2012-2013 Blaze King Performance Thread(everything BK)

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Mine is welded my stove was built in 06, I "believe" Todd and Highbeam have posted theirs were not welded.

Yeah, mine isn't welded so you have to loosen the outside nut and tighten the inside nut to get a tighter seal on the door. My Princess is a 2011 model.
 
I'll check it out and try to move it closer to the stove. If it doesn't change I'll just bypass it. It's my luck the fans don't work the hotter it gets!
 
Do any of you guys have a good solution for cleaning the convection deck? I haven't come up with a better solution than compressed air and my wife says its a non-starter in the living room.
 
And off the subject:

Where do I find the serial number? I looked on the side the bypass lever is on but don't see it. Do I have to remove the side shield? I need the number to send in my warrantee card
 
And off the subject:

Where do I find the serial number? I looked on the side the bypass lever is on but don't see it. Do I have to remove the side shield? I need the number to send in my warrantee card

The WH sticker on the back. Some have a number stamped on the side of the top plate, but mine doesn't.
 
The WH sticker on the back. Some have a number stamped on the side of the top plate, but mine doesn't.

My serial number is on the rear label but since you can have a 6" rear clearance it can be tough to read it. I also have another number stamped into the side of the top plate. Right rear if you are standing in front. The numbers are different so I called BK and either will work for warranty.

The nut inside the stove on my latch is welded but the newest stoves are not. The new online manual tells you how to adjust the latch with the non-welded nut and also the parts blowup shows the inner nut as separate. I only worry that my inner welded nut will one day have its threads buggered up by creosote or corrosion but it won't be hard ot repair if that were to ever happen.
 
Do any of you guys have a good solution for cleaning the convection deck? I haven't come up with a better solution than compressed air and my wife says its a non-starter in the living room.

That is a bugger. You must mean under the deck? Since the chimney runs through the deck you can't really remove it for cleaning but then again, it is covered up and being dirty isn't as visible anyway. Use compressed air when your wife is away, its just a little dust that has accumulated. You can also slide the deck up the pipe a few inches carefully as not to scratch the chimney and then wipe under it. There is nothing holding that deck down.
 
Cripes, didn't notice it was a king.
 
My stove cooled down enough for me to check inside, that hunk of metal appears to be a nut welded on, or something resembling a nut, Im thinking yours fell off, you can probably fix it by getting another nut and using two to hold the latch on. Maybe get it welded in the spring, check inside your firebox, if it fell off its probably in there somewhere. Let us know how you made out.
Nut on the outside, nut on the inside. Had to let the stove cool down to get to the inside one obviously, but now I am back up and running. 2012 model stove for reference.
 
Nut on the outside, nut on the inside. Had to let the stove cool down to get to the inside one obviously, but now I am back up and running. 2012 model stove for reference.

Glad it worked out! :)
 
I ordered a new latch and bought a smaller jamb nut, I installed it today, it gives me more room to adjust the door and I got it nice and tight today. My old one was beat up from trying to adjust it the first time, it was really on tight, probably caked with creosote.
 
Been burning my stove for almost a month now and love it. Real glad I have it as it is -20F out tonight......

Anyway, couple of comparison questions. The removable bypass handle on my stove has a ton of rotational slop in it. By this i mean the handle is loose on the shaft it slides onto. I can turn it a decent amount before it starts to twist the bypass shaft. Also, the wedge on the door latch seems to be wearing prematurly. Have you guys ran into this?

I've been able to tweak thermostat and fan settings to achieve 24/7 burning with 12hr loads in my cold drafty house. In a month I've only had to light 2 fires!

Thanks
 
The removable bypass handle on my stove has a ton of rotational slop in it. By this i mean the handle is loose on the shaft it slides onto. I can turn it a decent amount before it starts to twist the bypass shaft. Also, the wedge on the door latch seems to be wearing prematurly. Have you guys ran into this?

Yep..same here.
Should be a set screw on the handle imo...and my wedge is wearing bad also.
I would think you would find these issues on a 1000 dollar stove but not on these BK's.
Also i had to re weld the catch that flips the by-pass open on mine..inside the stove..took the pipe off to do it.
Stove is on 3rd season.
 
Same with mine, not crazy about the whole handle set up, seems plain jane and cheesy compared to other stoves Ive seen. I bought a new latch since I butchered the original, you can get a new handle for about $30 if I remember correctly.
 
Hello, I'm new here and have a question regarding the BK stoves. I'm wondering what your thoughts are on using either a Princess or a King to heat my garage. A little about the garage. It is currently 16x24. to that, I'm planning on expanding it by ading a 32x40 addition onto it. ten foot ceilings throughout, poured concrete floor. three "insulated" garage doors, and two entrance doors. I have a ceiling fan in the current garage and plan on adding two more with the addition. All walls, 2x6 and insulated, as well as r50 in the attic.

I'm in Ontario, Canada and temps get down to 0f regularly in the winter.

Do you think the King or Princess would be enough to hear the garage to approx 70-72f ?

Appreciate any advice.
 
Are you planning on heating it 24/7? Seems like a lot of $$$ for a shop heater. If it was going cold at night, or for days at a time, I'd look at a wood furnace. They move large amounts of heated air for a quick warm up, and you could run ducts to the other end of the building if you want to.
 
I'm wondering what your thoughts are on using either a Princess or a King to heat my garage.

Here's the thing. Cat stoves are superior at keeping a place warm for a long time. Not many folks are interested in keeping a fire going all the time in an outbuilding. If your goal is to walk into a cold shop and heat it up and then let it cool off again then the BK is not the best stove. You would be way better off with a huge non-cat like an NC30 that you can be rougher with and really get gobs of heat fast. With a big non-cat you can burn trash like woodworking cutoffs, cardboard, beer cans, wet wood, whatever. The big non-cat will cost about 1/3 what the BK will cost as well.

If you have some reason to maintain heat 24/7 in the garage then the long burn times of the BK will make that easier.
 
I would like to heat it 24/7, as I spend a fair amount of time in there. Plus I don't want to have to worry about anything freezing like paint, liquids etc. It would be preferable to have it comfortable all the time instead of going from cold to hot and back again. I thought with the long burn times for the BK's this would accomplish this?

On the other hand I'm not 100% set on the BK, hence the questions. I'm not opposed to something like the NC30, but wonder if it would burn long enough to dry the floor from snow and slush covered cars? Also, I would assume I would use much more fuel with the NC30 than the BK?
 
My t-stat has changed as of late. At first I thought it was the colder weather causing me to dial lower and lower but now I noticed my t-stat doesn't completely close til I set it at #1 where it use to close just below 1.5. Maybe it just needed to get broke in? Anyone else notice this in their stoves?
 
I would like to heat it 24/7, as I spend a fair amount of time in there. Plus I don't want to have to worry about anything freezing like paint, liquids etc. It would be preferable to have it comfortable all the time instead of going from cold to hot and back again. I thought with the long burn times for the BK's this would accomplish this?

On the other hand I'm not 100% set on the BK, hence the questions. I'm not opposed to something like the NC30, but wonder if it would burn long enough to dry the floor from snow and slush covered cars? Also, I would assume I would use much more fuel with the NC30 than the BK?

I think for what you describe, the ability to go low/slow with the Princess would make it ideal for your situation. You could easily heat your space on one reload a day with nearly zero fuss (once you get the hang of the stove, and assuming your wood is dry). No other stove comes close to the burn times we all get in the Princess.
 
I would like to heat it 24/7, as I spend a fair amount of time in there. Plus I don't want to have to worry about anything freezing like paint, liquids etc. It would be preferable to have it comfortable all the time instead of going from cold to hot and back again. I thought with the long burn times for the BK's this would accomplish this?

On the other hand I'm not 100% set on the BK, hence the questions. I'm not opposed to something like the NC30, but wonder if it would burn long enough to dry the floor from snow and slush covered cars? Also, I would assume I would use much more fuel with the NC30 than the BK?

You're right. The BK is the best stove to accomplish 24/7 heating in an outbuilding. It will require the least attention of any stove on the market since you only have to load it once every day or even a bit longer, up to 40 hours. I would recommend the king model since you will get longer burn time. Honestly though, a woodstove is not a good idea for maintaining a warm garage. You will find yourself with another chore of keeping a fire going in a building that you don't use often. The fire will go out. You would be better off, even financially, to install some sort of thermostatic heat out there. A hanging unit heater is the most common choice.

The NC30 will burn long enough to accomplish your goals as well. In fact, it will make just as much heat as the BK but you will have to load it more often. If both the NC30 and the BK are burned in their upper output range then wood consumption will be similar. All modern stoves are quite efficient in the upper output ranges.

My insurance company is State Farm and they promised to drop me if I installed a wood stove in my detached shop even though the county would approve the installation. It is against the fire code, the NFPA, to install a woodstove in a garage.
 
If I was trying to heat a garage or out building I would really look at an indoor or outdoor boiler with storage and heat my house at the same time. The up front cost will be more but in the long run it would probably well worth it.
 
Skipping town, be home Sunday ;) I split a couple of small ones to fill the gaps, but they wouldn't fit.

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My t-stat has changed as of late. At first I thought it was the colder weather causing me to dial lower and lower but now I noticed my t-stat doesn't completely close til I set it at #1 where it use to close just below 1.5. Maybe it just needed to get broke in? Anyone else notice this in their stoves?

My stove is cold due to burn bans, damn it, so I decided to check out the stat for you. Early in the season I checked a cold stove and got a clank of stat closing at #1 and today after 1.5 cords of low btu wood I still get a loud clank at #1. So no change. I have been burning mostly at #2 and even using the fans quite a bit since we've had a cold snap with temps in the teens for over a week. Glass still a mess, can't burn it clean even at 2.25. The fans on this stove make a huge difference in output.
 
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