Countertop paint

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I am sorely tempted to try it... My cabinets are built-ins made by my late grandfather... there is no just swapping out the counter tops... and the laminate is just hideous...
 
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I am sorely tempted to try it... My cabinets are built-ins made by my late grandfather... there is no just swapping out the counter tops... and the laminate is just hideous...
Look up spreadatone it looks easier to do and its waterbase so less stink.

Pete
 
All depends on the construction.
My counter tops have an Oak surround, nicely done. I jacked-up the tiles when I replaced the sink, so I had to install new tile.
A Roto-zip w/ a grout bit, a masonry chisel and hammer, and a few beers. Existing tile top came out without fuss-or-muss, pretty easy.
I used an oscillating multi-tool to scrape off the residue from the plywood sub-counter top.
Once clean, install new stuff, whatever it may be. It was fairly straightforward and easy.
Biggest hassle was re-finishing the Oak surround after the new grout was done. All the wiping took the finish off, so had to do a light sand and re-finish of the surround. Not a big deal, just irk'ed me a bit.
 
my countertops are 1968-70 era plywood screwed DOWN with #14 wood screws with formica glued down with contact cement... there is enough countertop area to require about 5 sheets of new laminate..I am willing to try the epoxy paint before trying to scrape up 40+ year old laminate or laminating over it... either way I'm looking at $150 for the paint... or $500+ for just the laminate sheets...
 
Look up spreadatone it looks easier to do and its waterbase so less stink.

Pete

Honestly, I'd rather deal with the smell for a couple of days... than to deal with underperforming waterborne paints... Perhaps I'm old school about paint... but sometimes there is no replacement for VOC's...
 
my countertops are 1968-70 era plywood screwed DOWN with #14 wood screws with formica glued down with contact cement... there is enough countertop area to require about 5 sheets of new laminate..I am willing to try the epoxy paint before trying to scrape up 40+ year old laminate or laminating over it... either way I'm looking at $150 for the paint... or $500+ for just the laminate sheets...
Bret, my countertops are early 70's. That old adhesive is sooo brittle it comes off quite easy. An oscillating multi-tool won't even jack-up the plywood substrate.
I picked up a "Norge" multi-tool at Lumber Liquidators for less than $50. It has performed above and beyond all expectations, for the price.
I just hate to see a new surface applied to a failing substrate as a "patch". It just never seems to work out in the long run.
 
Bret, my countertops are early 70's. That old adhesive is sooo brittle it comes off quite easy. An oscillating multi-tool won't even jack-up the plywood substrate.

tile isn't the same as sheet laminate... not even close...

and for the record.. there's nothing wrong with my current countertops... other than it's fugly....
 
tile isn't the same as sheet laminate... not even close...

and for the record.. there's nothing wrong with my current countertops... other than it's fugly....
Guess I forgot to mention one of the countertops I replaced that was laminate/FRP glued. I stand by this,- the old glue/adhesive will be brittle, and come up easy.
The end result is up to you, just trying to help.
edit- This one was a challenge, being 48"x 24" with a sink enclosure on one end.Had 4" backsplash plus a decent bullnose on the front. It all came up, and was replaced with new tile.
 
My tops are from the 60's and are not only ugly but removing them means pulling the cabinets because the idiot that did it super screwed everything and had no idea what he was doing. I am willing to try a sample from both and see which is better or more durable. I am gonna call both companies Monday and see if they will send sample kits to try out. FYI though some of there products aren't the greatest in my opinion Rustoleum has really good customer service ! They refunded me the professional enamel and I just wanted a can that worked right after trying 3 cans that only sprayed half way 2 days later there where 3 cans on my step and a check in the box.

Pete
 
Honestly, I'd rather deal with the smell for a couple of days... than to deal with underperforming waterborne paints... Perhaps I'm old school about paint... but sometimes there is no replacement for VOC's...

Don't underestimate water base we used water based paint heavily in the military and some of the stuff is bullet proof. It's all in the bonding agent / catalyst if needed and prep work. I used Duplicolor Truck Bed Armor on a few things last year it has Kevlar in it and that stuff is bullet proof ( its water base ). If you buy cheap you get cheap even with Rustoleum who has let me down more than once. Besides after looking last night there are a bunch of companies who do the counter top paint. Check with a local paint supply if you have one near you. We have a Sherwin Williams near us and they have a version as well ! I can't figure out how I ,issued this stuff for so many years !


Pete
 
Sherwin carries one too? I shall inquire... I have an account there :D
 
mine are white with metal flake..... *shudder*... I guess it's what my Grandmother wanted at the time...
Let me know what they tell you about it the guy I talked to was not to knowledgable he just new they had it. More info would be great !

Pete
 
mine are white with metal flake..... *shudder*... I guess it's what my Grandmother wanted at the time...

A few more years, and those will be collectible.
 
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