Aquastat question

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What is the brand and model of the 3 way zone valve, I don't quite comprehend the wiring diagram that you have posted. I'd like to see the manual of the 3 way valve. That relay can be used a number of ways to solve wiring "issues".

Ron
 
How about the model number of the zone valve and a real world photo of the valve itself. This is a wiring issue probably solved in about 10 minutes. The manual shows SPDT and SPST type valves, all of which have 6 terminals on the valve.
 
How about the model number of the zone valve and a real world photo of the valve itself. This is a wiring issue probably solved in about 10 minutes. The manual shows SPDT and SPST type valves, all of which have 6 terminals on the valve.

I attached the info for both the actuator and the 3 way valve. If you need a picture of the valve in the system itself, I can get one for you in a few hours. I just finished scrubbing the basement floor and it will be dry in about an hour. Just came up to get something to drink and saw the post.

Thank you,

Bob
 

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I attached the info for both the actuator and the 3 way valve. If you need a picture of the valve in the system itself, I can get one for you in a few hours. I just finished scrubbing the basement floor and it will be dry in about an hour. Just came up to get something to drink and saw the post.

Thank you,

Bob


Guinness? I'm a Smithwicks fan myself.
 
Guinness? I'm a Smithwicks fan myself.

Two beautiful children from the same wonderful mother. I have never said "no" to either. As a matter of fact, I think I'll have one tonight. You have excellent taste.

Bob
 
How many wires or terminals do we have on this three way valve, and what might they be labeled or colored? I believe that the three way valve is "not talking" to the Aquasmart. We need to open a line of communication, in the mean time I'm going to have a Smithwick's.
 
Was there some reason you thought the diagram above would not do the trick?

Shouldn't his three way valve have white, orange and grey wires for an end switch. I haven't seen them in any part of the thread yet. Maybe I'm missing something? If the valve is missing the end switch you can make one with a RIB relay, I do it all the time. I just can't see buying an unnecessary relay, if the end switch is there. The Tekmar and Aquasmart should be isolated in my opinion as they each have their own 24 v transformer.
 
Shouldn't his three way valve have white, orange and grey wires for an end switch. I haven't seen them in any part of the thread yet. Maybe I'm missing something? If the valve is missing the end switch you can make one with a RIB relay, I do it all the time. I just can't see buying an unnecessary relay, if the end switch is there. The Tekmar and Aquasmart should be isolated in my opinion as they each have their own 24 v transformer.
I see what you're saying. I was seeing an end switch where there isn't one. Does there need to be a DPDT (DPST) activated by the Tekmar stage-two contacts, on pole to activate the valve actuator and another to close T-T to the aquastat?
 
I see what you're saying. I was seeing an end switch where there isn't one. Does there need to be a DPDT (DPST) activated by the Tekmar stage-two contacts, on pole to activate the valve actuator and another to close T-T to the aquastat?

I would try wiring the end switch that is closed when the three way valve is open to the oil boiler to T-T on the Aquasmart. That should fire the oil boiler.

I believe that they are using the stage two contacts to move the three way valve.
 
How many wires or terminals do we have on this three way valve, and what might they be labeled or colored? I believe that the three way valve is "not talking" to the Aquasmart. We need to open a line of communication, in the mean time I'm going to have a Smithwick's.

The 3 wires are blue, brown and black.

Cheers
 
The three way valve seems to be without an end switch. A RIB relay will emulate an end switch. With the powered side of the RIB wired to stage two on the Tekmar and the other side wired to T-T on the Aquasmart. Problem solved $10.
 
I'm using that 3-way zone valve and actuator with a tekmar thermostat. They go through a taco zone valve controller. Taco had a bigger PDF that showed how to wire up all their pump and zone valve controllers. That is what I used to find out how to wire mine. I'm sure it was from the main taco website.
I had (on page 60) Honeywell VC 40 & 80 (spdt) hydronic zone valve with taco zone valve control. I only copied that page.
I could go look at the color of my wires later if It will help.
 
The 3 wires are blue, brown and black.
The Series 20, 40, and 80 all have blue, brown, and black wires. Series 20 uses SPDT control, series 40 and 80 use SPST control. I don't think we can tell what type of actuator it is just by the color of the wires. Or did I miss upthread where the type of actuator was identified?
 
The three way valve seems to be without an end switch. A RIB relay will emulate an end switch. With the powered side of the RIB wired to stage two on the Tekmar and the other side wired to T-T on the Aquasmart. Problem solved $10.
So the 401 accumulates error on the supply header sensor and activates stage two high fire, but there's still a call for heat to the wood boiler on stage one, is that right? But on high fire the three way valve shuts off flow from the wood boiler so it shuts down on high limit.

Meanwhile the oil boiler comes up to temperature from a cold start, brings the supply header back up to setpoint, and then the 401 goes back to low fire. If wood boiler can respond quickly enough to satisfy demand going forward we're good, else cycle repeats?

Seems like the wood boiler could spend a lot of time ready and willing to supply heat, but the 401 will keep it valved off when it's most needed.
 
So the 401 accumulates error on the supply header sensor and activates stage two high fire, but there's still a call for heat to the wood boiler on stage one, is that right? But on high fire the three way valve shuts off flow from the wood boiler so it shuts down on high limit.

Meanwhile the oil boiler comes up to temperature from a cold start, brings the supply header back up to setpoint, and then the 401 goes back to low fire. If wood boiler can respond quickly enough to satisfy demand going forward we're good, else cycle repeats?

Seems like the wood boiler could spend a lot of time ready and willing to supply heat, but the 401 will keep it valved off when it's most needed.

That's the way I understand it. That Tekmar control is for a SINGLE boiler, either two stage or modulating, assuming I read the manual correctly.

http://tekmarcontrols.com/products/hvac-systems/401.html
 
I'm using that 3-way zone valve and actuator with a tekmar thermostat. They go through a taco zone valve controller. Taco had a bigger PDF that showed how to wire up all their pump and zone valve controllers. That is what I used to find out how to wire mine. I'm sure it was from the main taco website.
I had (on page 60) Honeywell VC 40 & 80 (spdt) hydronic zone valve with taco zone valve control. I only copied that page.
I could go look at the color of my wires later if It will help.

What model zone valve controller do you use?

Bob
 
The Series 20, 40, and 80 all have blue, brown, and black wires. Series 20 uses SPDT control, series 40 and 80 use SPST control. I don't think we can tell what type of actuator it is just by the color of the wires. Or did I miss upthread where the type of actuator was identified?

Is there a number or other identifying character I can get off of the actuator for you?

Bob
 
I have a taco 403-4 ZVC.
I looked over the thread closer. I don't have exactly what you have. I am not trying to modulate temperatures with the three way valve. I have a VCZmr6100 three way valve, a VC8714zzn actuator with end switch and a tekmar 509 thermostat on the other side of the taco zone valve controller.
I have constant circulation in a concrete shop floor. The three way valve adds mixed hot water in one position, when the thermostat calls for it, and just in-floor re-circulation in the other position.
I cant tell the model of the actuator that you have.
 
My actuator had a label on top of the plastic housing. I also had it in my stack of paperwork from the receipts.
The one I have is also black plastic for 24 volt. I think green is 120 volt.
 
Is there a number or other identifying character I can get off of the actuator for you?
I'm guessing it's one of these:

zvmodel.png
 
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