Felling wedges. What to look for?

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Kenster

Minister of Fire
Jan 10, 2010
1,705
Texas- West of Houston
I'm convinced that I need some felling wedges. I see a variety of styles, sizes, barb/barbless. Should I get a variety of sizes? I am thinking that a six pack of the same wedge would be useful when you need to put more than one in the same back cut. I could use some advise here.

I know they sell them at Baileys. eBay has a good selection, too. One guy has a case of 5.5 inch wedges. 60 count for $175 including shipping. That's $2.92 each. Wonder if I could resell 'em and make a little profit....
 
5.5 are good for most tree's. When you get into the larger tree you need bigger wedges.
 
I make my own from dry Hickory & Hophornbeam. Less than 5 minutes each for pennies including spray paint.
 

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I've also seen them at harbor freight.. I would think it would be ok. Pat
 
Northern Tool has them locally I noticed.Only a couple sizes with 1 style & handful of each.Arent cheap as Bailey's or TreeStuff.com.
 
Thistle said:
I make my own from dry Hickory & Hophornbeam. Less than 5 minutes each for pennies including spray paint.
AHA! I love this idea! Any tips for making these?
 
Agent said:
Thistle said:
I make my own from dry Hickory & Hophornbeam. Less than 5 minutes each for pennies including spray paint.
AHA! I love this idea! Any tips for making these?

Bandsaw is quickest & easiest way I know of.Years ago I used hatchet,drawknife & spokeshave but thats quite slow & when grain isnt straight it can be a problem shaping it. Is a nice way to spend a cold winter evening though (if your shop is heated lol),very relaxing making shavings.Great kindling too.

I've even roughed out in the past some large 'gluts' with chainsaw from Elm & gnarly White Oak.They would get quite battered quickly & would be tossed in the fire sooner than smaller wedges.
 
I bought three at HD a few weeks ago for three dollars and change each.

First ones I have ever owned.
 
variabLEE said:
Stick with steel till you better your felling technique. You'll turn those plastic into mushrooms pounding all the way to Hong Kong!
I don't think that I'm all that warm to the idea of using a splitting wedge around a chainsaw chain . Plastic is just better as a falling wedge.
 
Nixon said:
variabLEE said:
Stick with steel till you better your felling technique. You'll turn those plastic into mushrooms pounding all the way to Hong Kong!
I don't think that I'm all that warm to the idea of using a splitting wedge around a chainsaw chain . Plastic is just better as a falling wedge.
He wont have plastic wedges if he repeats his last felling episode. He'll have mushrooms.
 
I've got three Stihl ones, they will last forever. Well, two of them will. I whack one into the top of a cut when I'm bucking a big log on the ground. It often falls down onto the saw and goes shooting into the brush. The narrow edge of it is a little worn, but still usable.
 
variabLEE said:
Nixon said:
variabLEE said:
Stick with steel till you better your felling technique. You'll turn those plastic into mushrooms pounding all the way to Hong Kong!
I don't think that I'm all that warm to the idea of using a splitting wedge around a chainsaw chain . Plastic is just better as a falling wedge.
He wont have plastic wedges if he repeats his last felling episode. He'll have mushrooms.


Lee, thank you for your continuous votes of confidence. Merry Christmas, my friend.
 
Danno77 said:
I've got three Stihl ones, they will last forever. Well, two of them will. I whack one into the top of a cut when I'm bucking a big log on the ground. It often falls down onto the saw and goes shooting into the brush. The narrow edge of it is a little worn, but still usable.

Never been pinched by the log itself. Once in a while a limb will give me a problem when I have my butt around my head! :lol: Not sure if a wedge would help for that problem. ;-)

Gary
 
Danno77 said:
It often falls down onto the saw and goes shooting into the brush.

So THAT is the reason the ones at HD are bright yellow. Now I know.
 
Bailey's has several different brands of wedges. The WoodlandPRO brand wedges have worked well for me although I did break the tips off a couple of them.

Bailey's Wedges & Accessories
 
I use the plastic ones. Normal use is the wedge cut, then a plunge cut from the wedge into the center of the trunk to exit on the back side. This leaves strong support on the sides of the trunk to prevent any fall. Drive in a wedge on the back side into the new exit cut, continue the cuts into the sides from the back side, drive the wedge in further to keep pressure on the trunk, fell the tree. Plastic is good because if the saw chain hits the wedge, no damage. Of course, many trees to be felled do not need any wedges at all.
 
I cut my own with my chainsaw. I cut a small gum, about 5" in diameter, leaving about a 3' stump.
Then i cut wedges right off the standing stump with vertical (VV) cuts. i can make about 10 or 12 in 5 minutes.
 
variabLEE said:
Nixon said:
variabLEE said:
Stick with steel till you better your felling technique. You'll turn those plastic into mushrooms pounding all the way to Hong Kong!
I don't think that I'm all that warm to the idea of using a splitting wedge around a chainsaw chain . Plastic is just better as a falling wedge.
He wont have plastic wedges if he repeats his last felling episode. He'll have mushrooms.
;-)
 
I made my own out of some pressure treated chunks I had left over . . . used my chop saw and table saw.
 
smokinjay said:
variabLEE said:
Nixon said:
variabLEE said:
Stick with steel till you better your felling technique. You'll turn those plastic into mushrooms pounding all the way to Hong Kong!
I don't think that I'm all that warm to the idea of using a splitting wedge around a chainsaw chain . Plastic is just better as a falling wedge.
He wont have plastic wedges if he repeats his last felling episode. He'll have mushrooms.
;-)

Ouch! Jay, you pickin' on me, too?
 
jebatty said:
I use the plastic ones. Normal use is the wedge cut, then a plunge cut from the wedge into the center of the trunk to exit on the back side. This leaves strong support on the sides of the trunk to prevent any fall. Drive in a wedge on the back side into the new exit cut, continue the cuts into the sides from the back side, drive the wedge in further to keep pressure on the trunk, fell the tree. Plastic is good because if the saw chain hits the wedge, no damage. Of course, many trees to be felled do not need any wedges at all.

This is done to have better control on the anticipated laning area? So doing this you won't be back cutting just above the hinge as usual?
 
I have 2 of small, medium, and large. Anything other than a small one is too big for small trees. When your in bigger tree's the large ones are perfect. I have needed 2 wedges on a few occasions. They are only a couple of bucks and are designed to be cut through, so if you get stuck, cut your way out through the wedge. A number of mine have battle scars with no harm to the chain. I have never seen one crushed or turned into a mushroom. Perhaps I don't have enough experience?

Wedges are cheap, chains are not, I would respectfully disagree with the other poster about steel wedges.
 
muncybob said:
jebatty said:
I use the plastic ones. Normal use is the wedge cut, then a plunge cut from the wedge into the center of the trunk to exit on the back side. This leaves strong support on the sides of the trunk to prevent any fall. Drive in a wedge on the back side into the new exit cut, continue the cuts into the sides from the back side, drive the wedge in further to keep pressure on the trunk, fell the tree. Plastic is good because if the saw chain hits the wedge, no damage. Of course, many trees to be felled do not need any wedges at all.

This is done to have better control on the anticipated laning area? So doing this you won't be back cutting just above the hinge as usual?
That method is used on smaller diameter trees so that a wedge can be inserted without the saw bar being in the back cut. Essentially your making a cut through through the center of the notch and tree out the back leaving large pie shaped "ears" as a hinge. The wedge is inserted through the bar width plunge cut on the back side and the "ears" are cut to the hinge point. This allows the wedge to travel all the way through the hinge on trees that have excessive back lean. The use of this cut is not recommended for amateurs with no experience plunge cutting as it real easy to cut off the hinge.
 
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