Sooteater

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I'm wondering if they had a liability issue with the old rods. There is one description of the unit flying out of a chimney and whipping around a room. If there were people or animals in the room, I can envision serious injuries in such a situation....Just a thought. Too bad, because sounds like the flexible rods solve a lot of problems for some.
 
I have the black rods and cleaned my Endeavor from the door. I had to make almost a 90° bend, and it worked. I wanted to see if it could be done without disconnecting any flue pipe and I was happy it worked so well.
 
Yes it does, I did lift it slightly, BUT
3: The baffle plate is difficult to remove and should only be removed if necessary. Remove the rear secondary air tube. Slide the baffle plate forward and rotate it downwards (the baffle plate fits very snug inside the firebox and is very heavy, making it difficult to remove). The baffle plate gasket rests on the side and rear air channels

I didn't want to pull it cuz as U see , there is a gasket under it, don't want to get a bunch of crude on the gasket
I'm sort of concerned about pulling that apart and then not being able to get it back together.
 
I'm sort of concerned about pulling that apart and then not being able to get it back together.
Start early so you have plenty of time before it gets cold. ;)
 
Cant be any worse than the job I have ahead of me putting a cemented in fireback back into a 15 year old Vermont Castings. Go for it!
 
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I'm sort of concerned about pulling that apart and then not being able to get it back together.
All U would be doing is taking out the baffle bricks, it is really very simple, just get them in the right position and slide em out but, don't try taking out the air tubes, the roll pins are not easy
 
All U would be doing is taking out the baffle bricks, it is really very simple, just get them in the right position and slide em out but, don't try taking out the air tubes, the roll pins are not easy
So I would be able to get access to the chimney to clean it by just removing the bricks? I don't have to take that baffle plate out (that's the part that sounded tricky).

Thanks.
 
So I would be able to get access to the chimney to clean it by just removing the bricks? I don't have to take that baffle plate out (that's the part that sounded tricky).

Thanks.
Ya U could fit a sooteater up through there but U don't want to take out that big baffle plate while using the soot eater , cuz U would destroy the gasket.
I did take that out today while cleaning ,plus the baffle supports .
Not only that , U must be very careful and lift up on the baffle plate while sliding it in or out , U could damage the gasket just by taking out, or putting the plate in.
I could see what I was doing cuz of no pipe on there
Pic , parts out, left pic, rear shot U see air tube top of pic, middle pic front shot U see gasket


IMG_20130820_184339.jpgIMG_20130820_184356.jpgIMG_20130820_184448.jpg
 
Ya U could fit a sooteater up through there but U don't want to take out that big baffle plate while using the soot eater , cuz U would destroy the gasket.
I did take that out today while cleaning ,plus the baffle supports .
Not only that , U must be very careful and lift up on the baffle plate while sliding it in or out , U could damage the gasket just by taking out, or putting the plate in.
I could see what I was doing cuz of no pipe on there
Pic , parts out


View attachment 109123View attachment 109124View attachment 109125
It's my good luck that you bought that 1750! :)

If I could get a flexible brush up there without ever taking the baffle out... I don't think I would ever take the baffle out! Actually, from the drawing I'm not even sure why there is a baffle there. It would seem like it could just be a fixed piece of steel.

Regardless, thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions and post those pictures. It's very nice of you and I do really appreciate it.
 
It's my good luck that you bought that 1750! :)

If I could get a flexible brush up there without ever taking the baffle out... I don't think I would ever take the baffle out! Actually, from the drawing I'm not even sure why there is a baffle there. It would seem like it could just be a fixed piece of steel.

Regardless, thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions and post those pictures. It's very nice of you and I do really appreciate it.
Glad to help. :)
The baffle plate is also a support for the back bricks, why the gasket is there ;? not sure yet
 
Glad to help. :)
The baffle plate is also a support for the back bricks, why the gasket is there ;? not sure yet
When you figure it out... let me know!

Also, I think you mentioned something about your stove needing legs in your other thread? I ended up buying the pedestal for mine, but it was already outfitted with the legs (it was a display model). If you happen to need legs for your stove, I'd be very happy to send them to you (for free, of course). I live in Grand Rapids... even snail mail would get them to Grand Blanc in just a couple of days.
 
Thanks for the pictures HD Rock. This is helpful info.
 
When you figure it out... let me know!

Also, I think you mentioned something about your stove needing legs in your other thread? I ended up buying the pedestal for mine, but it was already outfitted with the legs (it was a display model). If you happen to need legs for your stove, I'd be very happy to send them to you (for free, of course). I live in Grand Rapids... even snail mail would get them to Grand Blanc in just a couple of days.

Nope, I have legs but they don't work as good in the morning though ;lol;)

Ya ,stove has legs, I would rather have the pedestal , how much did the pedestal cost ya ;?
 
Thanks for the pictures HD Rock. This is helpful info.
Well thread is kinda off but file it in your memory banks bro :) nice size :)
 
Nope, I have legs but they don't work as good in the morning though ;lol;)

Ya ,stove has legs, I would rather have the pedestal , how much did the pedestal cost ya ;?
I know that feeling!

I just checked the invoice and the pedestal was $193. With the money you didn't spend on the new stove (which, frankly, looks just as nice as mine does), you can splurge and pick up that pedestal. Or, knowing your luck, tomorrow you'll see a CL post for "Pedestal kit for Lopi 1750 - $10."

As my dad always said: Better lucky than good. :)
 
I know that feeling!

I just checked the invoice and the pedestal was $193. With the money you didn't spend on the new stove (which, frankly, looks just as nice as mine does), you can splurge and pick up that pedestal. Or, knowing your luck, tomorrow you'll see a CL post for "Pedestal kit for Lopi 1750 - $10."

As my dad always said: Better lucky than good. :)
It's all good :) I fried my brain on CL, lookin for a used stove , missed a $200 deal
 
So...with all you experienced wood burners...how many of you have experience with both the soot eater and the standard rods and brush system...I have 20 feet of straight 6 inch pipe and can pick the rod & brush at Lowes. To me it seems as tho it would do as good or better than the soot eater?
 
You're fine if you prefer the rod and brush system. It likely does a better job, particularly if there is a serious accumulation in the pipe. And if you are up top, you can eyeball down the pipe for a more thorough inspection. Regardless, my days on steep roof need to come to an end before I do, so for me it will be the sooteater to get at the fairly light annual buildup. Ordered one yesterday.
 
You're fine if you prefer the rod and brush system. It likely does a better job, particularly if there is a serious accumulation in the pipe. And if you are up top, you can eyeball down the pipe for a more thorough inspection. Regardless, my days on steep roof need to come to an end before I do, so for me it will be the sooteater to get at the fairly light annual buildup. Ordered one yesterday.

But begreen...can't we use the standard and brush system from below?
 
Yes, though I thought top down was preferred for dust catching and to allow a better inspection of the top of the pipe. In our setup this seems to be where most accumulation occurs.

Full disclosure, due to our roof and the pipe location I have paid for the last few sweeps. (pipe installed in 2006) They have always done it top down.
 
I'm with you but it
Yes, though I thought top down was preferred for dust catching and to allow a better inspection of the top of the pipe. In our setup this seems to be where most accumulation occurs.

Full disclosure, due to our roof and the pipe location I have paid for the last few sweeps. (pipe installed in 2006) They have always done it top down.
seems as tho you would have that issue with either the soot eater or the standard rod & brush. Did you ever think...they don't do it from the bottom up...so you could go out and buy one and do it yourself? Haha...I mean...who wants to get on a 9/12 or steeper? Job security!
 
You could very well be right. We usually have a pretty light accumulation, though the year before we clogged the cap screen for the first time by burning some less than ideal wood. Ask me in a couple weeks. I'll either be cursing or delighted.

edit: FWIW, my thought was in order to guarantee no soot in the house when top down sweeping I would lift the telescoping pipe off the flue collar and tape bag around the pipe. But like I said, this is no longer an option for my old bones.
 
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I clean from below using the garbage bag technique after watching the company that installed my pipe do so for four years. They never had a ladder with them long enough to reach my roof, and didn't want to take mine out of the basement. Fifth year when they called, I told them I wanted in cleaned top down and the cap inspected. They told me they did that every year. Now, I was there....so I cancelled the sweep, ordered rods and a brush from Woodstock, and cleaned the chimney from below for two years. Then two years ago had a friend climb the steep, high roof and check the cap, pipe and sweep from above. He told me it was clear, and we only got about a cup of soot. Recently cleaned from below, about a cup total again. I have no mess with the garbage bag taped to support box method.
 
With good dry wood, a proper flue and a modern EPA stove the odds are that will all you will be seeing.
 
Joful...do you get up
9:12, meh... what's the problem? I could sleep on steeper than that.

Here's what I have to deal with: 12:12 pitch, slippery raised seam metal roof, with the peak at 50 feet.

View attachment 106561 View attachment 106562

I use the soot-eater mid-season, but like to get some eyes down from the top and inspect the crown once a year.
there?
 
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