036 running like crap

[Flatbedford]

My 036 is having some issues. I'm having a heck of a time starting it. Once it is running sometimes the idle is too fast, sometimes it won't stay running. Once it is running however it runs great and cuts like SOB. I'm thinking carb rebuild, new fuel line, fuel filter, and air fiter too. Any suggestions before I start buying parts?

 

[hemlock]

Sounds like you might have an intake air leak some place (leaned out). Does it seem to cut faster than before, or sound a bit different?

 

[Flatbedford]

Once it gets started it seems to run normally. Its just real hard to cold start and the idle is not consistent. It seems to flood very easily on a cold start.

 

[HittinSteel]

I'd carb kit it (sounds like the pump diaphram might be bad), new line and fuel filter. Skip the air filter for now unless it is really beat.

 

[Flatbedford]

I have the shop manual. Carb rebuild doesn't look that tough. The manual has nice big pictures.

 

[HittinSteel]

yeah it is not bad, just pay careful attention to the order of the diaphrams and gaskets....... oh and don't lose the needle spring!

 

[NH_Wood]

I'd start with fuel filter as the cheapest/easiest fix, and if no luck, I'd replace the fuel line and rebuild the carb together - for an older saw, worth doing while you are replacing the line. Pay close attention to the jets for blocks and to the small screen filter for clogging as well when you rebuild the carb. Might want to check the intake boot for cracks while you are in there - Cheers!

 

[charly]

Try a new plug first... I also read on a flying group,,, 2 stroke carbs become rich overtime as the needle spring gets weak, the pop off pressure drops off and allows more fuel in.. Sometimes it's cheaper just to buy a new carb.. People fail to pull the welch plugs out of the carbs and there are some screens behind them as well that get plugged..

 

[MasterMech]

I'd be leak testing that crankcase to make sure the crankseals, impulse line, gaskets and intake boot are all good. Then since you pulled the carb off to do that anyways (this assumes you haven't found the problem yet) I'd replace the gaskets/diaphragms as they do fatigue over time. Quick pressure test on the fuel line and a visual inspection as well.

Since the saw runs well at wide open throttle I'm going to say the ignition, filter, line and carb are probably good and your problem is most likely an air leak, either the impulse line or more likely the crankshaft oil seals.

 

[Flatbedford]

Where is the impulse line. I don't remember seeing that in the shop manual.

 

[MasterMech]

Where is the impulse line. I don't remember seeing that in the shop manual.

Looking at the IPL for that saw, it looks to be built into the intake boot. Which could mean the leak is either in the boot itself, the crankshaft seals, or a gasket.

 

[Flatbedford]

I ran the saw for a few hours the other day. It runs perfectly, just doesn't always start easily. I think the problem is the master control switch. It isn't landing right at the full, half or no choke spots. I have tried to adjust the spring, but I think it is time to replace it. The saw just runs far too well ta have any fuel or air problems. I wanted to replace a few years ago, but mt dealer talked me into "adjusting" it rather than replacing it. I think that I have just, plain bent it way too much in too many ways.

 

[MasterMech]

I ran the saw for a few hours the other day. It runs perfectly, just doesn't always start easily. I think the problem is the master control switch. It isn't landing right at the full, half or no choke spots. I have tried to adjust the spring, but I think it is time to replace it. The saw just runs far too well ta have any fuel or air problems. I wanted to replace a few years ago, but mt dealer talked me into "adjusting" it rather than replacing it. I think that I have just, plain bent it way too much in too many ways.

If you are talking about the metal contact strip rather than the plastic lever assembly, then yes, replacing it is the way to go. They aren't real expensive and you could spend a good deal of time fiddle fartin' around with the damn thing before you're happy with it.

Operate the lever with the cover and the filter removed. Then observe the choke position. That will tell you if the problem is with the linkage detents or elsewhere.

 

[StihlHead]

I would suspect a loose carb, a pinched or cracked fuel line, or the impulse line myself. Any of those will mess with the fuel pump in the carb and cause hard starting and/or running. I have had many flakey ignitions and control levers on Stihls, and while they can cause problems, those problems are usually more consistent and cause more problems when running flat out and when killing the saw. All the metal contact does on the control lever is ground the coil when the lever is all the way up. All Stihl saws flood really easy. One pull too many and they will flood (usually on the 4th or 5th pull). If you miss the rumble or pop, you will flood it on the next pull with the choke set.

 

[Flatbedford]

I have "fiddle farted" so much with that metal spring that it just doesn't hit the stops solidly anymore. I sometimes get 1/2 choke when I think it is on run, or I knock it to off when I am cutting.

 

[MasterMech]

I have "fiddle farted" so much with that metal spring that it just doesn't hit the stops solidly anymore. I sometimes get 1/2 choke when I think it is on run, or I knock it to off when I am cutting.

Time to toss it for sure.

 

[DexterDay]

I just bought a new metal kill switch/master stop at my dealer. Even there it was under $5 and had it in 2 days.

Buy a new one. I messed with mine until I snapped it.

Also, fuel line and impulse line are very cheap...

 

[Flatbedford]

Yup. I'll take a ride to my local dealer soon.