4 Dolla

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Which color should the cant hook become?

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EatenByLimestone

EatenByLimestone

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Jul 12, 2006
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Schenectady, NY
upstatepestandwildlife.com
I happened into a barn sale today and the head of a cant hook followed me home. I'll need to convert the rust and find a good sapling for the lever, but that'll make a good project. It's in an old bread bag getting it's rust dissolved as I write this. I have to pick up a can of primer for it. I have 2 colors of Rustoleum handy. A brush on enamel in dark green or a hammer textured brown that I picked up to look like rust. Which color?

 
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Looks pretty cool & they are an absolute must when moving heavy logs or cants.If it was me,I'd remove all the rust & give it a good rub down with some WD-40 or regular 10-30 oil.With heavy use the paint will get worn off pretty fast anyway,no matter what kind is used.
 
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I really like Thistle's suggestion. Rick
 
I thought about orange, but I figured this should be a low budget thing considering any paint would be beaten up pretty bad.

Oil is a great idea, only this will be a spare for the family cabin. I'm not sure how much use it will get. I have a Peavey to use down here. There is oil on the metal and linseed oil on the wood.
 
I picked 'other' and was going to suggest orange as well, but +1 with Thistle. Cheers!
 
Spray it with some Ospho to kill the rust.....works amazing! Also put a pre-coat on it of Penetrol. The U.S. Navy has used it since WWII to protect the metal on ships. I think yellow or orange would be a great color so that you can find it in the woods :)
 
I used phosphoric acid, it is the major ingredient that Ospho has in it. Isn't Penetrol a thinner? It looks like orange paint will be the winner. I'll pick some up tomorrow.
 
EatenByLimestone said:
I used phosphoric acid, it is the major ingredient that Ospho has in it. Isn't Penetrol a thinner? It looks like orange paint will be the winner. I'll pick some up tomorrow.
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Penetrol is a sealer and protects. They make another product that makes paint "flow" on smoothly so that it looks like it was sprayed on instead of brushed on. I used the Penetrol on my MGB Roadster for rust protection.....works great!
 
TreePointer said:
I'm about to paint my cant hook and pickeroon. I was thinking fluorescent orange to help me find them when I inevitably leave one somewhere in the woods.
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Funny you should mention that. After leaving my white pvc measuring stick in the woods , I just painted my stuff.

P1010054.JPG

Yeah, it will get scratched and beat up, but I figure enough will remain to make it easy to find.
 
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Got one just like it....Another vote for orange! All my yard / wood tools are orange EXCEPT my cant hook. Now I "cant" find where the boys drug it! Even a bit left on the shaft helps.

I was able to drawknife down an old pickax handle to fit it.
 
I picked up a small can of oil based Allis Chalmers Orange at Ace Hardware. It should be visible enough. It should be fairly durable too. We'll see. I'll have plenty of paint left over should I need to fix it later on.

This should be pretty close to what color it ends up as:

Allis%20Chalmers%20b%201280.JPG


Matt
 
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Kinda related...paint you log chains something bright too. After I lost my first one I've been rattle canning them blaze orange. It wears off pretty quick, but you don't need much on there to make them easier to see in the dirt/leaves.
 
I'm a big blue fan. Everything gets the blue treatment. Blue is unlike other natural colors and more visible than orange.

I find it hilarious that some fool thought camoflauge was a good color for tie down straps and chainsaws. Camo generators from Honda (eu2000i even) seem silly but there is a time that you want to hide a genset.

Oiling a tool is fine after a good coat of paint is applied and begins to wear. It's those parts of the tool that are not subject to regular abrasion that benefit from paint.
 
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Camo is the marketing and sales department's dream. Loose it or back over it with the truck and you'll have to buy a new one!
 
I think what you got is a peavey not a cant hook,cant don't lead out as far as peavey. It appears as if the spike is missing but one can be made for the end.
 
Could very well be that it was originally a peavey. I haven't used the spike on the one I have so I doubt I'd need a spike for this one.

Here it is after dissolving the rust, priming and painting it. It'll last another hundred years.



I have a sapling I have to fit for a handle. I'm going to have to think of the best way to fit the sapling as I cut it down yesterday. It'll be drying for a long time. Maybe leave it loose while it dries so I can reseat it? Maybe a wedge that I can drive in on the end so I can retighten it as needed? I'll have to think about this one for a while.

Matt
 
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EatenByLimestone said:
Could very well be that it was originally a peavey. I haven't used the spike on the one I have so I doubt I'd need a spike for this one.

Here it is after dissolving the rust, priming and painting it. It'll last another hundred years.



I have a sapling I have to fit for a handle. I'm going to have to think of the best way to fit the sapling as I cut it down yesterday. It'll be drying for a long time. Maybe leave it loose while it dries so I can reseat it? Maybe a wedge that I can drive in on the end so I can retighten it as needed? I'll have to think about this one for a while.

Matt
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I've been waiting to find a cant/peavy parts hook at a barn sale. I want to make a wheelcant out of that and a wheel barrow for picking up and transporting short logs. I got the idea from moving around railroad ties for retaining walls. Any color will do.
 
EatenByLimestone said:
If all you want is the hook, have you thought of making one? You can use propane to heat the steel.

Here's Roy showing how to do it:

http://video.pbs.org/video/2178676894/

Matt
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Matt, that's a great suggestion and a great vid! I visit the blacksmith shop here at the Cooperstown Farmer's Museum a couple of times a year. It's fascinating to watch them work, and they do custom work for locals, Thanx!
 
EatenByLimestone said:
Could very well be that it was originally a peavey. I haven't used the spike on the one I have so I doubt I'd need a spike for this one.

Here it is after dissolving the rust, priming and painting it. It'll last another hundred years.



I have a sapling I have to fit for a handle. I'm going to have to think of the best way to fit the sapling as I cut it down yesterday. It'll be drying for a long time. Maybe leave it loose while it dries so I can reseat it? Maybe a wedge that I can drive in on the end so I can retighten it as needed? I'll have to think about this one for a while.

Matt
Click to expand...


Drawknife,spokeshave,cabinet scraper and/or cabinet rasp in that order once its dried a bit.Final shaping to your liking once its installed & dried fully.If you drive it in tight while its green it will just loosen & fall out after it dries.
 
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