HHT upgrade using Selkirk DT!

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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Feb 1, 2010
9,117
Salem NH
Hello

I did not plan on this but now that the Sante Fe ran away, I have no choice to put a newly aquired Harman P61a in it's place!

The problem is the Selkirk DT that was installed to an 18" high Quadrafire Santa Fe stove exhaust flange!

The Harman P61a has a 9" high stove exhaust flange and the fresh air is on the left side looking at the stove front! The DT has the fresh air coming off the right side used for the Santa Fe. :-(

Fortunately, instead of installing a 3' Selkirk DT straight pipe, I installed a 2' and a 1' section. Good idea because know one ever knows if they will change the stove!

Therefore, by removing the 1' section installed below the 2' section, the 1' DT adjustable pipe could be added and then the 1' section can be slid in so the stove pipe is 9" from the floor! I did have to pull the fresh air adapter off and turn it 180 Deg so the fresh air would be on the left side!

Then I had to put the 4" diameter support bracket above the stove adapter instead of below it. Then use a 1.5" 10-24 bolt instead of the 1" bolt that came with the support bracket.

So final cost was $1.18 for the longer bolt and $35.51 for a total of $36.69 not too bad so far!
I painted the 1' adjustable Stove Bright Satin black after some flat black VHT Flame Proof high heat header paint as a primer.

See pics below, click to enlarge. I have to finish going over the Harmy but it should work out fine.

Will this venting setup work?
 

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Hello

So did it plug right in? No Way Jose!

I had to cut off the self tapper inside the exhaust tube. I did not realize it was there because the head was already broken off!
Then I had to grind it down and wire brush and grind all the rust out before the Selkirk Stove adapter would slip in! I had to push it in more!

Then 2 more car exhaust adapters that would slide in after ripping out the blank in the back panel. This stove never had an OAK before! That is an odd size OAK pipe, looks like 2-3/4" ! ! ! LOL

See stove pic. I got the stove cheap. Then I had to get a new frame to replace the broken one and paint it chrome. Also got a new swell hopper latch, the old one was missing. The bearing was bad in the room blower so I had to pop a new convection blower in. The ignitor was shot so I threw a new ignitor in! The flame guide was missing so a new one was also thrown in!

I have a new black door on order and it will be in this Tuesday. Then I will get a tile from home depot. So it works, I just have to make it look a little better, but not bad for a little workshop heater for next season!

For now a dirty ole Harman P61a may be better than a nice new looking Quadrafire Santa Fe?
 

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Hello,
You need more "Dry Molly";)
Yes I do! LOL

I have to remove and clean or replace the exhaust impeller! That is where the dry moly comes in!
 
;lol

Good luck Don!


Thanks Dexter, Harman Impellers are different because they are not completely enclosed in an exhaust plenum. Therefore there is no intensive heat to weld it on. So far there has not been an impeller on a Harman that I could not remove!
 
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Thanks Dexter, Harman Impellers are different because they are not completely enclosed in an exhaust plenum. Therefore there is no intensive heat to weld it on. So far there has not been an impeller on a Harman that I could not remove!
Hello,
You are the man!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Quad Classic bay isnt either?

And the temp would be hotter in a Harman (P series especially). Because the exhaust is right there and the 1st thing hit?

Where a lot of other stoves have a longer exhaust path and more time to cool the gases?

Maybe you have it backwards? Because they get so hot? There easy to remove??.
 
Maybe you have it backwards? Because they get so hot? There easy to remove??.

Maybe you are right, there is something about them being easier to remove. Also It seems that the exhaust blowers last longer too!

Maybe we need to do some more research here. I am currently in the process of getting replacement impellers for most stoves. Some stoves, I had to cut the motor shaft to get the mounting hub off the motor. So why is this the case and is there anyway we can save them? In one case, I used my air cutter to cut the impeller mounting collar so I could get the impeller off the shaft without damage to the motor. The motor was good but the impellers were shot!

The stove in this case with the good motor and rusted impellers, is a 25-PDVC
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...es-any-good-blade-source.111565/#post-1480007

Exhaust temps here according to Mike Holton can be as high as 550 Deg F There was no other way to get the impellers off, but by cutting them, I saved a really good exhaust blower motor!
 
More research is needed.

Maybe Harman users, use more Dry Moly?


I am sure no special treatment was done to the 3 old Harman P61s I picked up. It is just the Harman design constantly amazes me. I would have never guessed how rugged and how well they last from just a user's view and seeing the sales brochures. Now from servicing them and especially rebuilding them, I see these things. Here is another example. The Harman in this thread had the room blower go bad, (Loud Bearings) before the exhaust blower went bad. Usually it is the other way around. This means that both blowers IMO will last longer in this machine than in other pellet stoves! There is nothing special about the blowers either.
 
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