Englander pellet stove constant E1 code

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Jerry2000

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Jan 13, 2013
12
I have the Englander pellet stove, the one with the brass louvers on the sides, I believe the model is PVDC 55, something like that. Anyways, I keep getting a Error Code E1. Then I check the vacuum hose at the exhaust blower side, clamp on hose Very Hot to touch. And I use to hear vacuum Hissing once the hose is taken off that exhaust blower chamber nipple, then shuts down again after I restarted it from the E1 code. I do that just to hear if there is that vacuum Hiss for troubleshooting. But lately that Hiss is gone. Is the exhaust Blower chamber suppose to get Super Hot along with the clamp on the hose, too hot to touch? I understand heat travels through that but should your finger actually get almost burnt on that clamp from the heat? The hose does not Crack, it just seems to get so hot it somewhat deforms the ends of the hose just a tiny bit I think to cause a vacuum leak. But not too noticeable to the eye at the same time. The hose on there is that Federal Blue hose, the good stuff. Anyway I also checked the vacuum switch where the other end of the hose connects to. Took the hose off the exhaust blower end and sucked on it to listen for the clicking sound in the switch to somewhat tell if it's ok? Sound right? It clicked. Most of the time the stove will run for about 5-7 hours, then the E1 code shuts it down. That's when I check all the above all over again, and again! I clean the stove Weekly (vacuum inside all over), I even clean the flue outside once a week. The Hole inside the stove for the other vacuum switch is clear, (right side wall). In the past month I had some Nasty pellets that were all crumbly, and long in size, Brand from Lee Energy name from lee Energy Solutions (Green bag) from Menards. terrible burn as well!! Bought 5 bags, big mistake. Now using Somerset, great pellets these are! menards keeps switching brands everytime I go there! So with this said, could the Bad pellets clog up the exhaust blower chamber and channel (where exhaust motor is), causing a smaller area inside the chamber for heat to escape through flue, also causing a restriction of heat to escape because of dust build-up in there? Then giving me the E1 code because of restriction? Then in turn making the hose clamp so Hot to the touch? Sounds logical. Can anyone write back so I can figure this out with help? The stove is my primary source of heat as well. And right now it's off and using space heaters and it's 18 degrees outside right now. Thanks for any help!!
 
Have you removed the combustion blower from the housing and cleaned inside the housing and the blades of the fan?
 
As Byco says, remove comb. blower, clean vanes and the plenum that it mounts on. Also, when was the last time the ENTIRE exhaust system was cleaned?

BTW, you have a 25PDV
 
Have you removed the combustion blower from the housing and cleaned inside the housing and the blades of the fan?
Yes, I do that every summer. I did that this past October. I vacuumed all inside spotless. Would it be messed up this soon because of the bad pellets I mentioned?
 
As Byco says, remove comb. blower, clean vanes and the plenum that it mounts on. Also, when was the last time the ENTIRE exhaust system was cleaned?

BTW, you have a 25PDV
This past October I did all that, new gaskets as well.
 
This past October I did all that, new gaskets as well.
I also wanted to add. Those Fibre type gaskets that I used for the blower are not reusable once the motor, etc. is removed. I have a roll of a general type gasket for automotive use I bought along time ago just sitting around. You can cut any size gasket using this stuff. It's brown about 1/16 thick, wonder if this can be used? Not sure though if it would stand up to the heat? Was thinking of tracing the motor mount with holes and cutting a gasket when I remove the motor again. Thoughts? Just looking at the package of this gasket material says, Company is NEA, EZ cut to use for many automotive, industrial, and household applications. Made in USA.
 
How many bags of pellets have gone through the stove since the Oct. clean?
 
Have you cleaned the nipple on the exhaust housing where the combustion blower is,could be a bad combustion blower that quits after getting good and hot.could also try a jumper wire on the vacum switch wires.
 
Have you cleaned the nipple on the exhaust housing where the combustion blower is,could be a bad combustion blower that quits after getting good and hot.could also try a jumper wire on the vacum switch wires.
Yes I cleaned the nipple using a small stiff brush that fits inside it. The blower always runs and I have never heard it stop running yet. How do you do the jumper wire? Just connect the 2 wires together, and keep the hose connected?
 
I actually go through 1 1/2 bags in 24 hours.......
So since Oct when you say you last did a full clean, you've burned approx 125 bags....2 1/2 tons. Time for a full exhaust clean out, don't you think?
 
So since Oct when you say you last did a full clean, you've burned approx 125 bags....2 1/2 tons. Time for a full exhaust clean out, don't you think?[/quote
I didn't realize it was that many bags to date. I always looked at needing a full clean "Once a year" rather than bags burnt through stove! Well I've learned again. Thank You. I will update as well after I take the blower section apart when cleaning to actually see how bad it was. Imacman, did you see my post on the Gasket material? I will try it, unless the blower motor gasket is still intact and not disintegrated. You'd think that a better gasket material can be made whereas you can use the same gasket a few times in a row since no water is involved anywhere on a pellet stove to wear it out quicker. I think it's like $12 for shipping this heavy gasket to your home...lol, from england stovewerks. Thanks again!
 
I took the stove apart, Fully again the past few days. Still got another E1 Error code after 8 hours of running. There was not a ton of ash build up as thought inside the exhaust blower area, or the flue. I was surprised. Since I kept hearing that the vacuum switch Hardly is ever the problem, englander support told me to suck on the end (Nipple side) to listen for a clicking sound in the switch, it was there. Then was told it is probably ok. Can someone tell me How to Bypass that vacuum switch so I can run it awhile to see "IF" it's defective, Please? Just coneect the two wires together or something? Thank You.
 
I took the stove apart, Fully again the past few days. Still got another E1 Error code after 8 hours of running. There was not a ton of ash build up as thought inside the exhaust blower area, or the flue. I was surprised. Since I kept hearing that the vacuum switch Hardly is ever the problem, englander support told me to suck on the end (Nipple side) to listen for a clicking sound in the switch, it was there. Then was told it is probably ok. Can someone tell me How to Bypass that vacuum switch so I can run it awhile to see "IF" it's defective, Please? Just coneect the two wires together or something? Thank You.

With the stove off and unplugged, tie the two wires together and tape so it doesn't accidentally make contact with anything. Don't forget to remember the orientation of the wiring on the switch. Your issue is probably the vacuum switch that runs to the firebox. Give it a go and see what happens.
 
With the stove off and unplugged, tie the two wires together and tape so it doesn't accidentally make contact with anything. Don't forget to remember the orientation of the wiring on the switch. Your issue is probably the vacuum switch that runs to the firebox. Give it a go and see what happens.
Thanks for the info, slvrblkk. I will try that. I did everything else the right way as far as a through cleaning. Also.....Do I leave the vacuum hose on the same nipple (bottom nipple on the switch) as it is now when I bypass the switch?
 
With the stove off and unplugged, tie the two wires together and tape so it doesn't accidentally make contact with anything. Don't forget to remember the orientation of the wiring on the switch. Your issue is probably the vacuum switch that runs to the firebox. Give it a go and see what happens.
I am new to this mess, We have had out stove for about 8 years and now I am getting the E-1 alarms. I have changed gaskets an and cleaned "EVERYTHING" . So far , with in the last year, door gasket, both augers, burn pot gasket, new flu pipe, blower motor. I think it might be time for a new stove. Not sure if I'll go back to newenglanderstove or not :(
 
Why? You just rebuilt the damn thing?
You would think it's rebuilt. I still keep getting the E-1 codes and it shuts down after about 3 hours ! The tech at newendlandstoves, said to try to by-pass the vac switch and see if it still dies. He says if it keeps running the vac switch could be bad. I hope that's it, I have changed everything else ! :(
 
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