to fix my electric heater, even though I never use it.


StihlHead, Are you on the west side? I would have thought that the 30 would be too much for that size house here.

Too much stove? Is there such a thing? :rolleyes: I am on the west side, but at elevation on the slopes of the Cascades. Lots of snow melting outside here right now. The 30 was also the same price as a 13, same design but a bigger/deeper firebox, so... better oversized than under.
 
BeGreen, Yep I have been known to be a little on the non/compliant side at times, but I do try to a point, I have done lots of bad things with this old beater and I will actually will kind of miss the old junkers flapper tapping away at the back, Im quite sure that when the county says no open fires outdoors I will fire up this old thing outside and smoke some meat in it or something,
I only recently stumbled across this site and since that time I have spent a lot of time learning how much that I don't know, Been an interesting time to say the least!
But now that I know better you guys& gals have pushed me towards upgrading to something safer and more efficient.
I do not live in a trailer park, I have 1/2 acre lot in town so far no gripes about the smoke(fingers crossed) this is serious coal country and I am one of the few using wood much to the dismay of the coal burners,
Truth be told Im embarrassed to admit to you just how much coal this old scandia has burned on a grate of course.
Its headed to 5below tonight and I still have 1/2 ton of coal sitting in the yard and half a bucket sitting by the stove
But nope I will not use it!
From all your posts I get the feeling that a 12' 8" pipe is not going to work? or poorly at best?
I have spent much time eyeballing stove suggestions so I would like to say thanks to all its been a big help!
and Hearth Mistress I did look at the 1100c but on the website it states not MH approved but it looks like a nice one.
Thanks again 1sthound
 
I won't advise on the flue question except to say that we have seen others here that have had problems trying to use 8", especially that short. It may not draw adequately. My guess is that you will encouraged to install 6" to be on the safe side and depending on the age of the 8", replacement may be a good idea anyway.

Regarding stoves, visit as many dealers as you can and scour this forum. The dealers can advise which available stoves can be installed in your mobile. Really, most modern stoves will be EPA and mobile approved, but some are not.

Edit: As to stove size, considering that you don't intend to heat the whole house, and transferring heat throughout would be difficult there anyway, it sounds like the actual heated space is fairly small.

How well insulated is the house and what is the climate like there? Many members here subscribe to the "bigger is better" theory, and in some cases that works, but I'd go easy there, depending on the above factors.
 
I know TSC sells a US brand stove 1100b, was thinking it was MH approed but not sure? I would leave what you have in , you can run a 6" right down that existing 8" pipe! You can use ridged SS and then go right to the stove in the house.
 
I
Edit: As to stove size, considering that you don't intend to heat the whole house, and transferring heat throughout would be difficult there anyway, it sounds like the actual heated space is fairly small.

How well insulated is the house and what is the climate like there? Many members here subscribe to the "bigger is better" theory, and in some cases that works, but I'd go easy there, depending on the above factors.
Iwould get a 30 myself. I heat 2500sq ft "rooms style" floor plan with my insert fine. YOu can build a small fire in it.

I use to live in a 800sqft trailer and it has insulation in it but was the worst for air leaks or heat loss, my current brick house despite no insulation in walls or floors holds heat/cool better!

Aslso having been through coal country a few times I can recall the overflowing coal sheds and piles and the black stains on the roofs all around the chimneys.
 
I know TSC sells a US brand stove 1100b, was thinking it was MH approed but not sure? I would leave what you have in , you can run a 6" right down that existing 8" pipe! You can use ridged SS and then go right to the stove in the house.
Yeah, I was wondering if you can do that. I wasn't sure. That would make it a lot easier and cheaper.

On the size, I can only go by my experience. I'm heating a 1750 sf single story mobile (newer style), good insulation, in a moderate climate. In January it's been in the 20's and 30's. Even then, I sometimes think my 2 cf stove is more than I need. It's okay, but I sure wouldn't want it larger and I could get by with a smaller one. Every situation is different and that makes it hard to advise.
 
Funny you mention that Clemsonfor, I was working today and was eyeballing stacks on homes on my travels and noticed right away all the black ones, and stains.
I dont think most people in Utah care all that much about rules concerning what you can burn in a stove,
you would be suprised at how many of us Utards throw a few hunks of coal in the stove when its below zero,
I have done it more than I care to admit, but then again I was unaware how stupid I was being.
Ah ignorance can be dangerous bliss! I will check out the US 1100b,
Thanks 1st hound
 
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