FINALY cut some wood............. "LIKE BUTTAH" !

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I have three chains that I rotate when needed then pay the 7 bucks each at the local shop. I bought the kit raybonz posted a while back and watched the videos and understand the process, but no one mentions how you know which size to use for what chain. Help me out here. I've got a Dremel and certainly not opposed to an attachment to do the job. Looked at the timberline doohickey online but seems pricey for what it is.
 
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I have three chains that I rotate when needed then pay the 7 bucks each at the local shop. I bought the kit raybonz posted a while back and watched the videos and understand the process, but no one mentions how you know which size to use for what chain. Help me out here. I've got a Dremel and certainly not opposed to an attachment to do the job. Looked at the timberline doohickey online but seems pricey for what it is.

File sizes

Large 7/32″ - 3/8″ pitch chain as well as .404″ pitch chain
Large 13/64″ – also for 3/8″ pitch, but slightly smaller. Recommended on 3/8″ Stihl chain.
Medium 3/16″ – .325″ pitch chain
Small 5/32″ – 3/8″ small Low Profile chain, Picco, and 1/4″ pitch
 
Get in the habit of filing your chain every tank of gas. Saves time and money in the long run.

I hear a lot of guys saying this, and sometimes wonder if I should try it. However, my chains usually seem to go from sharp to not sharp in an instant (likely hit something I didn't see in the log), and then I just swap it out for another chain. I travel with at least three in each size, and sometimes as many as six spares for my 20", so swapping them out is never a problem.

I've been told that if you use a grinder to sharpen, then you're best not trying to touch up with a file. Some business about the grinder leaving a profile not suitable for hand re-sharpening.
 
File sizes

Large 7/32″ - 3/8″ pitch chain as well as .404″ pitch chain
Large 13/64″ – also for 3/8″ pitch, but slightly smaller. Recommended on 3/8″ Stihl chain.
Medium 3/16″ – .325″ pitch chain
Small 5/32″ – 3/8″ small Low Profile chain, Picco, and 1/4″ pitch
Thanks.
 
Stihl in the same chain? Never sharpened? You are either lucky? Or.... Gotta be luck. I go through 2 a day when cutting a lot. The second the Chios get small, I swap and sharpen later.

Looking forward to more pics


I'll sharpen it before I go out again, or I'll just swap it till they both need it and sharpen both at once.

Gonna be rainy this weekend but you know I'll be cutting and splittin and postin picts !!!
 
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Also note that not all files are equal. Cheap files don't last as long.

The same goes for chain. Stihl chain is generally harder (more chrome plating) than Oregon/Husqvarna chain. Harder files will last longer when sharpening Stihl chain.
 
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Don't forget to keep an eye on the chain while working, and take up the slack when needed, especially with a new one
 
I've been told that if you use a grinder to sharpen, then you're best not trying to touch up with a file. Some business about the grinder leaving a profile not suitable for hand re-sharpening.​

The file will leave a "hollow grind" or slightly convex cutting edge whereas a grinder leaves a flat bevel on the top plate of the cutter. Switching back and forth between grinder and file will eat a bit more metal for each sharpening. Especially going from grinder to file since the hollow profile will have to be re-established before the actual cutting edge is cut. Some heavy-handed grinder operators can heat the cutters up enough to harden the metal and that also will make it difficult to hand-file.

With regards to sharpening after each tank of gas; It depends on the saw. I can run 2-3 tanks quite easily before I notice the chain slowing down. Hell, with the 460's, I'd spend more time pouring gas and filing than actually cutting. ;)
 
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I really can't thank you guys (and gals) enough!
None of you knows me from Adam and you ALL are always looking out for my best interest! I know you all do it for everyone on here but MAN it's a great feeling knowing that I can post a question on here and get a REAL WORLD answer in a matter of minutes!!

Got a good Ash scrounge yesterday and I have an OAK one today so this weekend.... VROOOM VROOM !!!!!
 
All 3 file sizes are included with this kit.. You can place the files into the ground area to see what fits as well.. Once you know the size E-bay has some great deals on quality files for a decent price.. The files are Chinese in the kit but work very well..

Ray
 
Don't listen too them Donnie. Stick your fingers in your ears and sing lalalalalalalala. It is the only known method to ward off CAD.;lol



Hmmmm.....Tried that & didnt work for me.All I heard was that mean growl/cackle of that SP125C idling......;lol
 
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I ended up hauling away 26 large rounds and a LOT of 8" limbs!
This was after the first load, then I got the second............... then I MOWED My grass!! :p

I have a load of walnut to pick up tomorrow, then I need to get CSS-ing !!!!!!!!!!! :eek:

Looks like your helper is takin a little break , or guarding the wood pile :cool: ::-)
 
Yea... she is as mean as a snake!!! Thinks she needs to guard EVERYTHING!
Comes in handy with my wife and two daughters but she needs to lighten up :p
Good thing she listens without question!
 
That also doesn't look like any ash I've seen unless the giant center splotch is going punky. More like maple. Then again, I've never cut ash anywhere but MA.
 
That's not ash. Hard to tell from that photo... but maybe oak?

Pallets and spare tire... you're all set! I see you've been watching this channel.
 
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Have fun splitting that pin oak! Stuff splits hard, especially those knotty rounds. Good thing you got big arms, you'll be needing that to bust up them things. I had a pin oak about 40" last year that was the reason got a splitter.
 
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That's not ash. Hard to tell from that photo... but maybe oak?

Pallets and spare tire... you're all set! I see you've been watching this channel.


Yep, you are right... the stuff on the ground (rounds) is oak. the longer stuff on the left is ash :)

I'll let you know if I am able to split it with the fiskars! So far Hackberry has been the toughest when the rounds are huge. Just wet and stringy!

I need to get my form down, so my splits are more uniform.
 
I split by hand (sledge and maul) all thru my teenage years. When I got back into burning two years ago, I started splitting with a maul. I kept it up for 2 years, splitting probably 15 cords, and got much faster and more efficient during that time. Successfully splitting by hand is as much about form as muscle. If results are disappointing at first, keep at it, and you'll get much better / faster working thru your first cord or three.

That said, knotty rounds... just noodle 'em. Strait stuff over 18" diameter can be handled a few ways:

1. Slab it with the Fiskars. Don't bother trying to split it in half... it ain't gonna happen. You can pick away at it from the outside-in, though.
2. Sledge and Wedge. Still the most effective way to tackle big stuff, IMO.
3. Say, "to hell with it," and just noodle it. By far the most fun way of tackling the real big stuff.

I just bought a splitter two weeks ago, and have only put two cords thru it so far (been busy with other stuff), but I'm still noodling the real big stuff before I move it to the splitter. No need to man-handle the 49" diameter oak I brought home last month.
 
Successfully splitting by hand is as much about form as muscle.

1. Slab it with the Fiskars. Don't bother trying to split it in half... it ain't gonna happen. You can pick away at it from the outside-in, though.

I TRY to use form over muscle but sometimes I still find myself trying to KILL IT !


I DO use the "slab-it" method, I just didn't know there was a name for it. :)
 
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