so how do I find a great stove in the off season when I CAN'T find one ever local

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Jack Fate

Feeling the Heat
Jan 17, 2013
425
Northwest Ohio
title says it all ,

except;

thought I wanted a cat stove ,now not so much,.if ever

I got a good chimney ,masonry, two barrels ,2 stoves,SOLID

SO GUESS want something that drafts well

& IS SIMPLE

I have a Fisher Grandpa & VC resulte problem

8 yrs with them

fisher eats wood like the government eats tax money

VC Is maintenance is $$$$$$$$$$ & sucks life out of your time

sorry venting <>
 
No, but good luck...
 
There are lots of options. Tell us more about the space you are heating and more about the flue (height, liner or if not the tile dimension).
 
Online, I got my Englander 30 from HD online for $650 delivered here last year from VA. Non-CAT WA/EPA III approved, HUD approved, burns good, draft is fine with an OAK.
 
Replacing VC Resulte Want about 2 cuft stove needs to fit the old space , 8"x14 od tile, block & brick , located in center of 2 story home . 15 ' thimble to top with 9' below to clean out in crawl

Stoves both on first floor

Chimney in good shape , solid & no cracked tile

Not interested in breaking out good tile / or any liner



Chimney has drafted well for many years ( not broke don't fix it )


NC 30 great value stove but too large , may be good Fisher replacement

The VC heats house 95% of the time

Use the big fisher about 2 wks a year

Nearest HD is 100+ miles away ( that carry wood stoves)

Most all other stove shops have only very $$$$$$ stoves in the size I need

Then there is the WAF ; (
 
The flue system is marginal. It may work ok with older stoves, but most modern stoves require stronger draft. A liner would help.

WAF is going to cost ya. Show the wife a Woodstock Fireview and the Pacific Energy Alderlea T5 and let us know what she thinks.
 
WAF no to soapstone , me not gonna spend $ 6-12 K

Just trying to keep it simple .

One question though can an OAK be vented into a crawl space ?
 
Where does the 6-12K come from? A liner would be under 1K. No harm in trying the stove without the liner first as long as the chimney is safe. I am just passing along what is maybe the number 2 or 3 complaint with new stoves, poorly seasoned wood being the number one.

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/pacaldert5.htm

PS: I feel for you ;lol , your wife and mine have something in common.
 
Tile liner needs removed $$$ or rectangular liner $$$

Not fond of the idea of bustin up good chimney

Wife wants pro to do @ 4k estimate + stove

I'm a DIY guy

Don't like outsiders doing work for me , bad things & lawsuits

Happen Always end up fixing their work

And yes you don't need to sell the seasoned wood thing I already believe
 
Maybe you can slip a 6" liner up there without busting tile? No room for insulation, but the chimney is interior. If not, Homesaver rectangle flex? You can DIY for 2-4K depending on how good a stove you want.
 
Back in January you were getting smoke back from the VC. And at that time you said it didn't look like putting in a liner should be all that difficult.
 
Back in January you were getting smoke back from the VC. And at that time you said it didn't look like putting in a liner should be all that difficult.

Correct , then found codes called for insulation , then tile needed removed

Also after thinking about losing the heating effect of my brick chimney in the upstairs , well ?

Got A catch 22


I got 2 different stories from 2 different pros on codes

And after reaserch found each had complaints against them

Don't want a money pit happening

I resealed my flue pipe & back puffing improved

Also used old oak , although ash I had checked ok , but larger splits probably not
 
As for building codes: call or go to your county building department and find out from the engineers. Tell them you are designing a new house. Contractors may or may not have the latest and correct info. I got all the info I needed here for my remodel from the county that way. Did all the work myself.

A cheap solution for you?: Try the Englander 13 NC. Nearly identical to the VC Resolute size. Smaller stove than the 30, same front/door size, not as deep, 1.8 cu. ft. box.

VC Resolute Acclaim: Dimensions 25.5”W x 27.5”H x 25”D
NC 13 Dimensions 25.0”W x 28.25”H x 25.25”D

Go with HD online. They ship stoves, and last year I got free shipping here for my NC 30 from VA (3,000 miles away). This year home shipping is $99 for stoves, or free delivery to any local HD stores. NC 13 is $650 at most HD's online (you can select to purchase from any HD store online).

OAKs are commonly vented from ventilated crawl spaces through the floor. Mine is. The keyword is ventilated crawl space. I find that it helps keep the crawlspace air drier, as the convection air flow works like a crawlspace fan system. It is also good to ventilate crawl spaces in this area which has high radon levels.
 
OAKs are commonly vented from ventilated crawl spaces through the floor. Mine is. The keyword is ventilated crawl space. I find that it helps keep the crawlspace air drier, as the convection air flow works like a crawlspace fan system. It is also good to ventilate crawl spaces in this area which has high radon levels.

I also pull OAK air from the ventilated crawlspace. Works great all year to keep air moving through the crawl. I also believe that there is a supercharging effect since your OAK from below the stove contributes to the draw of the chimney.

You don't have to insulate the liner IF your chimney is still in good shape. Only in the cases of a failed chimney must you insulate the liner since the insulation is taking the place of the compromised insulation offered by the chimney. Can't you just add height to the masonry chimey with more masonry? I'm a big fan of ripping down masonry chimneys in favor of far superior steel chimneys anyway but to save some cash....
 
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http://ashtabula.craigslist.org/app/3849564736.html
http://cleveland.craigslist.org/app/3855140210.html

Here are a couple. Don't know where in NEO you are? There was a Eng 30-NC for under $700 at the Ashland HD? A used PE Super 27 on CL a few months ago for a good price. They are out there, you just have to be diligent and check several times a day. When a good deals comes along, you have to jump! When sold, they get taken down. So if you only check on weekends, or every other day, you may be missing a lot.

I have an app that alerts me to certain keywords, wood stove is one of them. I am always looking for a deal ;) I will keep my eye out and PM you any good ones. But what area are you from (just need the CL to search?) I normally search Cleveland, Akron, Mansfield, and Youngstown.
 
Correct , then found codes called for insulation , then tile needed removed

Also after thinking about losing the heating effect of my brick chimney in the upstairs , well ?

Got A catch 22


I got 2 different stories from 2 different pros on codes

And after reaserch found each had complaints against them

Don't want a money pit happening

I resealed my flue pipe & back puffing improved

Also used old oak , although ash I had checked ok , but larger splits probably not

I'm not saying I know it won't work, it's worth at try to connect to the existing chimney and see how the new stove performs. My opinion is tha at about 80 sq in. I think the draft will be poor because that is almost 3 times the mfg spec.. I think this is what the Resolute is telling you. If performance is sub-par, a liner with maybe a 2 ft extension can make a big difference. Your estimates are too high unless there are serious confounding factors. What is the ID of the current clay tile liner? Sounds like it would be around 6.5 x 12.5" If so, drop a 6" liner down it for $500 and see how that works. If the clay tile is in primo condition I would skip the insulation at first and pour vermiculite later if desired.
 
With a two-story, sounds like he has like 20' of stack. Me, I would slap a liner in there and be done with it, regardless. Guaranteed great draft no matter the stove, never any smoke roll-out, safer setup, easier to clean, etc. And it shouldn't be too hard for a DIY guy.
Be sure to post plenty of pics as you go. ==c
 
Thanks all ,

One question if I put in a flex liner my chimney is 15' thimble to top . Do I need more height ? If so can a solid Extention be added to the flex?

Thanks again

About the time I get this figured out the WAF will kick in ; (
 
You can try it and see how it works. The two, 90 deg turns in the smoke path are what's hurting your height. Hard to avoid these turns with this setup. Perhaps the stove connection could be done with two 45 deg elbows with a short connector instead to soften the angle? If you want to add an extension, there are kits to do this. Here's an example:

http://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/pic.php?pic=flue-extender-lg.jpg&cap=Chimney_Flue_Extender
You can try it and see how it works. The two, 90 deg turns in the smoke path are what's hurting your height. Hard to avoid these turns with this setup. Perhaps the stove connection could be done with two 45 deg elbows with a short connector instead to soften the angle? If you want to add an extension, there are kits to do this. Here's an example:

http://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/pic.php?pic=flue-extender-lg.jpg&cap=Chimney_Flue_Extender


Yes 2/45's Are in the plan , are all double wall pretty much the same or are some better? Anyone chime in on menards dbl . Wall ? It's made in Canada . I have easy access to menards

Maybe a small Extention pipe on top
5' hangin out of chimney would look rather odd
 
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