Having issue with a Fahrenheit Pellet Furnance

[kinsmanstoves]

I have sold them in the past and all mine needed 4" venting and an OAK. I have not sold one in a few years but they are good units. I think a little to complicated for a first time stove owner but still a good unit.

Eric

 

[DexterDay]

Did you reseal the Venting to the Combustion blower?

That would cause smoke to get sucked up the back of the unit?

The vent must be Siliconed onto the blower collar and the manifold needs a new gasket (every time its removed)

If you just slid the exhaust back on, I would say thats your culprit.

 

[Earl Beach]

First let me say thanks for the help on this.
So I figured out how the smoke is getting into the hopper but at the cost of another issue.
I have the new manifold and the draft fan is new as well. I have checked the seals and all seem to be good so last night the furnance was running and again it started to smoke from the hopper. I turned it off and started removing the pellets from the hopper. The smoke is being created by the draft being to strong and starting the pellets on fire in the auger. So I turnr the unti off and cleaned the auger ect. Now the unit ignitor does not go on. Any ideas here owuld be helpful. I checked the fuse on the board thinking that could be the issue but its not. thanks

 

[DexterDay]

First let me say thanks for the help on this.
So I figured out how the smoke is getting into the hopper but at the cost of another issue.
I have the new manifold and the draft fan is new as well. I have checked the seals and all seem to be good so last night the furnance was running and again it started to smoke from the hopper. I turned it off and started removing the pellets from the hopper. The smoke is being created by the draft being to strong and starting the pellets on fire in the auger. So I turnr the unti off and cleaned the auger ect. Now the unit ignitor does not go on. Any ideas here owuld be helpful. I checked the fuse on the board thinking that could be the issue but its not. thanks

If the draft was To Strong, it would just suck air out of the hopper and there would be less chance to catch the auger flight on fire

Something is creating a Pull on the hopper (sucking air up the auger means the hopper is negative pressure and/or the firebox is positive. I doubt its Positive) So my guess you is one of 2 things, but both have a common denominator. The hopper is not sealed/sealing properly.

This is gonna be a PITA, but the lid on top needs to be Tight and you more than likely will need to remove the sides pf the unit, so that you can remove the Top (yes, the entire top section needs to come off) and replace the inner Hopper gasket

There is a gasket that is between the hopper and the black body of furnace. The sides need to be removed to take the top off. You also have to remove the 10" plenum.

The hopper should be a negative pressure area. The stronger the draft, the more Negative pressure is applied (meaning sucking air Out of hopper, not pushing air in)


Did you seal the combustion blower snout really well? Was the vent sealed well to the snout?

Any pics of the burning pellets? How about a Short video? You would be able to see the flame going into the auger drop chute? No? I can see my pellets from my exterior window....

 

[DexterDay]

As for the ignitor? Did you accidentally switch the ignition to Manual on the Control board?

Is the ignitor glowing? Is the air pump still working and just no ignitor?

 

[Earl Beach]

I can put a video up of the stove but since it's not lighting there is not much to see.
When it is running the flame does not go into the auger snout, but I assure you that where the fire was even some of the pellets in the bottom of the hooper were embers.
I don't see the igniter doing anything. It used to make a humming noise and now now. Will the ignition light up with the inner door open?
Thanks for the help. The hopper door does not seem to be sealing well at all

 

[343amc]

When I gutted mine, at the advice of Dex, I found the seal between the top panel and the hopper had a small gap where the two ends met, probably 1/4" or so. I put some black RTV on that to fill it in. It isn't bad to get to once the hot and cold air ducts are disconnected and gets you into places that are hard to access for a good cleaning and lube of the actuator arms.

The gap in that gasket was above and beyond the issues I had with the extended hopper that wasn't sealed worth a darn. I didn't put that back on. I'll probably correct that over the summer.

My issue was different in that I was pulling a lot if air through the hopper, putting a "hole" in the flame.

I also tweaked the hopper latch a bit to get it to seal tighter.

I can't offer any ignitor advice as mine is manual ignition only.