Living With an Obsolete Pellet Stove

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My father has a trailblazer 1600 in his house. It used to work great. Unfortunately it now fills the house with smoke. I believe the smoke is coming back through the pellet chute and into the hopper. The chimney looks pretty clear. I can't figure it out. Any ideas? My father thinks it's the pellets. I don't think so, there's still positive air flow in to the hopper through the pellet chute. Doesn't make any sense to me.
I have all the paperwork that came with the stove. Its 29 pages.
 
The smoke isn't coming up the pellet chute. It is coming thru gaps in the pellet hopper, or thru a bad door seal. You say the chimney looks clear... trust me.. from my experience it HAS to be clear. Do a very good cleaning. It would be a very good idea to pull the stove back away from the chimney. Look down the exhaust and make sure that is clear also. Take a vacuum to it and scrape any debris away from there. Also, there is a tube that sticks down into the burn chamber at the top of the door.... you have to shake that around a bunch to clear the ash from the upper chamber area. This is important. It may be a good idea for you to take a side panel or two off and vacuum out and clean very well the whole area there.. especially the fan blades and air intake. These models don't seem to be very forgiving to dirt.

One good trouble shooting method I found out is when the stove is burning, open the door.. does the flame increase and act like a blast furnace? If so, your flu is clogged. guaranteed. Good luck to you...
 
Thanks for the quick reply. We'll clean out the chimney and see if it helps. We have the unit out and the side panel off. We've cleaned it out and sealed the hopper. That's why we took the stove out again trying to figure out what's up. I lit some pellets in the cup and turned on the fan. I could see smoke coming into the hopper through the auger. If you put a lighter to the auger while the fan is on, you can see the lighters flame being blown by the air coming in. Seems like there should be some sort of positive airflow going into the hopper to prevent the air coming in from the firebox. Really strange. Maybe with the pellets in the hopper help prevent some of this airflow. I can't figure it out. We're doing this testing out side in a covered patio with no chimney attached. So I can't blame it on a dirty chimney! Maybe we'll try cleaning more around the tubes and the sliding baffle.
Thanks again. If you've got any other ideas I'm all ears!
 
I'd like to say 'thank you' to everyone who posted info on the Trailblazer here. You guys helped me figure a few things out since I was given this thing without docs.

The design is simple enough.. but a single fan producing positive airflow to the firebox makes me want to rethink using it. I took the time to replace all of the gasket material on the door and glass - trying to make it as airtight as I could (although it's nott 100%, it's pretty close).

What I also did was install a gasket under the fan to seal it better and quiet it down a bit. I also removed the screen mesh at the fan intake and put a new, larger mesh on the back side of the pedestal. That significantly reduced the nosie.

I'm also tempted to replace the electronics and give it a little more intelligence - like thermost control, remote control and more fail-safes. But, I figure that it took me this long just to get the stove installed.. I might actually do something in 2010.

Thanks again, folks
 
Chris 1450,
I recently got a Trailblazer 1600 manual and all. It too feeds faster than we like and it is nearly unused prior to our getting it, but my main purpose here is the manual. We will of course need ours but can copy for you and send if you still need one. Let me know.
Maureen
 
Re; manual copy Trailblazer---Send me an addrss (snail mail) and I will copy and send. I,m afraid it won't be awfully fast as we live far from town and getting down to get copies the old fashioned way will be necessary. Are you having a particular problem ? We very recently got our Trailblazer and would like to learn mre about it's quirks ( and it does have some)
Maureen
 
I have read all the posts about The Trailblazer 1600 and want to say thanks to all that contributed. I too inherited one (actually bought it) and have been searching for written material for it.
To Maureen....if it is at all possible could I get a copy of your manual....I would be more than happy to pay you for it...however it is sent or copied....email, snail mail or even fax...if you let me know the price.
Thank you
Linda
:)
 
Firestarter, Maureen, Linda, or anybody involved with the Trail Blazer Classic 1600:

We also inherited a stove with no manual, and would really appreciate anyone's help in getting a copy. We're also willing to pay for whatever costs are incurred in mailing, faxing, emailing, etc the manual.

We're also specifically looking for a control board--or at least the control knob on the board. Our knob broke off, and we've been using a screw driver to turn the control!! Sure would appreciate any leads for finding parts.

Newcomers, Mike and Bernice
 
If the person with the manual for the stove scans it as pdf file it will email just fine and you can open it with the adobe reader witch you can download for free. The scanned file usually comes out clearer than a copied and recopied file and is a smaller file that a jpeg or tif (image file). bjr23
 
I have a Trailblazer 1600 that has a problem with the auger/motor. I am fairly familiar with the stove, The one I just purchased is in fair shape but the auger won't turn on when the control know is in Low, Med, or High. The control knob will turn 360 degrees (go past high and all the way back to the off position) about half way, when the control knob is in the 3 o'clock position I can get the auger to turn on, but feeds continuously, turning with out stopping. The amount of pellets fed through can not burn fast enough and the entire front will fill up if left to do so.
 
Hi,
Is anyone still monitoring this thread? i recently bought a home that has a Trailblazer pellet stove. I know absolutely NOTHING about these stoves (my first house). I was thinking it might be worthwhile to hire someone to service it - clean it out, make sure it works, etc. And, to show me how it works - of course, like many others, I do not have a manual. I don't even know how to turn it on, light it or use it. There are actually some pellets still in the top - I guess that is the hopper. And there is a lot of ash at the bottom when I open the front door. Those of you who recommend vacuuming, do you use a shop vac or just a regular home vac?
Any advice to get going? It is snowing today and it is bound to get colder soon, and it is the only source of heat in the family room - the main room I use for tv, work, and just lounging about.
I appreciate all advice.
Nancy
 
If you are going to use a vacuum - please do NOT use a household vacuum. The filter is not good enough to trap the fine ash from a pellet stove.
A shop-vac type is a much better choice but you must use the filter bags marked for drywall dust and other fine particles.
Regarding your particular unit, I have no knowledge of that brand.
 
fancynan said:
Hi,
Is anyone still monitoring this thread? i recently bought a home that has a Trailblazer pellet stove. I know absolutely NOTHING about these stoves (my first house). I was thinking it might be worthwhile to hire someone to service it - clean it out, make sure it works, etc. And, to show me how it works - of course, like many others, I do not have a manual. I don't even know how to turn it on, light it or use it. There are actually some pellets still in the top - I guess that is the hopper. And there is a lot of ash at the bottom when I open the front door. Those of you who recommend vacuuming, do you use a shop vac or just a regular home vac?
Any advice to get going? It is snowing today and it is bound to get colder soon, and it is the only source of heat in the family room - the main room I use for tv, work, and just lounging about.
I appreciate all advice.
Nancy

Fancynan... The best way to get some help or info on your unit is to start a Nee Thread. Click on New Topic up top, and then fill in the subject line. Then basically type what you typed here.

Hope you get what your looking for. I do know these units are a "Positive Pressure" stove. Which can/may be a little more dangerous if you have a bad gasket or leak somewhere.

A Shop vac works fine. Just make sure you have a HEPA filter in ot and possibly a Fine filtration bag inside (for drywall dust) . Othereise you will have a very dusty room on your hands.
 
Wilbilt

The best way to finish off a good cleaning is to attach a leaf blowers suction port to the stoves chimney outlet and with the stove door open to allow plenty of air to enter run the leaf blower wide loose.

This will suck out all the nasty crud in the chimney and the stove.

If you find the need for parts, most pellet stove auger motors are a 1 RPM unit and can be had from Graingers supply house.

A timer control system can be put together easily from off the shelf parts so that if the control board goes away, your stove need not become a flower pot.

The timers can be purchased through Precision Timer company.

A 120V 10 amp model 646 can be used as the main auger control and a model 644 one shot can be used to do the start-up sequence.

Blowers are available from several suppliers too that can be readily adapted to most any pellet stove.

Back in the "OLD DAYS" the stove makers used off the shelf stuff for the most part.

Not until the 90's did the manuf's start outsourcing their controls over seas.

The basic safeties are all useable and must be retained in the stove.

Fabricating a new control panel is about all that's needed and then adding the heat control pot to control the timers.
A master on switch along with a fuse holder assembly, reset button and a start button to initiate the start-up cycle.

The fan/s can be controlled with a standard TRIAC that's used to control a ceiling fan.

With many of these older Pellet stoves the controls give up and then the stove becomes a Garage ornament or worse.

I have seen stoves that were in very very good condition mechanically and structurally taken to the scrap heap due to the fact that the controller had failed and a new one was no longer available.

Far too many of these great old work horses are disposed of every year due to the lack of original spare parts.

Many items such as the auger motor and fans can be readily adapted from other units and or by using universal parts.

My Two 90's Vintage whitfields have been retrofitted with my own controls.

The factory safeties and some additional ones have been added.

These two old beats just do a great job and will likely last 20 more years, maybe longer.

The practice by the manuf's of using a proprietary control board was a major cost savings for them, not the end user.

In the old days, you could scare up the solid state relays and have a stove up and going in a jiffy, for a very low cost.

The two relays I mentioned earlier can be had for about $100 and these things are very robust and unless hooked up to a dead short without a fuse, can work for decades without a hitch.

Good old back woods engineering can save these fine old stoves from the scrap heap.

My two Whit's came to me for $200 each.

They are loved a lot.

Snowy
 
Can anyone tell me what the hopper capacity is for a Trailblazer 1600PS? Any experts out there care to give an opinion on this stove’s quality? I’m not too concerned about the control board, blowers and switches thanks to Snowey's input here (great info Snowey!), but otherwise?
Thanks!
 
Some oldies I saw last year....

Scott pellet stoves, 91-94 Alberta Canada
Alltair, USA 94-95 ish, self cleaning rakers and only about 1500 ever made
Pellet King not sure when they were made but USA
Frost King, Pellet Master, Traeger (Earth Stove), Waterford, Whitfield (obviously), Trailblazer, Vermont Castings "Un-Reliant",
 
Ok so I know I am jumping on this way late.Someone sent me pics of manual and I have converetd to PDF because so many people have helped me along the way I need to pay back some how. As far as excessive smoke goes- I suggest moving that handle back and forth (lookes like some sort of tube coming down from top of inside of stove) I did that and it sumped a lot of ash and solved the smoke issue immediately. Of course my wife is mad because we all have black lung disease and that was stupid easy fix. Hahahahaha!!!! If you need a copy of manual email me and I will send it to you in either word format or PDF.
 
Ok so I know I am jumping on this way late.Someone sent me pics of manual and I have converetd to PDF because so many people have helped me along the way I need to pay back some how. As far as excessive smoke goes- I suggest moving that handle back and forth (lookes like some sort of tube coming down from top of inside of stove) I did that and it sumped a lot of ash and solved the smoke issue immediately. Of course my wife is mad because we all have black lung disease and that was stupid easy fix. Hahahahaha!!!! If you need a copy of manual email me and I will send it to you in either word format or PDF.
You could just upload the manual to this thread so people will have access to it without having to email you.
 
I tried to and it said file was too large. I tried to make file smaller and it still said to big. believe me I would rather go that route. If you have an idea I am open to it. I have nothing to gain except to help that is all.
 
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