looking for ideas

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rich m jr

Member
Feb 26, 2013
14
kennewick wa
remodeling living room. house was built in early 80s. fireplace needs replaced fire box is small and cracked etc. should i just demo the fireplace and put in a stove in the corner? any other ideas?
 
That's what I did. It was dusty work, but no regrets.
 
I had a builder's box fireplace in the corner of the great room. Pulled FP and enclosure wall out. Put tile and stove in. Sold builder's box for $150. Does yours look like this?

prefabFP1.jpg
 
If you want to go for serious wood heating, I would.
Take your time to decide what you want to achieve, and what your priorities are, and cost constraints, then get the ebst deal you can during the off season for a good set up. There are many considerations: climate, home size, insulation, fenestration, (heat loss in general), wind exposure, internal/external chimney. fulltime primary heat, full time supplementary heat, wekkend or occasional burning , appearance of stove, , quality and ease of use, etc. If you do decide to put in a stove, post details of your situation and you'll get good recommendations/assistance here from stove to pie an dhearth requirements.

Good luck, and enjoy the process.
 
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If it were me......I'd rebuild the fireplace, increase it's size if possible, then add a stove/insert......I'd keep the fireplace just for resale value.....some buyers are not into wood heat, but love to have a fire going in the fireplace from time to time for atmosphere
 
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Definitely think about what you want out of this. Do you hope to heat with wood, or just have a functioning fireplace that looks nice? How big is the house? How much time and effort are you willing to give to this? Burning wood for heat makes the most sense if you enjoy all the work that goes with it. It's perfectly fine if that's not your thing, but its a question that will have a big effect on what you should do here.
 
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You're moving along well. I'd pull FP and chimney and make an alcove stove install with Class A chimney. Materials won't be too expensive and if you can do the labor yourself - sweet. I bet in Kennewick, WA, you'd like lotsa wood heat.
 
The codes will be in the manual for the stove you buy. Biggest one is CTC (Clearance To Combustibles). Combustibles include wood framing and sheetrock. You have: hearth R-value, stove CTC, black (connector) pipe CTC, Class A chimney CTC (normally always 2"). Download the manual for the stove (eg: Spectrum here: http://www.pacificenergy.net/pacificenergy/pdfs/SUPER-SD1-250112-20.pdf ). Read CTC requirements.
 
Install the stove using double-wall connector pipe. Bring the shield 6" above the height of the stove flue collar.

You can use any non-combustible material for shims. They sell ceramic shims for this purpose. But a simpler way is to cut 3" x 3' long strips of the 1/2' Durock and double them up to create your 1" shims. Attach the double shims to each stud, then attach the Durock cement board on top of the shims leaving a 1" air gap at the top and bottom so that there is good ventilation behind the wall shield. Tile with a latex modified thinset on the Durock base.
 
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i was told at the store where i'm looking to purchase my stove that you can't use the cement board to gain closer spacing in wa state anymore. called the inspecter whating on a return call any idea where to get the info?
 
well looks like going with a zero clearance fireplace due to wa. state laws and alcove size anyone know which are better etc?

You'll likely get quicker response if you start a new post with a heading along the line: Need a zero clearance fireplace, which are the best options?:)
 
Have you checked clearance to combustibles on stoves? There are some with 12 inch side clearance.

Recently checked Hearthstones for someone. I know that the Mansfield, 10 hour burns, 14 hours usable heat, will heat 2500 sq feet, requires ember protection only hearth has 18 inch side clearances, 8 inch rear clearances, 14 inch corner clearances, requires a 50 inch deep pad.

Heritage, heats 1900 square feet, 8 hour burn, 12 hour usable heat, requires 16 inch clearance to combstibel on the L, 15 on right, 7 inch rear and 11 inch corner , ember protection only pad, and pad only needs to be 37 1/2 inch deep. Maybe one of these stoves would work for you?
 
i was told at the store where i'm looking to purchase my stove that you can't use the cement board to gain closer spacing in wa state anymore. called the inspecter whating on a return call any idea where to get the info?


Ask them to provide you with documentation of this. I thought it depends on the stove. If the stove mfg. lists tested, reduced clearances in their documentation based on NFPA wall shielding, then that is the defining document. Last I knew WA state honored NFPA 211 heat shields. That is not just cement board, but a ventilated, non-combustible wall shield instead.
 
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