Does this look safe?

[OnlyWhnChasd]

Wow, it's been a long time since I've stopped by the forum; but it's August so it is time to start thinking about the winter burn season.

Over the summer we added a front porch to our house. I'm now looking at the vent for the pellet stove and wondering if we need to reconfigure it to make it safe/safer given the proximity to the step (see pics). I have looked at the manual, and the specification for inside corner (which is the closest thing I could really compare this to) was a minimum 12" clearance. Technically this setup meets the minimum but... eh, minimum and fire make me nervous.

The clearance to the top composite rail on the stair rail is exactly 12". The clearance to the wood components is 13". Does this seem like it would be okay, or would it be wise to add a T and some pipe to make this an out and up instead of just an out? As I said, technically it meets the minimum requirements but I'd like to have some "expert" opinion on whether or not it would be wise to reconfigure.

Also, it is obviously capped off right now. During burn season, this is the termination cap that is on the pipe: http://www.build.com/duravent-3pvp-hc/s190125

 

[claydogg84]

I would add a Tee and send it up just for the fact of someone climbing the steps and getting their hand too close..

 

[johneh]

As long as it is with in specs I think you are OK
That being said there is always some nut job who will stick his
hand in the exhaust just to see how hot it is . So add a 90 and
take it out of harms or stupid peoples way .

 

[bags]

I think you are likely OK also. 12" is 12"...... but then again I'd rather be safe than sorry. Maybe the first time you fire up the stove this fall go out and look and feel around etc; to see how things are. Pellet exhaust really doesn't throw out many hot embers like a wood fire and chimney do. Not saying it can not nor won't happen but........

I have that same termination 45 elbow. You can adjust it to aim away from the railing. Kind of down and to the right away from the rail. On mine the very end of it swivels. Yours should also but it could be slightly different.

 

[OnlyWhnChasd]

Thanks, everyone, for the input. The exhaust doesn't get that hot (it's a corner install and there is a fair bit of pipe inside--guessing that is why), so I'm not too worried about someone putting their hand on it and getting burned. People do weird things though, for sure! I'm mostly concerned about the occasional ember and the possibility that it would cause a problem. I know the chance is very slim, but since we run 24/7 in the winter, it's just not something I want to worry about. It will be about $500 in parts and an afternoon of swearing from my husband in order to redo it, but I'll be able to go to sleep at night knowing our fancy new porch isn't going to catch fire.

So, now knowing that the configuration needs to change, do I also need to change to a different termination cap? I usually see this type http://www.build.com/duravent-3pvp-hsc/s190129 on out/up exhaust set ups. Is there a reason? Rather not buy unnecessary parts, but if I'm going to do it I want to make sure it's done right.

 

[claydogg84]

After looking at the current termination cap you have, I think I would just install that and turn the 45 away from the deck.

 

[OnlyWhnChasd]

After looking at the current termination cap you have, I think I would just install that and turn the 45 away from the deck.

Do you mean using the current termination cap on the new out/up exhaust setup, or just installing the current termination cap on the existing exhaust and turning it away from the deck?

 

[claydogg84]

Do you mean using the current termination cap on the new out/up exhaust setup, or just installing the current termination cap on the existing exhaust and turning it away from the deck?

I don't see any real need to go vertical with the cap you have. I would just install the 45 pointing away from the deck on the existing horizontal pipe.

 

[Don2222]

Hello
I suggest you check the termination clearances in you stove manual for your stove. The quad manual and others state 12" to an outside corner is fine but if there is an adjacent wood structure or in your case protruding wood structure from the house then 24" is required. Therefore to meet code requirements you could add a 2 foot section or an elbow and go up high enough to be 24" away from that porch structure.

 

[OnlyWhnChasd]

Hello
I suggest you check the termination clearances in you stove manual for your stove. The quad manual and others state 12" to an outside corner is fine but if there is an adjacent wood structure or in your case protruding wood structure from the house then 24" is required. Therefore to meet code requirements you could add a 2 foot section or an elbow and go up high enough to be 24" away from that porch structure.

Thanks Don, as stated in the OP, I have checked the manual and it specifies 12" clearance to an inside corner (as well 12" to outside corner). This is the manual http://downloads.hearthnhome.com/installManuals/7034_277.pdf. Page 9 specifies clearances. Inside corner is about as close as I can come to the scenario I have with our porch. I may just go ahead though and reconfigure so there is no doubt--doubt and fire don't make for a good sleep.

 

[Don2222]

Thanks Don, as stated in the OP, I have checked the manual and it specifies 12" clearance to an inside corner (as well 12" to outside corner). This is the manual http://downloads.hearthnhome.com/installManuals/7034_277.pdf. Page 9 specifies clearances. Inside corner is about as close as I can come to the scenario I have with our porch. I may just go ahead though and reconfigure so there is no doubt--doubt and fire don't make for a good sleep.

You are welcome, My cb1200 manual is a bit more comprehensive.
See part D below. That is what I quoted.

 

[ScotL]

As long as it is with in specs I think you are OK
That being said there is always some nut job who will stick his
hand in the exhaust just to see how hot it is . So add a 90 and
take it out of harms or stupid peoples way .

That reminds me of a saying my father likes to use:
"Never underestimate the ingenuity of a fool."
Meaning: no matter how much you try to prevent foolish actions, someone will still find a way to do something stupid.

 

[OnlyWhnChasd]

You are welcome, My cb1200 manual is a bit more comprehensive.
See part D below. That is what I quoted.

Thanks for the follow up and diagram. Looking at the illustration for D, I believe the 24" spec is for a structure that is directly across from the exhaust vent; so if my stair rail was across, instead of to the side of the vent, the 24" clearance would apply. Since it is to the side though, it would (I believe) be more akin to an inside corner.

While I do believe it is within specs/code, I am leaning more towards paying the money and routing it up. Then I wouldn't have to fret and worry about ambiguities.

 

[Don2222]

Thanks for the follow up and diagram. Looking at the illustration for D, I believe the 24" spec is for a structure that is directly across from the exhaust vent; so if my stair rail was across, instead of to the side of the vent, the 24" clearance would apply. Since it is to the side though, it would (I believe) be more akin to an inside corner.

While I do believe it is within specs/code, I am leaning more towards paying the money and routing it up. Then I wouldn't have to fret and worry about ambiguities.

Good analysis, you may be correct, since the hot smoke is not blowing directly on the structure. A town inspector would be the official call if you want to go that route.

 

[OnlyWhnChasd]

Good analysis, you may be correct, since the hot smoke is not blowing directly on the structure. A town inspector would be the official call if you want to go that route.

Hehe, our inspectors are good guys, but pellet stoves are not their thing. I know from the original install they will just tell me to check my manual and then blindly sign off while just assuming everything is in correctly.

 

[Pete Zahria]

To answer the title question... Yes.