T5 performance update

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People go to Cuba via third country or qualify for a travel license.
The restriction isn't as much going there as it is spending money there and violating the embargo is the way I understand it.

Except for a quick stop in Puerto Rico I haven't been to the Caribbean. ( unless Key West counts )
 
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Took me a hundred years to figure it out !!! Bet she knows how to run it right away ::-)

Have fun eh!
LOL but now you're a T5 guru! Hopefully she will not need to run it.. I have a little more than 1/4 tank of oil and that should be enough until Friday night when I return..

Ray
 
Nope we are still not allowed there.. Think it's about time the USA drops the travel restriction to Cuba! Hear it's nice there and close too! We will be in the tropics.. Low temp~ 80 and high temp 95.. Oddly I will miss the wood burning I am crazy lol..

Ray
Once a Stove Junky always a Stove Junky:) Enjoy your trip to the fullest Ray !

Todd 2
 
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Enjoying the read but I thought Blaze King stoves only had glass that dirty! ;)
 
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Out grabbing some future fuel for the T5 today ;)

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Said he was returning Friday night, so hopefully you'll hear from him tonight or tomorrow...let us know?

I was in Maui in December for my elder son's wedding....easy to forget the woodburning world when you are in a tropical paradise.:)
 
Forgot all about him heading outta town rideau <> ==c

Bet you guys had a great time eh ;) And good for him and his wedding!..

loon
 
Warm weather is here and the T5 is melting me out of the house ::-)

Gonna try running it this week 'without' the secondary happening..

Except for the extra creasote in the chimney should there be something else to watch out for?

loon
 
Warm weather is here and the T5 is melting me out of the house ::-)

Gonna try running it this week 'without' the secondary happening..

Except for the extra creasote in the chimney should there be something else to watch out for?

loon

Not sure about the T5 but this is what I do with the T6, try letting the stove burn down to almost no coal bed, push all the coals to one side of the stove and then load it half or two thirds full and shut it down fairly quick so you have maybe one flame in the firebox and very slow secondary combustion. If I do this i can easily get an all night burn without overheating the house.
 
Warm weather is here and the T5 is melting me out of the house ::-)

Gonna try running it this week 'without' the secondary happening..

Except for the extra creasote in the chimney should there be something else to watch out for?

loon
Run smaller loads or load the stove cold then start the fire on top this will reduce the heat and give a long burn.. This way it burns from the top down with less heat..

Ray
 
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I started reading this thread when I realized the Spectrum I have in the sitting in the garage is essentially the same stove. We had mid 60s here yesterday, so we were cleaning out the garage. I decided to roll it outside, shoved six feet of vent pipe in it and lit it up. I put four small splits, some lumber scraps, and a firestarter in it. It took forever to get up to temp with the short stack, but I finally got it up to 400, started cutting the air back, and watched the smoke disappear. About five hours later, I shoveled the remaining unburnt wood and coals out so it could cool off and I could put it away.

It's an older model, built in '95. The only real difference I recall from looking at a Super 27 in the showroom is the air control on the right side of the door, instead of underneath. It controls both primary and secondary air, yes?

2013-03-11_10-24-21_155.jpg

The stove is going to our new place in northern Michigan. I hope to get the hearth pad done the first week in April, and get the chimney in over the summer. I'm excited to have something new to play with besides the boring BK.
 
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Hi Jeff,
On the T5 the air lever controls both primary and secondary air and probably does on your stove too.. I think you're gonna love that stove as they are easy to run with a short learning curve. I look forward to your findings!

Ray
 
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If my goofing off in the driveway was any indication, it's gonna be $350 well spent.

We won't be the only ones using it, as my MIL and sister are in on the deal, too. Seems to be pretty easy to figure out. The ash dump is nicely frozen and plugged with ash, so I won't have to worry about air leaks there.

Unfortunately, my findings will be pretty sporadic, as I will burn it maybe 6-8 times in a year. Seems like you guys have a good handle on it, and I'll try to keep up with you.
 
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Run a small bead of high-temp silicone behind it. Not too much, you don't want to saturate the gasket or create a lot of ooze. Then close the door and let it set up for 24 hrs.. That should hold it.
Just the info I needed! Will pick up some black RTV silicone.. Cleaned the stove yesterday and noticed the top of the gasket was drooping.. The gasket still looks pretty good so I think I will just glue it back on..

Thanks!

Ray
 
Ray,

I agonized for two yrs with the gasket falling off, the rutland cement that came with the first Tractor Supply Kit I purchased was clear, and would not last but a cpl weeks, it would actually "foam" out a couple days after replacing it and curing it, then it would turn brittle white and crumble.

I looked and found another rutland kit that had black adhesive, that was rated to a much higher temp than the original kit with the clear cement. I took off the door, took out the old gasket, and cleaned with a wire brush, used the new much thicker black adhesive, and replaced with a new gasket (not the OEM with the peel tape). And it lasted the last yr no problems. Look at the temp rating of whatever it is you buy, buy the highest temp possible. I think the black stuff was 2000 and the clear 500 ->1000 - don't quote me on that, but peruse the rutland site and you can find the specs of the different types of adhesive that they sell.

do yourself a favor, take off the door to redo the job. it was not that hard to do with the door laying on the floor. hardest part was remounting the door by myself - a second pair of hands would make it much easier to mount.

you will have to wait til the next burning season as both require curing with the stove burning.
 
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Ray,

I agonized for two yrs with the gasket falling off, the rutland cement that came with the first Tractor Supply Kit I purchased was clear, and would not last but a cpl weeks, it would actually "foam" out a couple days after replacing it and curing it, then it would turn brittle white and crumble.

I looked and found another rutland kit that had black adhesive, that was rated to a much higher temp than the original kit with the clear cement. I took off the door, took out the old gasket, and cleaned with a wire brush, used the new much thicker black adhesive, and replaced with a new gasket (not the OEM with the peel tape). And it lasted the last yr no problems. Look at the temp rating of whatever it is you buy, buy the highest temp possible. I think the black stuff was 2000 and the clear 500 ->1000 - don't quote me on that, but peruse the rutland site and you can find the specs of the different types of adhesive that they sell.

do yourself a favor, take off the door to redo the job. it was not that hard to do with the door laying on the floor. hardest part was remounting the door by myself - a second pair of hands would make it much easier to mount.

you will have to wait til the next burning season as both require curing with the stove burning.
Thanks for the info Madison! Does the product at this link work?

http://www.amazon.com/Rutland-Stove-Gasket-Cement-2-3-Ounce/dp/B000FKF80M

Ray
 
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Loon/Ray,

that is the stuff, note the product info, it is rated to 2000 degrees and you have to bake it to cure, one 2.3 oz tube is just barely enough, it is a little bit of a struggle to get it out of the tube as it is very thick so maybe purchase 2..., i did find in in TS, i think, but was part of a kit with the graphite impregnated gasket - which is what you want to use.
  • Temperature Rating 2000°F
  • Requires heat to cure
 
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