Needed, help with creosote

[Lattf]

View attachment 152043 View attachment 152044 I moved in about 6 months ago, and am now experiencing winter with a wood stove for the first time. I have lived with fireplaces with inserts before.
I have lots of creosote running down the outside of the stove pipe. I have replaced the old pipe and still have the problem.
It is single walled. I put the new pipe together exactly like the previous one. I added stove and fireplace cement and mortar to the fittings and three screws to each connection. I am posting pics.

 

[bholler]

Well to start your pipe is upside down.

 

[bholler]

What stove is it hooked to? What moisture content is your wood at? What is your typical burning procedure? Also what chimney is it going into?

 

[Typ0]

it looks like the crosote is running up your pipe not down it to me...

 

[Lattf]

What stove is it hooked to? What moisture content is your wood at? What is your typical burning procedure? Also what chimney is it going into?

The stove has no name or markings visible. I replaced the pipe exactly like the old one. The collar on the back of the stove could only accept the pipe female end first. Don't know the moisture content of the wood. How do you know that? I've gotten several loads of wood from different people, some seemed well cured some not so much. I've been trying to mix it.
Typical burning procedure is to get the stove up to 450-500, the creosote starts crackling in the pipe so much that hotter makes me nervous. I then close off the damper about 25%. The temp stays pretty steady, then I load in more wood about 3-4 hours later. I close off the front air inlets almost all the way before bed, then get up around 3-4 hrs later to load in more wood.
The chimney has a clay liner about 10" across I think.

 

[Lattf]

I re uploaded the pics so they are right side up.

 

[begreen]

The pipe needs to be installed with the crimped end down, toward the stove, so that any creosote drips in the pipe back toward the stove.

 

[Lattf]

The crimped end is the same size as the collar. Too big to fit inside the collar, too small to fit on the outside of the collar. Suggestions?

 

[begreen]

Sounds like it might need a flue collar adapter.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

The crimped end is the same size as the collar. Too big to fit inside the collar, too small to fit on the outside of the collar. Suggestions?

You will have to buy or make an adapter. Looks like you will be having a chimney fire at some point. I hope your chimney can stand the heat. Probably damage it anyway. Looks like 2 things at play. You are using green wood and you have a old NON EPA stove that does not burn the smoke an have been burning it for awhile with green wood . Thats problem with those old stoves, you got to burn em hot and fast and fill em all the time. If you slow em down too much you make tar.
(Disclaimer) Its too late to burn yours hot and fast. A chimney fire will surely result.

 

[bholler]

Yeah you need better wood your burn procedure sounds about right but probably bad wood. And yes the pipe needs flipped a liner would help as well. I aslo have to ask what are the walls made of? Unless they are totally noncombustibe materials your stove is to close for sure.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

My brother had a setup like that ,had about 2 chimney fires a year.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Welcome to the forum! Good on ya for looking into things when you realized something wasn't right.

 

[begreen]

Yeah you need better wood your burn procedure sounds about right but probably bad wood. And yes the pipe needs flipped a liner would help as well. I aslo have to ask what are the walls made of? Unless they are totally noncombustibe materials your stove is to close for sure.

Yes, single wall pipe must be 18" from any combustible. An unlisted stove needs to be 36" from combustibles in all directions unless there is a proper wall shield.

 

[Lattf]

You will have to buy or make an adapter. Looks like you will be having a chimney fire at some point. I hope your chimney can stand the heat. Probably damage it anyway. Looks like 2 things at play. You are using green wood and you have a old NON EPA stove that does not burn the smoke an have been burning it for awhile with green wood . Thats problem with those old stoves, you got to burn em hot and fast and fill em all the time. If you slow em down too much you make tar.

Are you saying that even if I get an adapter and switch the pipe around, a chimney fire is likely? What are The factors that you see which make the chimney fire likely. How should I go about not having "green wood", other than looking at it which I don't know that I would be able to judge, or just taking the person's word about how long it has seasoned ?

 

[bholler]

How should I go about not having "green wood", other than looking at it which I don't know that I would be able to judge, or just taking the person's word about how long it has seasoned ?

Get a moisture meter you can get inexpensive ones $30 to $40.

Are you saying that even if I get an adapter and switch the pipe around, a chimney fire is likely? What are The factors that you see which make the chimney fire likely.

Yes that is allot of creosote running down the pipe there i am sure there is also allot in the chimney. Switching the pipe around will keep the creosote in the pipe but will not reduce the risk of a chimney fire. In order to do that you need dry wood and i would have a pro come out and check out your setup for safety and performance issues

 

[begreen]

The best way is to test wood before they unload the truck. You can do this with a moisture meter or lacking that with a more basic test. Wet wood when banged together will go thud. Dry wood will sound a musical note. When you get load of wood delivered take a few random large splits off the truck and get out the maul and split them in half. Then press the freshly exposed surface of the wood up against your cheek. If it feels cold and damp, the wood is not fully seasoned. If you have a moisture meter, push the pins into the freshly exposed face of the wood. Never test on the end grain. Try this test on some of the wood you are currently burning.

 

[Lattf]

Yes, single wall pipe must be 18" from any combustible. An unlisted stove needs to be 36" from combustibles in all directions unless there is a proper wall shield.

The pipe is 14" from the wall. I moved the stove a few inches further from the wall but it's still too close. This is all good info to share with my landlord. He keeps referring to the place as "rustic" when it really is just not up to code.

Honestly all this info is scaring my wife and she wants us to shut down the stove and have oil delivered though it's more expensive. She said waking up to smell of burning creosote is more than she can deal with, worrying about the kids breathing that and now maybe worrying about a fire.

Thank goodness we are moving In June.

 

[Lattf]

The best way is to test wood before they unload the truck. You can do this with a moisture meter or lacking that with a more basic test. Wet wood when banged together will go thud. Dry wood will sound a musical note. When you get load of wood delivered take a few random large splits off the truck and get out the maul and split them in half. Then press the freshly exposed surface of the wood up against your cheek. If it feels cold and damp, the wood is not fully seasoned. If you have a moisture meter, push the pins into the freshly exposed face of the wood. Never test on the end grain. Try this test on some of the wood you are currently burning.

Thank you. Just separated all the wood using this test for the next day or two.

 

[Lattf]

Are the angles a problem? We seem to have a lot of problem with bad draft.

 

[begreen]

This could be because the chimney liner is too large. Or it could be that the chimney is too short. What are the symptoms of bad draft you are seeing?

 

[Mag Craft]

I do not blame your wife and from what I see and read that is one scary set up you have going on there. I would not use it until it has been checked by a pro who knows what they are looking at.

 

[Lattf]

This could be because the chimney liner is too large. Or it could be that the chimney is too short. What are the symptoms of bad draft you are seeing?

Damper completely open but smoke coming out every time we open door. Only occasionally will it be drafting well and not belch out smoke when we open door.

 

[bholler]

Yes i agree with mag craft get a pro out the setup looks pretty bad i would not use it untill it is checked out by a qualified pro. And yes your landlord should pay for that

 

[begreen]

Yes, could be plugging up. The safest thing to do now is to stop using the stove and have the chimney checked and cleaned.