Too much air coming in

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carters09

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 21, 2010
13
Nova Scotia, CA
Hi there. I seem to be having the opposite problem to most people on the forums -I am getting too much air during my wood stove burn! This is the fourth winter I've been in my house, and I have a Pacific Energy Super 27 stove. Over the years I've been here it seems to be getting worse at burning - or rather, it seems to be getting too good.

I never have a problem starting a fire as there is lots of draft. However, even on the lowest setting of the air control, I have a serious burn going. I know the air control lever is moving because I can hear it, and because on "fully open" the fire is like a raging inferno... but when it should be "shut" there is still way too much oxygen getting in. If I cram the fire box with wood at night, I get about 3hrs out of it before it's totally burned out.

It's nice that the fire pumps out some heat... but it sucks to have to get up once or twice in the night to stoke the stove, and it uses way more wood than it should (hardwood).

I am a newbie with stoves and therefore don't really know a) what the problem could be and b) whether it's something fixable or something that is $$$ and I should just enjoy the flames... any help appreciated!
 
I say you have a worn door gasket and air is being sucked in
 
How tall is your chimney? What kind of liner do you have? Would a damper help to slow the draft?
 
Sounds plausible... I believe the stove is about 7/8 years old and if the rest of the house is anything to go by, it probably never had any maintenance until now... is this something I can do myself with decent instructions?
 
Remkel, the stove is in the basement and so the pipe goes out the wall to the outside and then all the way up a split entry house, so maybe 4ft of chimney inside and two stories of house outside! Liner - no idea :-( Is a damper the same thing as the air shutter?
 
carters09 said:
Sounds plausible... I believe the stove is about 7/8 years old and if the rest of the house is anything to go by, it probably never had any maintenance until now... is this something I can do myself with decent instructions?
Click to expand...

yes, the door that gets used the most is at fault more likely. The hardest part is removing old gasket and cement
 
Like excavator says, the door gasket seems to get the most use and abuse, and it is very easy to see. I haven't replaced one but it seems pretty simple and cheap (under $10 for a gasket, I think). Another possibility is that the door is a little loose. I think the 'dollar bill test' is done by closing the door with a dollar bill halfway in (or is it halfway out?) and pulling. It should be hard to pull because the door and gasket are so tight. You repeat the whole way around the door opening to check for a good seal. Someone please correct me if I am wrong about the doolar bill test. Also, somebody please clarify if canadian dollars can be used.
 
Wood Duck said:
Also, somebody please clarify if canadian dollars can be used.
Click to expand...

I don't think this one can...
Too much air coming in
 
I would start with the door gasket first (cheap and easy). The damper would go into the flue pipe to help reduce the draft up the chimney.

As for the Canadian Dollar- if that easily comes out from the gasket seal, I would say you definitely need to replace the gasket :)
 
I just went over to the wood stove, opened the door, poked the gasket with my finger to see how thick it was... and it fell off. I think the dollar might not be needed! :)
 
LOL yep air being sucked in there
 
If the gasket is still in good shape, just re-glue it back. Then use a five dollar bill to test the seal. Unless you have access to foreign currency in smaller denominations.
 
After 7-8 years, I wouldn't bother with the old gasket. You can get a gasket from Wallyworld, HD, Lowe's, Ace hardware, etc......... I just bought one at TSC for 9.99 + tax a few days ago.
Pull it out/off of there, clean where the gasket goes, then put the new one on the way the old one was on there. Should be pretty easy. The directions usually tell you to dampen/moisten the channel before applying the adhesive. You can do it.
Let us know if that helps.
 
Just curious, for when the time comes ... are gaskets generic in nature ? i.e. they are not specifically an OEM part that one would need to order. Presumably they come in standard lengths that you simply cut to size based on your needs - is that correct ?
 
I just bought and installed a gasket from Home Hardware - $14.99 for the gasket and some cement. It's drying as I type. Will fire it up tomorrow and report back... Considering how much harder it was to shut the door than before, I'd say the old gasket had been toast for a while!

I'm sure I have a US dollar bill somewhere to test with... :)
 
For others, when getting the old gasket out, I like to use a small wire brush that fits into a drill. After pulling out old gasket, a quick go-around with the wire brush and it is all set for the new gasket.
 
Well the new gasket is installed, the fire is a little harder to get going and a little smokier when it does get going... but not much difference on the lowest air setting :-( Still burns quickly with lots of oxygen. I am thinking maybe a damper would be the way to go...
 
check all gaskets like the ash pan door and check for debris in ash door bottom area
 
carters09 said:
Well the new gasket is installed, the fire is a little harder to get going and a little smokier when it does get going... but not much difference on the lowest air setting :-( Still burns quickly with lots of oxygen. I am thinking maybe a damper would be the way to go...
Click to expand...

I would check the firebox for any cracked welds or steel. The areas prone to cracking are around the door rim and the internal welds. The 2005 to 2006 PEs have been known to have this problem. My 2005 Pacific insert did crack and was running hot at the lowest air control setting. Use a bright light and inspect. Any cracking to the external structure of the firebox could be letting in unwanted oxygen.
 
carters09 said:
My stove model doesn't have an ash pan... :-(
Click to expand...

That actually is a good thing. One less entry point to worry about.
 
Maybe check the linkage going back to the secondary air inlet, and make sure it is till connected and working. If that is broken for some reason, the secondary air inlet may be staying fully open.
 
If you do end up having trouble getting all the old gasket and cement out a dremel is a big help. I inherited my stove from a PO who was the "if some is good more is better" type and used waaaaay too much cement on all the gaskets. I got tired of chiseling out the cement and just used a dremel with a cone shaped grinding wheel bit. Works wonders.

Make sure to get that gasket channel completely cleaned out and smooth so the new gasket sits level and provides a uniform mating surface to the door. You may also need to readjust any adjustable latches fora tight fit. When its so tight you almost rip the bill you have it right :)
 
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