Question for you about an install

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gambler13

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Jul 13, 2010
17
pa
Buying a modular home where they have a propane stove exhausting up through the ceiling and roof. What do I need to have done with the piping to replace the propane stove with a P43 pellet stove?
 
Hello Gambler13

To me the Best way and Only way is the Class A Selkirk Chimney Conversion for Pellet Venting.

Send me your E-mail in a PC - Private conversation for more info.

CHIM. CONV. KIT A (for 6" ID/8" OD Class A Chimney) 4DT-CCKA 1604631
CHIM. CONV. KIT B (for 6" ID/10" OD Class A Chimney) 4DT-CCKB 1604635
 

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if you have a class A chimney, you can connect to it, but there's a good chance you have B-vent (gas) pipe...which you cannot connect to. IS the stove on an inside wall forcing you to go up the original assmebly for convenience sake? If not, the pellet stove is direct ventable out through an exterior wall. Could you give us all more details about what you have?
 
Gambler, Delta t is correct, hopefully you know what type of gas venting it is. Doesn't matter, it'll be removed and replaced with pellet vent pipe either DT as Don was suggesting above or suitable pellet venting. Is the gas stove's pipe about 7 inches in diameter or more like 4.5 inches?? If its 7 inch its prob direct vent Simpson duravent coaxial gas piping (a 4 inch inside of a 6-5/8 in outer pipe.) The selkirk DT pipe is about the same size, might be a nice fit going thru the roof. If the gas stove has B vent piping (5" roughly) then pellet vent 4 inch piping might be the best retrofit. Let us know, good luck with it.
 
Unfortunately I don't know the specifics yet as we are buying this place in June. Was only through it enough to check the layout. It is on an inside wall and goes straight up through the ceiling and roof. Didn't even pay enough attention to see what size pipe it is. Figure they'll have to take it out and run all new pipe to install a pellet stove then.
 
or leave it alone and go out the outside wall.....easier to do the air intake thing then!
 
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and a good bit less expensive too
 
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and a good bit less expensive too

once again, I find myself in the situation of admiring the brilliance of your posts, Delta......I forgot the add about the frugality of the thru the wall install....and while we are on the subject, lets not forget about the aesthetic appeal as well......
 
flattery will get you everywhere;) ...less expensive, better looking, more conducive to OAK....is like the trifecta of the installation challenge. I suiting answer for a member with the handle "gambler13".
 
Guess I'll have to see what other placement options I'll have for the pellet stove. Didn't think about the difficulty about running the OAK.
 
Guess I'll have to see what other placement options I'll have for the pellet stove. Didn't think about the difficulty about running the OAK.

OAK is required for mobile homes ... has to figure in the equation of piping and/or placement. Current placement on the inside wall does not seem like it would be helpful with air circulation throughout the whole trailer - just to one end. Placing on an outside wall that would allow air movement to both ends seems like a better option. What size is the trailer (double wide would likely change last statement)?

Modular home would be different than mobile (two halves combined right?) Lay out has to factor in. What kind of space under - basement or other?
 
i think, at least round my parts, if you have a steel sub frame you have to follow the "mobile home" guidelines, but if its a true modular (built in a factory, hoisted into place and attached to a foundation without steel sub frame) you are not required to follow the mobile home guideleines. I bet there's some insurance company broo-haha to deal with in that regard as well. I even know a few "inspector" types who say "well, it ain't goin anywhere, so it ain't mobile to me" regarding double wides.
 
i think, at least round my parts, if you have a steel sub frame you have to follow the "mobile home" guidelines, but if its a true modular (built in a factory, hoisted into place and attached to a foundation without steel sub frame) you are not required to follow the mobile home guideleines. I bet there's some insurance company broo-haha to deal with in that regard as well. I even know a few "inspector" types who say "well, it ain't goin anywhere, so it ain't mobile to me" regarding double wides.

Easier to OAK per mobile home specs so there's no argument...;lol I'm sure there will be something else with the insurance company.
 
agreed....you don't see a lot of people getting flagged for going above and beyond the minimum requirements....except in the work place ;lol
 
In my opinion I'd do whatever conversion you need to in order to go straight up through the roof. Sure, it'll be more costly and slightly more of a pain in the ass, but you'll never have to worry about smoke venting out of your stove should you lose power. I think that the natural venting you'll always have with the vertical set-up is worth the hassle.
 
i think, at least round my parts, if you have a steel sub frame you have to follow the "mobile home" guidelines, but if its a true modular (built in a factory, hoisted into place and attached to a foundation without steel sub frame) you are not required to follow the mobile home guideleines. I bet there's some insurance company broo-haha to deal with in that regard as well. I even know a few "inspector" types who say "well, it ain't goin anywhere, so it ain't mobile to me" regarding double wides.


Yep.. Round here it's the same way. If its an actual modular, and its on a permanent foundation (read:Basement) then it's no longer mobile, nor will it ever be.

But may be different elsewhere.
 
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