Quadrafire Santa Fe sticky trap door

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I find that if I get a build up on the bottom plate if I run it on high for a bit and as soon as it starts to shut down and the pellets are finished burning, I pull the " lever " while it still hot, it will break loose the carbon build up.YMMV.
 
Have you pulled it all apart for a cleaning? There's a good chance your OEM locknut isn't anymore. The direction the trap moves may encourage the hardware to self tighten. I replaced mine with new hardware and an all metal locknut. I can back it off a tick and it holds adjustment just fine. If I get some buildup I just back it off a little more and pull away. Then just readjust to my liking. I've found you can go too loose and the burn goes to crap, so bear it in mind. As suggested above, a dime or less sag is beauty.
 
If you don't have the metal, an old aluminum pot might 'volunteer' for the job or an old metal tool box. You'd be surprised what might be looking for a new life. I have a big aluminum chassis from some long-forgotten ancient piece of electronics up in the attic calling me now! Aluminum melts at about 1200 F so I think it should be OK. If not, scrape the slag and start again. :eek: Brass or copper could also work and are easier to fashion than steel AND melt at even higher temps.

Excellent idea, tjnamtiw. I may have some old toolboxes laying around. I'll have a looksee and give it a shot!
 
I find that if I get a build up on the bottom plate if I run it on high for a bit and as soon as it starts to shut down and the pellets are finished burning, I pull the " lever " while it still hot, it will break loose the carbon build up.YMMV.
Sounds like a possible idea, DBCOOPER, however, my only concern would be dropping hot, spent pellets into the tray. Isn't that a fire hazard?
 
Have you pulled it all apart for a cleaning? There's a good chance your OEM locknut isn't anymore. The direction the trap moves may encourage the hardware to self tighten. I replaced mine with new hardware and an all metal locknut. I can back it off a tick and it holds adjustment just fine. If I get some buildup I just back it off a little more and pull away. Then just readjust to my liking. I've found you can go too loose and the burn goes to crap, so bear it in mind. As suggested above, a dime or less sag is beauty.
Mine's actually brand new, Dinger, having just installed it last Thursday. However, I can certainly look into replacing the the current OEM locknut with an all metal one.
 
Neither one of my quads even has a 'lock' nut. Just a plain nut but an all metal style locknut is great. Just not a nylock!
 
Thanks guys, seems like it's scrape the heck out of it. But so you know, I clean and scrape every day, for the first month I had no problem at all.Now the rod is really hard to pull out, and has to be tapped back in, even after scraping. Quadrafire might want to suggest a solvent for this problem. I spend more time getting the plate free than the rest of the maintenance combined.
WD40
 
WD40 might loosen it temporarily but it's not a long term solution. WD40 is fish oil, which will burn off. Better to use a anti-seize product like Never-Seize. Better yet is to adjust the gap as stated above to allow for some missed buildup.
 
When I had a Santa Fe I rubbed in powdered graphite and whenever I cleaned the pot I would give it a squirt of powder and it kept it from having any issues. Graphite is used for rocket nozzles so the temp is no problem. Used in lubricants and in can be found as a paint. I paint the underside of mower decks to keep grass from sticking. Available powder and paint is usually found at a good farm supply.
 
Sounds like a possible idea, DBCOOPER, however, my only concern would be dropping hot, spent pellets into the tray. Isn't that a fire hazard?

Once the fire is out the pellets are gone.There may be some clinker material but not a whole lot left to cause a fire hazard.Just wait a few minutes after the fly ash stops.
 
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Once the fire is out the pellets are gone.There may be some clinker material but not a whole lot left to cause a fire hazard.Just wait a few minutes after the fly ash stops.

I do the same as DBCOOPER. Works for me....Problem solved
 
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I had made a plate for the bottom of the pot door about 2 years ago, never have to scrap. 1/8 " stainless steel with just a little wiggle room , maybe an 1/16 or1/8th clearance around. The pot has two round holes on either side of the heater slot that are close to bottom , the plate blocks them very slightly. So had to file plate some to clear holes. You will be one happy camper when installed.
 
If you don't have the metal, an old aluminum pot might 'volunteer' for the job or an old metal tool box. You'd be surprised what might be looking for a new life. I have a big aluminum chassis from some long-forgotten ancient piece of electronics up in the attic calling me now! Aluminum melts at about 1200 F so I think it should be OK. If not, scrape the slag and start again. :eek: Brass or copper could also work and are easier to fashion than steel AND melt at even higher temps.



My guess is that it's a combination of factors, poor pellets being one of them. The pam is helping some, I use it sparingly. Countryboy suggested something I'm going to try.Heavy steel plates that dump when you pull the rod. I don't see how that couldn't work. Just have to figure what plate thickness would be best.


An update on my sticky plate problem, been working smooth as silk the last few days. I used spray canola oil on it, and I believe it coats and seasons the plate, something like a cast iron frying pan. I also loosened the bolt ever so slightly. So far it's been working great, I clean the stove once a day, scrape the plate twice a day. Works like new!
 
Yup, seems to be working better for me here too! I actually scrape the plate several times a day right before the blower quits which seems to be catching the carbon before it gets too hard to move the lever. Seems to work very well. Thanks much for all the advice, y'all!
 
An update on my sticky plate problem, been working smooth as silk the last few days. I used spray canola oil on it, and I believe it coats and seasons the plate, something like a cast iron frying pan. I also loosened the bolt ever so slightly. So far it's been working great, I clean the stove once a day, scrape the plate twice a day. Works like new!
When trying to find a solution to a problem, NEVER EVER change two things at once if you ever want to know what fixed the problem! Now was it the canola oil (highly doubt) or loosening the bolt (99% sure)????

In any event, I'm glad you got the problem solved. Now check to make sure that the trap door is not hanging down with a gap of more than the thickness of a dime. Any more and you short circuit those 8 little holes too much.
 
When trying to find a solution to a problem, NEVER EVER change two things at once if you ever want to know what fixed the problem! Now was it the canola oil (highly doubt) or loosening the bolt (99% sure)????

In any event, I'm glad you got the problem solved. Now check to make sure that the trap door is not hanging down with a gap of more than the thickness of a dime. Any more and you short circuit those 8 little holes too much.

Thanks tj I'll have to check that gap tomorrow when it's cool. but a question, the bolt was loosened slightly, I can't detect any change in the flame pattern. Is there a danger with damage to the stove by doing so?
 
WD40 might loosen it temporarily but it's not a long term solution. WD40 is fish oil, which will burn off. Better to use a anti-seize product like Never-Seize. Better yet is to adjust the gap as stated above to allow for some missed buildup.
I believe the anti-seize will burn off too, I only used the wd40 once or twice and haven't had a problem in two years.
 
Just curious where the reference that the gap should be no more than the thickness of a dime? I keep mine much tighter, so that its almost dragging when clean.
 
I believe the anti-seize will burn off too, I only used the wd40 once or twice and haven't had a problem in two years.
The oil carrier for the anti-sieze will, of course, burn off but the copper, graphite, or moly (depends on which you use) will remain behind. Glad the WD 40 seems to have worked for you.
 
Just curious where the reference that the gap should be no more than the thickness of a dime? I keep mine much tighter, so that its almost dragging when clean.
The thickness of a dime has been quoted here for several years. While the origin is unknown to me, I believe it came from a tech or factory rep. Yes, the tighter the better but the caution is to not have MORE than that. Also over time the nut may loosen and cause the plate to droop, which can be a cause for poor burning, non-ejection of the ash from the burn pot by the vortex of air, and poor heat output so it is always something to have the guy with the problem check.
 
The thickness of a dime has been quoted here for several years. While the origin is unknown to me, I believe it came from a tech or factory rep. Yes, the tighter the better but the caution is to not have MORE than that. Also over time the nut may loosen and cause the plate to droop, which can be a cause for poor burning, non-ejection of the ash from the burn pot by the vortex of air, and poor heat output so it is always something to have the guy with the problem check.

Yeah. It was a Tech that actually worked for Quad. His Forum name was Kal? Kap? Something like that?

He hangs at iburncorn more than here (or Iburntcorn, lol) ;lol
 
The dime reference is to the "sag", or lack of, here. I've replaced my hardware with stainless and an all metal locknut, and hand filed my plate and spacer to fit very true. I had the nut loosen a little this winter and it burned noticeably inefficient. It can get a little jammed up at times, but I like the burn with the better fit. If I just loosen the lock a tick, it opens very smoothly. I also like it snug to keep my young'en from being tempted to pull on it while burning. It hasn't happened but I like to rule things out.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1364343339.374791.jpg
 
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Yeah. It was a Tech that actually worked for Quad. His Forum name was Kal? Kap? Something like that?

He hangs at iburncorn more than here (or Iburntcorn, lol) ;lol
Yep, you're right. It's Kap over at iburncorn.com. The Quad section is very informative.
 
The factory seems to tighten the "hinge bolt" very tight from factory I would remove the plate and sand or scrape flat like new again, re-install and tighten it with a dime pinched in the opposite side of the plate across from the hinge you don't want it too loose, but you also don't want it so tight that it aggravates you every day
 
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