New Wood Burning Guy - Insert Suggestions and Ideas

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Not sure if it will fit, but I may have a used PE Summit for sale soon.
 
So I’m narrowing it down to an insert I can find with a firebox of at least 2.0ft which will put me over my budget, or a free standing stove that I can squeeze into my hearth.
I’ve found a great couple deals on Majestic and Century’s inserts, but they are only 1.3-1.5 fireboxes, and I feel I won’t be able to heat as much as I want to.

I’m really set on the Englander NC30.. My local HD has one, and I want to go check them out. I would love to place this inside my hearth and use this solely to heat most of my home.
I feel based on the reviews, a block off plate, and a steel liner, I can achieve this with this stove.

The stove is literally a 28-29” high stove.. I wonder if I grinded off some of the legs if I can clear this? The inside of my hearth is higher once past the clearing, basically where my flue is, which I will need to grind out & clear to accommodate a 6” liner.


Can anyone give me there thoughts on doing this?
I’m guessing at most, my home is 1500-1700 sqft and I only truly want to heat the main floor and uppers so I’m guessing that puts me at 1300-1500 sqft.


image-jpg.113247
 
Jeff-

I think you will find the 30 will be able to cook you out of the house if you want it to. Its a great choice I'm sure you will be happy with.

As far as the install, Im no expert but I think any modification will both void the warranty and also risk failing inspection and insurance approval. The 30 however comes with an alternate pedestal mount option that I think is shorter than the legs and might solve your problem. You can download the manual from their website to check the clearances and requirements

http://www.englanderstoves.com/30-nc.html

We also have a great resource here in member stoveguy2esw - Mike Holton from Englander. You might try reaching out to him via PM and I bet he would be happy to give you the official factory word.
 
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You are probably going to need a rear vent stove if you plan to run the pipe up the chimney. And still you might not have the room on the hearth for the stove. There's nothing wrong with an insert. Freestanding does put out more heat without the blower, but inserts use the blower to push out the heat.
 
"First off - be ready to move that TV. Even if you have clearance the heat coming off an insert or stove will eventually cook it"

Is this absolutely true? I have such a setup, but with a full motion mount. Doesn't seem to be an issue.
 
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"First off - be ready to move that TV. Even if you have clearance the heat coming off an insert or stove will eventually cook it"

Is this absolutely true? I have such a setup, but with a full motion mount. Doesn't seem to be an issue.
Just be aware that heat is the enemy of any electronic equipment. Every installation will be different. Your TV manual should give operating temperature range specs and you can go from there. Personally, I don't think I'd be too comfortable with a TV directly above my stove. YMMV.
 
"First off - be ready to move that TV. Even if you have clearance the heat coming off an insert or stove will eventually cook it"

Is this absolutely true? I have such a setup, but with a full motion mount. Doesn't seem to be an issue.

I would definitely keep an eye on the temps there. I know with my Summit (without a fan blowing directly at that area above the mantle to circulate the heat that stratifies there) I record temps in the mid to upper 90sF in that location. Ymmv, but I wouldn't take the risk with my own tv.
 
I've seen the ceiling above my stove read 85 or more, Thats 5 feet off the stove top.
 
Check out the nc30i. http://englanderstoves.com/13-nci.html

1500 sq feet heating. Big glass window.1.8 cu in firebox.
I would think that the Englander 13 would work fine for that house if it fits. You're not going to get much of that heat to the lower level anyway.

Regarding insert vs freestanding, a freestanding stove will probably be more effective if you can do it physically. An insert needs a blower to get the heat out into the room. Radiant heat will be less. If the masonry is on an outside wall exposed to the outside, some of the heat will be radiated out and lost. If the fireplace is central, inside the house, it won't matter.
 
I've seen the ceiling above my stove read 85 or more, Thats 5 feet off the stove top.
That wouldn't be too bad, but I'd be more concerned with my TV absorbing radiant heat so close.
 
That wouldn't be too bad, but I'd be more concerned with my TV absorbing radiant heat so close.

Yeah the ceiling doesn't worry me, but it did make me think his TV at 1 ft way might see well over 100f temps.

Edit, that TV is probably too close for the clearance requirements of most stoves anyway.
 
Check out the Lopi Answer free-standing stove. I have one in a similar fireplace opening, and it heats a 1250 square foot house well enough to offset the oil usage. My bedrooms are also at the far end of the house, so they are cooler, but we like it that way.

A Lopi Answer stove will not be really convenient for 24/7 burning, but you said "offset", not "eliminate" oil usage. And it has a nice window to watch the fire. It is also double-jacketed and if outfitted with a blower, will move most of the heat into the room.

Downsides - price (~$2500). It's a good stove, but you pay for the quality.
Upsides - it probably fits in the opening, vents out the top (straight up the flue, and with a 13' chimney, you want it as straight as you can get it to hold a good draft), has a big viewing window for a small stove.

I would get your wood dry first - what your friend says is seasoned is likely not dry enough. You will just frustrate yourself trying to burn with that wood this year. We've all been there, so learn from us. Then, save up your money for a good stove. I won't contradict the advice you'll get from others on what size stove to buy, but just make sure that you know what your goals are (e.g. "eliminate oil usage" or "offset oil usage") and buy what you need.
 
You're not going to get much of that heat to the lower level anyway.

Right, that's a split level so he might get some heat down there in the higher parts even with the stove/insert in the mid level LR. Though actually it depends on how many steps down the lower level is. Most splits I've seen the bedrooms are more steps away than the lower level, which in some cases might only be a few steps down. Also depends on how the room(s) down there are laid out (I didn't see a drawing of the lower level).
 
So I’m narrowing it down to an insert I can find with a firebox of at least 2.0ft which will put me over my budget, or a free standing stove that I can squeeze into my hearth.
I’ve found a great couple deals on Majestic and Century’s inserts, but they are only 1.3-1.5 fireboxes, and I feel I won’t be able to heat as much as I want to.

I’m really set on the Englander NC30.. My local HD has one, and I want to go check them out. I would love to place this inside my hearth and use this solely to heat most of my home.
I feel based on the reviews, a block off plate, and a steel liner, I can achieve this with this stove.

The stove is literally a 28-29” high stove.. I wonder if I grinded off some of the legs if I can clear this? The inside of my hearth is higher once past the clearing, basically where my flue is, which I will need to grind out & clear to accommodate a 6” liner.


Can anyone give me there thoughts on doing this?
I’m guessing at most, my home is 1500-1700 sqft and I only truly want to heat the main floor and uppers so I’m guessing that puts me at 1300-1500 sqft.


image-jpg.113247

The 30 comes with a pedestal base and the optional 9" legs.
They do also make a 6" leg kit.
 
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The 30 comes with a pedestal base and the optional 9" legs.
They do also make a 6" leg kit.
If that fits, I'd say go for it. It probably is overkill in size, but you can have smaller fires and I'm unfamiliar with your climate. Other 30 owners can address the issue of size better, but it or the 13 is probably the best stove available for your budget. As others have said, you generally get what you pay for, but the Englander line seems to be a bit of an exception.
 
If that fits, I'd say go for it. It probably is overkill in size, but you can have smaller fires and I'm unfamiliar with your climate. Other 30 owners can address the issue of size better, but it or the 13 is probably the best stove available for your budget. As others have said, you generally get what you pay for, but the Englander line seems to be a bit of an exception.

From what I’m seeing, the 26” high Englander NC-13 would fit in my house. I wonder how long the burn times are? I’m REALLY trying to offset using any oil.

As for the wood, the Wood is dry, he does this for a living and is kept out of the elements minus air and breeze. It’s great burning and I can refer him. His prices are $130 a cord. (South Central Pennslyvania)
 
If the 6" legs on the NC-30 don't make it work could you take a row or two of bricks out to give yourself more height? You might have to redo the front of the hearth, but it would open up more options.
 
Stove is still too tall for their fireplace with the six inch legs. The stove top would then be 27" high but the flue collar/heat shield add two more inches of height. Wouldn't be able to get to the liner/flue collar to attach it.
 
The 30. We were typing at the same time.
 
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