Liner questions

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Lowtech

Member
Nov 27, 2012
28
CT
I've been planning on installing a wood burning stove this spring/summer. I had my fireplace chimney cleaned today and asked the sweep what size liner would fit down my chimney. He told me he could fit a 6" liner in with some work(due to some twists and turns), given that it's not a straight shot. He went on to say that there was not enough room to wrap the liner with insulation. So my question is, is it ok to install a liner with out wrapping insulation around the out side of the liner.
Also most of the stoves I've been looking at have a 7" flue exit. Is it ok to use a reducer and should it be installed before or after the "T" at the rear flue connection.
 
Which stoves have a 7" flue? Most are either 6" or 8".

Whether you can pull off downsizing the flue depends on the stove you choose and the length of your chimney? How tall is it?

Matt
 
So my question is, is it ok to install a liner with out wrapping insulation around the out side of the liner.
Our flex liner is installed with no insulation (at least as far as I can tell) in the old fireplace flue and seems to work okay. It will just take a bit longer to heat up and not run quite as hot. I've cleaned the chimney once each spring and have only gotten two handfuls of soot each time. The bottom of the liner is always clean when I've looked, the deposits are up at the top.
 
The insulation issue depends on where the chimney is located. Does it go up through the house or is it on an outside wall? What is the chimney made of? Also, depending on the chimney, the pour in material may be an option.
 
Is your chimney on the outside wall or inner house wall ? Interior chimney will stay warm naturally and work ok with no insulation, outside wall chimney will work the best with insulation (made a big difference in my exterior chimney.
My House insurance did not increase and they kept me insured with the EPA stove & liner (UL listed) it had to be insulated to pass there requirements. Some insurance's will not insure homes with stoves, or jack the rate not installed to requirements. Just a little info I experienced.

Todd2
 
The chimney is on and outside wall and I should say it's outside, it doesn't go thru the attic. The chimney is stone with what looks like a red trocota liner. I've never hear of a pour in liner. I've been thinking about a Woodstock 'Keystone"
 
Though I know somebody that ran a Keystone just fine into a six inch liner Woodstock is emphatic in the installation instructions about not using less than a seven inch flue. Where the hell they think you are gonna run out and get connector pipe is beyond me. Much less seven inch liner.

In the manual they push for using eight inch.
 
The chimney is on and outside wall and I should say it's outside, it doesn't go thru the attic. The chimney is stone with what looks like a red trocota liner. I've never hear of a pour in liner. I've been thinking about a Woodstock 'Keystone"
I dont know why the have a 7" starter (Keystone) But I think I remember reading on there site they have a reducer and you can run it on a 6" flue in some setups. Someone else will probably post on this soon that has that stove. The 7" deal is rather odd, must be a reason for different installs.
I can say Woodstock is great to deal with as a stove company.

Todd2
 
Status
Not open for further replies.