Class A cap replacement

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Unless the screen is plugged, the cap is not a likely culprit. Describe the flue on the stove.
 
Well, we've been there BG.
14' total from top of stove. I put a damper in and use it mostly on overnight fires. Does placement in the pipe affect draft with a damper? This one is right above the collar.
That's probably the culprit. Someone mentioned that a certain percentage of the pipe is plugged when those are installed, and with marginal draft, it becomes a problem.
ETA: no screen.
 
I read so many threads that I often forget who has what setup. It sounds like you'll see better overall results by adding a couple feet of pipe than by switching out the cap. This will be particularly important if the Ashley is being replaced with an EPA stove this season.
 
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That's what I thought you'd say.>>
I added a 1' section last year and it helped some (Dennis told me it wasn't enough) and put me just under 5' out the roof.
I didn't want to do the support deal, but maybe I'll have to. This will be the same flue setup used on the new stove, and if it isn't working well now, I'm pretty sure I'll have issues then.
 
A roof brace is no big deal. We have one at 5ft.
 
You don't have any issues with the bolt penetration?
I could put the brace on the new-ish portion of the roof (which was built over the old....long story) to somewhat keep my mind at ease.
 
No issues with bolt penetration. They are bedded in roofing cement.
 
Yep, that's what I would do.
 
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Sorry if posted in a prior thread, but why a damper with only 14' of pipe?
 
Hey Hog. This old Ashley doesn't like to run under 700 unless I kill the air almost 100%. It''ll peg the therm. if left unchecked. The damper helps that some for overnight burns.
I've adjusted the air plate so it all but covers the air inlet under the stove and also put pieces of flat gasket between the plate and stove to control air.
All that has helped quite a bit, but if I don't get the stove under control early in the burn, it likes to get "happy".
I've thought of adjusting the plate to completely cover the hole, then drilling a small hole (maybe start with a 1/16th") in the plate, like a throttle plate has. I could always jb weld the hole shut.
It doesn't take much air for this stove to burn once up to temp.
However, when I open the door (after opening the air), out comes some smoke. It's crazy. Possessed.
 
Time to upgrade brother.
 
That's what I thought you'd say.>>
I added a 1' section last year and it helped some (Dennis told me it wasn't enough) and put me just under 5' out the roof.
I didn't want to do the support deal, but maybe I'll have to. This will be the same flue setup used on the new stove, and if it isn't working well now, I'm pretty sure I'll have issues then.

Dang. I got caught again.... Time to suck it up Dave and get that stove this year. I know it is tough but sometimes you just have to do whatever. I well remember when we put our old Ashley in. I wanted a Woodstock stove then but just didn't have the dollars. So we froze for umpteen years. Then we even looked at other stoves before finally settling on the Woodstock. Knowing what I know now, I really should have somehow come up with the dollars way back then and not fought with the Ashley.
 
I've been kicking myself all these years anyway.
What's one more?:p
kick-me.jpg
 
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If the price is right it looks like it's in decent inside condition. How is the outside? Englander owners can help you locate some ceramic board of the right spec on eBay. If the pipe is not Selkirk it probably won't be compatible, but it can be sold if not.
 
It's just the stovepipe.
The top on the lower step looks like it's had a bit of a boilover. Not sure.
I'm waiting for another pic on that.
He had it listed about 3 weeks ago for 650, but within the last couple days dropped it to 600.
 
Aren't they going for new at the price up somewhere near you?
 
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