EKO RK 2001U Problems WONT run HIGHER SETPOINT THAN 150

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Ryedale

Member
Jul 30, 2008
41
Southwest Michigan
Well I started to get error codes, and flickering display about a week ago. I called New Horizons Corp and he sent me a "used" but rebuilt controller, I put it in last night and it started, but no matter where I put my dial set point, the fan shuts off when the controller reads 150 or 152.
I can rotate it to 190 195 etc, it "takes the set point" but it simply will not run.

I restored the factory settings in the controller setup, but it just sits there, and wont run.
I sent an email to NewHorizons, but no reply yet.

So the deal was this.. I'll send you a replacement because I'm barely out of warranty (5 year even though I never ran it til 2011 due to my exotic long installation and storage project) as long as you send me the old (original) back for a rebuild. .....ok no problem.

so after the replacement failed to work properly, I though. I'll just replace the capacitor on the original one, which I know will take the high setpoint... and then just send him back the replacement that doesn't work, and all will be good.

So...after reading here, I though I'd be clever and get the Radio Shack 2200 MFD 35v capacitor for my original as others have done here. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...lashing-blinking-e2-code.104233/#post-1356944 but after doing that....... The old one has the same exact thing happening, it now runs, no flicker, but as soon as the sensor/display says 150 to 152.... it shuts off.
UGGG so frustrating.

Has anybody got any insight into what is going on? I'd sure like to get to the bottom of this.
BTW when I first turned on my old controller it said E3 (overheat I guess). Do I need to do a hard reset of this controller, is there any hidden functions we all don't know about?

Thanks for any help.
 
Don't think it would cause this, but have you checked the resistance of the sensor and compaired it to the chart? Do you think the E3 code was correct, or did it not get that hot? The sensor is really the only thing the controller has to go on. Did you confirm the boiler temp was really 150?

Just my thoughts, let us know!
TS
 
Don't think it would cause this, but have you checked the resistance of the sensor and compaired it to the chart? Do you think the E3 code was correct, or did it not get that hot? The sensor is really the only thing the controller has to go on. Did you confirm the boiler temp was really 150?

Just my thoughts, let us know!

TS

Taylor, thanks for the reply.
Is there a chart for temp and corresponding values? I can certainly test it. I'll get some boiling and ice water and see what it reads on the display.
 
Taylor, thanks for the reply.
Is there a chart for temp and corresponding values? I can certainly test it. I'll get some boiling and ice water and see what it reads on the display.


Ok after a quick test.
Boiling water Display read as high as 208 and then went into E2 alarm
Ice water, took a couple minutes but it went right to 32 and stayed there.
I checked it both ways twice, and it seems to repeat, and be stable. It's just that anything over 150 the fan shuts off.
I have Min boiler temp at 150
Max boiler temp at 195

Pump is set to come on at 126 but the Tstat will only open to the storage tank at 160 and higher, so the fan will probably just shut off until this is resolved. Strange.

Does anybody have an explanation of E3 that makes sense?
 
UPDATE
I spoke with New Horizon Corp today, and he suggested adding a jumper from 3 to 4 on the controller input (this is where a home or remote stat would be located.
Now it's working.
Whats so strange is that since starting this for the first time last year (October 2011) I never had a jumper in there but it worked flawlessly.
Just wow.
I bet is says somewhere in the directions that if you don't have a remote T-Stat to jumper out 3 to 4. I still have trouble making sense of the manual sometimes so if its in there, I either read it and mis-understood it, or it's not in there.

Anyway, thanks for the couple suggestions .
 
Oorah Ryedale! Glad to hear you got it figured out. May you heat in peace and experience no more problems. :cool:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Taylor Sutherland
Status
Not open for further replies.