Header Size for Woodshed.

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daveswoodhauler

daveswoodhauler

Minister of Fire
May 20, 2008
1,847
Massachusetts
Ok, so this is the year I am going to finally build my woodshed. I am going to go with a simple version of the attached plan. My question is on the header size...the plan is for a width of 8 feet, and I would like to make it about 10 or 12 feet long. The plan calls for a 2X10 header...if I increase from 8 feet, to 10 or 12, would a 2X10 header still be sufficient? (Side posts are going to be 4X4's and the joists will be 2X4 16" on center)
 

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For the $$ difference, I would not even question going up to 2 x 12", but I build everything with the expectation that a dump truck might fall out of the sky at any moment.
 
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Jags said:
For the $$ difference, I would not even question going up to 2 x 12", but I build everything with the expectation that a dump truck might fall out of the sky at any moment.
Click to expand...

Gotta watch out for those sky-falling dump trucks. Good call.
 
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Thats what I was thinking (2X12). Also, in the center (front and back) I will have an additional 4X4 post for extra support.
Basically, I have a home built wood fence that I am going to dismantle as the kids don't need to be contained anymore. So, I'll have a ton of 4X4 posts, and appx (30) 8 foot sections of 1 X 6 cedar. My goal is to make as much of the shed using the fence materials.
 
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Usually for a header as such I see 2 2xs together... making it a 4x10.

In the past I've searched for load rating charts and I can't find solid info on it.
 
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I doubled mine...one inside and one outside, all 2x6, except the front one is a homemade lam beam of sorts and it's 1.75x8" if I remember correctly.
I'd go big, and if I had to do it over (and I may at some point), I'd notch the posts for the headers. Much stronger that way.
I did 2x6" for the roof @ 2' OC. Snow load hasn't been a problem....so far.
Heck, with that much already paid for material, make more than one. One for fresh split stuff, one for one year old stuff, then one you're pulling from.....rotate and repeat.;)

ETA: Keep us updated with ongoing pics, detailed drawings, splinter reports, etc., then the piece de resistance (I don't know how to do that in French)....a shed full of dry firewood.==c
popcorn.gif
 
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Going bigger won't hurt. Will you be bolting or nailing the header to the post?
 
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PapaDave said:
Man, I forgot,....... use drip edge. I had to go back and do mine (I forgot and someone here suggested it).
I'll probably remember some more stuff later. Maybe.
Click to expand...

Ditto that---I put drip edge on all 4 fascias of my shed (really need that in Oregon). Also, you can beef up the header-to-post connection w/Simpson "strong ties". And of course, please post in-process and completed project pics. ;)
 
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Thanks guys.
Well, my plan was to go with a somewhat post/beam type setup versus what is in the plans.
I was going to notch out the posts at the tops for the front and rear headers (if thats the right lingo) and then I was going to use some additional pieces of the 4 X 4's I have for bracing at the top and bottom of the posts on a 45 degree angle where the header meets the post.
I'm a bolt /screw kinda guy, so I was planning on bolting the headers up once I have the posts notched out.
Also, on the outside of one end, I am going to make a little cabinet with a door and small shed roof to hold garden tools for the MRs's....just gotta get rid of this snow so I can get this project going. Will post pics and all my screw ups, lol
 
Double up on the 2x10 or 2x12. As long as you have the material make it strong. I had a tree snap behind mine and land on the roof. It survived only because of the 4x4 structual supports I installed, free from a playground set.
 
Don't know how your weather compares, but I tried starting mine at the end of March, 3 years ago, and the ground was still frozen. I think I got most of the posts in the ground the 1st week of April.
It's all in my Woodshed thread.
 
2x10's or 2x12's are what I would use. Doubling up the header boards (one on either side of the 4x4 posts) would be plenty strong enough, and the fact that you aren't building a second floor on it, I wouldn't bother notching the header board into the top of the posts.....that's just my opinion.....

i'd be using 2x6 or 2x8 rafters every two feet on center for the sheeting on the roof. Bracing will beef the whole structure up. I'd probably notch the bracing into the posts, and put it between the header boards......

We expect full progress reports with pictures....or you're fired......:)
 
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You could double stack 2x6's to get your 2x12 also. Inside and out if you really want strength.
We get serious snow load here and I double stacked offset 2x10's under 22 and 24' rafters to get strength..
 
Nice, good info for me here. Thanks all.
I'm pretty much notching the post for more asthetic reasons than anything....just like the looks of tng/post-beam, etc.
Snow load isn't too bad here...but to be safe should I go with 2X6's on the joists? or perhaps just double up on a few of the 2X4's?
Will post pics, you guys will have a good laugh of my less than stellar carpentry skills, lol
 
daveswoodhauler said:
Nice, good info for me here. Thanks all.
I'm pretty much notching the post for more asthetic reasons than anything....just like the looks of tng/post-beam, etc.
Snow load isn't too bad here...but to be safe should I go with 2X6's on the joists? or perhaps just double up on a few of the 2X4's?
Will post pics, you guys will have a good laugh of my less than stellar carpentry skills, lol
Click to expand...
I'd go with at least 2x6 roof rafters, and I'd be doing 2x8 floor joists if it were my shed.

You'll be fine. It'll be ten times better than my shed......(I haven't built it yet!)
 
don't forget the asteriods.

My woddshed was built to withstand an asteroid strike. Stronger is better and costs only tiny bit more

But realisticly, It's a woodshed - you don't care about a little sag. I think a sufficient roof pitch and a metal roof ( allowing snow to slide off) is more important.
 
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And to save you grief down the road, make your floor joists and rim boards out of pressure treated, it'll hold up much better against the ground, and it will deter any termite infestation down the road. Anything that comes into contact with the ground (posts, joists, etc) I'd use PT. What are you planning for flooring? I plan on gapping my floorboards (actually will be recycling my buddy's deck) so air can get at the bottom of the stack, too.....
 
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I have plans for a pole building wood shed 24 X 8 and it uses a 2 X 10 for the header but it has posts every 8 feet so the 2 X 10 is supported every 8 feet, it uses 2 X6 rafters. The book calls for double 2 x 10's for a open span of 12 feet.
 
Everything you ever want to know about lumber spans- http://napasolanoicc.org/Links/IBCSpanTables_NapaSolanChapterFinal.pdf
These tables are for occupied buildings to be built to the building codes. It would be overkill for your simple cover shed. The 2X10 in the plan would be fine. 2X4 roof support also fine up to 10' spans. Consider your snow load in spacing the roof supports. Choose a weather resistant species of lumber. Probably whatever is used for wooden fencing in your area would be best. Pressure treated tends to warp.
 
Well you do what you want but in Mass. 2X4 rafters wont cut it (snow load), not sure I would ever do 2 X 4 rafters unless the span was about 6 feet.
 
oldspark said:
Well you do what you want but in Mass. 2X4 rafters wont cut it (snow load), not sure I would ever do 2 X 4 rafters unless the span was about 6 feet.
Click to expand...
The span is only 5'. I 've built freeway overpasses using 2x4 deck shoring to hold up several tons of concrete and steel placed on them. that is with 3/4" plywood on top of the 2x4, spaced 12" apart, 4' spans between girders. Snow is 7-20 pounds pcf, concrete 150 pcf. Built to plan, that shed will be just fine.
 
If you put an extra post in the middle you have cut the span in half. That will reduce the load on the beam considerably. If you do that you can put a divider in the centre of the shed and easily remove wood from either side. I didn't put a back on mine so I can get wood out frome either the front or back. Make it as big as you can, life will be good!
 
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Yea I was thinking he was going to make it more than the 5 feet wide if he was going to lengthen it.
 
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