Hearthstone Equinox

blacktop37 said:

woodmiser said:

doug60 said:

Could you give a quick run down on removing the baffle & tubes?
I stuck my head in there & could not see how it comes apart to change the baffle.
thanks ,doug

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The baffle comes out by removing the cotter pins that go through the secondary tubes. There are two cotter pins. On the top side, through the flue you can access the small steel plate that the cotter pins go through.
Once the pins are removed, the baffle will come out from between the tubes. If the baffle is being replaced dont worry about breaking it. The new baffle goes in and up between the tubes. New baffles come with new cotter pins and the plate.

If you see cement on the old baffle don't worry about it. That was put there for shipping purposes only. You do not need any cement with a new baffle.

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Hi Wood m., My EQ vents straight out the back to a "T". Do you have to have access to the top of the burn plate to get it out? It will be a lot of work for me to remove the pipe as I would have to move stove forward. Could you reinstall plate without pins holding it in for future cleaning? Thanks!

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Why not pull the cap off the top outlet and go in from there?

Just courious, how do you clean the connector if you can't disconnect the stove?

When I built my house I built a masonary chimney with a cleanout on ground level right at the T. I can clean from the ground to the top and I can go vertical to the stove from outside to the inside the house. This has worked very well for 25 years most with a smoke dragon BK. The new install with 8" liner has preformed perfect and I can clean everything except on top of baffel. the installer put on a double wall connecter that we had to back the stove to the connecter. Would be a lot of work to get plate off. I put a camera in the top and some creasote but not bad. I figure somday I will have to clean it. Nothing from the chimney ever gets in the area.

FireWalker said:

well built home said:

FW , I think i must have a problem inside the stove .
There isn't a flue problem so I want to going to raise my ch 3/4' to clear my ridge line a bit more and get a new top .
My old ch top looks bent up ?
The roof is a 17 on 12 so its a pain getting up there .
I was in the stove tonight and it looks ok but i'm going to take it apart and re install the
baffle and tubes .
I did cut up a bunch of oak flooring 1x3 and filled the stove about 1/2 full and let it rip .
I did see 500 + stove top temps running with closed damper and 3/8 air setting open
but if i close the air down to 1/8 to closed the temp drops to 250 /300 and the fire just smolders .
I have a wood shed in the works for next year .
my wood is damp on the out side ( kept under a tarp ) but i think it drys in a few hours in the house .
I hope the wood shed doesn't need to hold 7 cord i don't have room for that next to the house .
John

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O.K., the pipe is good. The building code tells us 2 feet above anything 10 feet away and you have a very steep roof. Do you meet the building code?

Something seems fishy with your air control, my stove with a half load of flooring would be a real good fire with pipe damper closed and air shut off. This pipe damper you have installed, does it allow any blow-by........are there holes cast in the butterfly to allow some smoke through? Did you make it or buy it? The damper I bought is cast iron and has two nickle size holes in it so when it's closed you still have some flow.

Next time, leave the damper open and run a load scrap flooring with the air supply full open until the fire is going good and then shut the air off, don't touch the pipe damper, leave it open. This experiment will tell us if your air supply mechanism is working correctly. If you burn floor scraps and snuff the fire with the air shut and your pipe damper is open, you have a draft problem.

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FW No I'm not 2' @ 10 feet . My pipe exits 5' from the ridge and is 6 " above the ridge + the top .
The chimney is 40+ feet in the air so no one ever really looked at it .
Chimney sweep wont even go up .

Even in hi wind I get no smoke in or puffing in the house .
If my flue is warm the draft will suck tissue up the flue?
My damper is cast with 2 hols the size of silver dollars .

If i burn with out the damper I don't get above 300o with any air setting .
I don't really ever get flame from the tubes only short bursts 5 or 6 " of flame at a time.
and only if there are logs burning .
Once the wood is all in flamed i see dancing flame between the tubes and the top of the wood .

I had a HS 1 years ago and it would get hot and the fire would last longer because the fire box was much taller and i could stack
4 /5 12" logs n/s
This was much easier because there was less splitting .
I broke down a bought a electric heater for the living room and plug it in 10 feet from the stove .
(Bummer) John