Warped baffle

[Foragefarmer]

I have a slightly post EPA Haughs freestanding stove in the rental cottage on my farm. Well the tenants didn't tell me the door gasket was going bad till half the gasket was gone and the stove had overfired and warped the baffle and dropped into the firebox. Visually everything else looks good with the stove. It is a very basic design.

Haughs is no longer in business but the baffle is a very simple 12" by 25 5/8 inch piece of 3/16 steel with a 10 degree bend at 3/4" on one side.

I don't see why my local metal supply can't cut and bend a piece for me. Does anyone know if mild plate steel will work for this application?

 

[topoftheriver]

You might try buying a piece of vermiculite and cutting it to size yourself. That should solve the warping.

 

[ridemgis]

You might try buying a piece of vermiculite and cutting it to size yourself. That should solve the warping.

That ten degree bend in vermiculite should be challenging! ;>}

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Would a kaowool blanket under the current baffle keep it up there? I'm not sure how the baffle is supported in the stove. I imagine the mild steel replacement would be fine though.

Matt

 

[Foragefarmer]

I think the 10 degree bend is for strength on the top edge. Metal baffle is max to fit through the door. Baffle rests on 1" welded in angle iron.

 

[BrotherBart]

Mild steel works fine. Every few years I used to have the local iron works bend up a new one for my old stove. They used the original one for measurements and angles for the bends. Always charged me fifty bucks material and labor.

 

[topoftheriver]

That ten degree bend in vermiculite should be challenging! ;>}

Doesn't it fit flat on top of the tubes? Admittedly, Mine has a lip on the inner side going against the back wall with a roll underneath. Even my Englander 25-3500 has a flat steel baffle with the beveled edfge toward the front, which makes sense for making the system work properly. If I am incorrect, then please, let me know how it works right. Good Luck anyway, which ever route you take.

 

[ridemgis]

Doesn't it fit flat on top of the tubes? Admittedly, Mine has a lip on the inner side going against the back wall with a roll underneath. Even my Englander 25-3500 has a flat steel baffle with the beveled edfge toward the front, which makes sense for making the system work properly. If I am incorrect, then please, let me know how it works right. Good Luck anyway, which ever route you take.

Don't mind me, I'm only kidding. Both the vermiculite and BrotherBart's suggestion (in another thread) to grab a piece of mesh free Hardi-backer from Home Depot sound like great temporary solutions.

 

[topoftheriver]

Don't mind me, I'm only kidding. Both the vermiculite and BrotherBart's suggestion (in another thread) to grab a piece of mesh free Hardi-backer from Home Depot sound like great temporary solutions.

Temporary is fine, Go Bro.

 

[Foragefarmer]

Don't mind me, I'm only kidding. Both the vermiculite and BrotherBart's suggestion (in another thread) to grab a piece of mesh free Hardi-backer from Home Depot sound like great temporary solutions.

My temporary was to jump on it on the concrete floor of my shop and put it in a vise a couple different ways and then jump on it some more. Not perfect but ought to hold them for a day or two.

Thanks to BB for the positive input on my plan. I was thinking about $50-60 for the work from my iron supplier.

 

[BrotherBart]

My temporary was to jump on it on the concrete floor of my shop and put it in a vise a couple different ways and then jump on it some more. Not perfect but ought to hold them for a day or two.

My S-10 Blazer was driven over mine more than once to flatten it back out. Later the 3/4 ton Suburban.