New nc 30 with semi dry wood?

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According to the manual you need 12" between the rear corner and the wall for clearance even with a protected surface. Maybe the picture is misleading but are you sure you have that?


Interesting idea. Was that in there when you moved in or did you add those openings?

It was there when we bought it a year ago.

Checked the clearance. I have 11" to the knotty pine wall with a row of brick in front of the wall. Stove is pretty hot and bricks are only warm.
 
Cedar should season pretty quickly, and in CA you have much drier summers than most of us do in the east. I would expect your cedar to be pretty good, if it has been split and stacked for four months in Cal.


Ya Im good. Its burning really well. What a difference from my previous stove. Its like the wood is smoldering with a gasoline type fire in the top of the stove. Amazing. The toxic smelling smoke from the paint kinda sucks. Glad it isn't real cold for my first fire.
 
Cant get over how cool this thing works.

fire 2 98.JPG
 
If that's your break in fire, you're going to melt that thing in no time when you get it rolling! Not to mention going through about a cord of wood a week! Lol
 
Ya I wanted to get the paint smoke and smell over with. Believe it or not it was choked down quite a bit. By the way Incense cedar burns like gasoline. Smoke is just now clearing out of the house.
 
By the way Incense cedar burns like gasoline.
It has high oil content. That's why I suggested burning 6-8" thick splits. Do you have a stove top thermometer?
 
Good advice thanks. I should have said my semi dry cedar burns like gasoline in my new stove. No thermometer.
 
Get a decent thermometer to guide you. It will help watch for overfiring the stove. Try to keep the stovetop under 700F at peak burn.
 
Anyone recommend a thermometer? And then what do you do with it? Lay it on top of the stove?
 
Thanks begreen
Amazon has it for a dollar more with free 2 day shipping if you have prime. I get my new thermometer and moisture meter on Thursday. I feel like I am turning into a regular stovetard lol You guys are a lot of help thanks
 
Place the thermo on the center front of the step on the top. Since the flame impingement shield is welded in right there it is the hottest place on the stove.
 
Word. BrotherBart introduced the 30NC to hearth.com.
 
Does that brick wall have an airspace between the combustible wall? I'm just thinking on the side of safety
 
I feel like I am turning into a regular stovetard lol You guys are a lot of help thanks

Not to fear - it's a bit more of a science than it used to be with the old smoke dragons. Not a difficult science, but if disregarded it can be a disappointing experience and further - dangerous. That stove top thermometer will really let you know how the stove is performing and as @begreen mentioned, don't let it get above 700F. If you have the included blower installed, it can help you cool it down a bit if you get close to that mark.

The moisture meter is invaluable with newer stoves, as it is part of that science to know how much moisture you have in your wood. Knowing this you have a better idea of how the stove is going to perform or whether or not you should be burning the wood at all.

I just put in my second England's Stove Works stove this year and I couldn't be happier with the price to performance ratio. IMHO, the 30NC is dollar for dollar the best bang for your buck. Although this is my first season with my 30NC, my experience last season with my 13NC and the many users here who love their 30NCs ensure that I will be very pleased.
 
I've burned many cords of cedar and also many cords of cypress looking cedar juniper junk. It is not as oily and explosive as you might think so long as it is cut like regular firewood. The energy content is very similar to other softwoods. Nice to work with and smells good.

700 is pretty cool for the NC30. 800 is the typical limit for most stove companies that are willing to give you a temperature. Some folks have gone way over 800 with no problems but I use 800 as my personal limit or if something glows red which has never happened.

Oh and be careful not to melt the little air deflector thing that hangs into the top of the loading door. It's really thin and subject to high heat loads when you are running at high air settings.

Finally, is that class A all the way down to your stove? Why did you do that?
 
Ya its double wall all the way. Same as my old pipe but 6" instead of 8". The reason I did it that way was I would have had to change the celing support box to a 6" since it was an 8". This way I just got a 6' flange and screwed it to the 8" box to keep it center of the hole and ran threw it. Funny thing was my new pipe got dented in shipping and the vendor sent me new pipe. They told me to keep the old stuff. I may end up selling it for some substantial discount.
 
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Got my meter and checked my wood. Most of the cedar is 4 to 8% and the oak depending on the size goes from 16 to 28%. Not bad for a few months.
Bear knocked over my stack on the far right a couple weeks ago. He had a bag of my garbage and used my wood stack for a ladder to get over a barb wire fence in my back yard
Gonna have to put a sprinkler on the cedar before it lights itself on fire lol
 

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4-8% is very low. Was the wood split in half and tested on the freshly exposed face of the wood?
 
Ya thats how I did it. Maybe the 7 year old Chinese kid that built it had a bad day? I checked 4 or 5 pieces.
 
Low batteries will screw up the measurement too.
 
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I was surprised how dry it was. It was really really dry. Didn't hardly weigh anything.
 
Be careful burning the cedar. Temps are warm right now. When it gets cold draft will be much stronger. Mix it in with the oak to slow it down or stick to burning just the thicker splits.
 
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